greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I should have kept my posts up but here it is, FALL and I have only, as of today have about 20 passes on the new 548 cid. I know, some have it worse, waay worse and I am thankful I`m not in those shoes.
Surprise is the easy way to sum it up. I recall hoping for 9.40`s on motor in nitrous trim, wow was I wrong, I did get a slew of 9teens and a couple of of 9 oh`s ( 9.03/150/xx) on C12. Tried the Q16 since the carb was built for it, no better but no worse either.
Broke a Isky redzone lifter 9 passes in, took out a piston, and needed to have the cam repaired, new rod bearings, oil pump. Found out .010 is too close for head gasket bore to actual cylinder bore, so we needed to get new cometic gaskets with more bore so that the comp rings would not seperate from the gasket body. Isky rebuilt the 9 pass old lifters with thier bushings which are good to 1300# of spring pressure vs. the 1000# the needle type are rated at.
The rebuilt new motor ran just as before so we went out with the plate at 150hp, and found quickly that the rear gear (4.10) was too steep with any nitrous now. Found a local guy with a 35 spline used pro gear (3.89) and had it dropped in. The car responded by not loosing anything in the 60/330 or 1/8 and picked up every where beyond the 1/8/ (1000` foot mph up by 2 mph)
So today we went out to the top of the thumb in MI to try out some tune ups and see if it would take more than a 150. Nothing broke and the car ran well, the track was a TNT day so it was sub par and the car spun at times down track but we did find out alot of info that will help with next year.
Have a video that has 3 different views, check it out..... I know theres alot on the table still and I think it is going to require some drastic changes to get it

btw I need a 3rd gen.org sticker!!

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

...
Dayam!! Sweet ride greeze!!

AlkyIROC

I want your tach. Nice incorporation of the park brake handle for the chute release. The external camera mount doesn't like those 150+ mph passes

Well you're doing better than I am this year. After spending all winter, spring and part of summer putting together a new engine, I finally get to the track in mid September to make 2 partial passes before calling it a season because I put the car on the bumper and can't get it all back together before the last race. I'm also thinking that the extra power I'm making, my 4.86 gears may be too deep. Won't really know until I can make a full pass.

From the look of some of the TGO cars that are starting to make big power, the 2013 season should be very interesting.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Nice passes, eventually that two dial controller will not help you when you step the power up. The NOS Launcher has helped me by leaps and bounds. Easy 7 second car.

87_TA

Damn!! Great pass! 157!!!
That rear view really puts it into perspective..

86iroc2try

Way to go man....i would hope the 540 would go that fast. Keep it up...a gorgeous car!!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

wow, scott, that thing is really moving now! glad to see someone is wearing their gloves! (though i noticed it looked like you have tennis shoes on, lol). i like that on-the-roof-looking-back perspective too!

was that tire spin about 100' out that we created the smoke?

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Thanks guys! I was really impressed on how the car responded on motor, the bottle has been good up until I tried going bigger than 150 worth, just spins on the launch or the gear change with anymore plus the converter just doesn't drop enough on the gear change. can`t say I`ve looked everywhere to cure that yet but we have done all the basics except change the tires which are definitely in order. Alky- that was a ebay tach I bought when I re-did the dash, probably 5-6 years ago. I never get to actually see it work so thats why I did the camera there..converter guy needed some info and my data logger is not in the budget just yet. that old park brake handle works great, one of the only reasons I still have the console. I seen the carnage from your big wheelie, I got nothing but sympathy for you on that, you`ve had it rough.

1Bad I got a PM for ya! 87TA..your last post with the vega video is what made me decide to throw some cameras on that thing before the year is out!, MW...I`m not really sure what the smoke is. I did have evac`s to the headers for most of the year, I just dropped a vac pump set up on it so I know it`s not crankcase now but normally on motor by the end of the pass I was getting a good haze that would obscure the car from the vid camera if it were on the start line, it wont do it everytime either. I was also running 7qts and having oil pressure issues at the stripe, have 8 in it now and its much better as far as oil pressure. I think, I mean I want to think that it`s tire spin, but no concrete on it just yet because I know it`s not spinning at the `1000 foot mark when it`s smoking.

AlkyIROC

I looked up the info on that tach. I like the 2 stage number system but it doesn't have a playback feature. I like being able to play back an entire run on the tach to see launch rpm, peak numbers and where it falls back to. You must have a very loose converter because I see your rpms are only dropping back to 7000. Changing the diff ratio will change how the converter reacts so only change one at a time to see what it will do. Gears will be easier and cheaper than a new converter.

As for your oil, at 7000+ all the way down the track, that oil is getting pushed to the top of the engine really fast. Good quick drainback to the sump will help. I won't run lifter valley screens any more because I want that oil back in the pan as fast as possible even if it means creating some windage. A regular pressure oil pump will also help. A high volume pump can empty the pan faster than the oil can return. You can use the high pressure spring just don't use the high volume pump.

A vacuum pump is nice. I drain my puke tank after every pass. Nice to know the condensation isn't staying in the oil. I only use one shim in the vacuum relief. I don't want to pull the crankcase into a deep vacuum. Just enough to get condensation out.

I use a sportsman pump from these guys. http://www.gzmotorsports.com/ It looks just like a Ford smog pump.

Shagwell

Oil drain back(lack there of) in a BBC is a definite issue. We found several years back that a pair of -8 lines tapped into the back of the heads & run down to the pan makes a BIG difference in oil control.

Heads are drilled/tapped for a 3/8" npt -




90* fittings screwed into heads, 3/8npt x -8 AN/JIC


-8 push-lok hose assemblies run down to bulk head fittings in the pan



We had always had that smoke haze on the big end, and always had a signifigant drop in oil pressure during shut-down. The drain backs cured both those conditions and as a bonus we picked up another 5-10psi of oil pressure going through the traps.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

wow, cool idea!

AlkyIROC

I also may consider that before the engine goes back in. Not a lot of room between the head and the firewall on my car.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Good passes man! Very stout motor. Cubes are a racers friend!

Shagwell

Thanks.

We had always had a bit of a smoke haze out the exhaust in high gear, and always had a big pressure drop during shut-down. With the blower motor it got to where it would drop to 0 for 6-8 seconds during shut-down and we were seeing some issues with bearing life.

I started thinking about it and realized that a tall BBC valve cover can easily hold 4 quarts in each head, compounding that we run loose clearances & heavy weight oil. Even more so, on alky we had always run w/o valve seals, and we were turning that combo north of 10k. - Got me to thinking that the oil was likely getting up top and staying there too long. We added those two drain backs and no more high gear smoke, picked up around 8psi going through the lights, and it never drops below 20 during shut-down.

Alky - My camaro is stock firewall/front suspension with block & mid plates. Might take a little "persuasion" with a ball-pean hammer for clearance but personally I'll never run another BBC w/o them. I've seriously debated adding two up front & T'ing the front & rears together at the pan, thus to further help during shut-down.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Those are great Ideas, I have heard of the modification but that is the first time I`ve actually seen it done. Thanks for posting that and I`m really curious now if that slight haze or smoke is possibly caused by this condition.
I believe I have seals on all my valves so I know that a direct path should not be available..only one way to find out I guess and that's to try it, even if I only get a 50% return on one or both problems would be better than what is happening right now.

AlkyIROC

I don't run valve seals. With triple springs, there's always a chance of catching the seal with the close tolerance. Since a drag engine isn't a high mileage engine, valve seals are usually not going to be an issue. My valves and guides are new so it will be a long time before a guide leak will happen.

Your blower engine will have it's own set of issues. I'm sure blow by past the rings creates more crankcase pressure than a NA car will and the drainback hoses will really help. A vacuum pump will make a big improvement to that.

Now that I run shaft rockers, I don't need the extra tall valve covers but the area under the covers will still hold a lot of oil. The openings back into the lifter valley are large but you can only gravity feed so much oil back to the pan. Those hoses just give it a shortcut especially when the oil is being forced to the back of the head when accelerating. The more I look at the pictures, the more I'm deciding to go that route. I think I already have all the lines and fittings I'll need except for the pan bulkhead fittings. Nothing fancy is required since it's all low to zero pressure oil.

Shagwell

If you've got any sort of -8 male AN/JIC adapters made out of steel you can just cut the end off you need & weld it to the pan. - That's what I did on my last two.

We have seen similar oil control results on the NA & nitrous motor as we did on the blown combo. - I would love to step up to having a vacuum pump but it just hasn't been in the budget. I pull all 8 plugs every single pass, so we keep a pretty good eye on what's going on inside the chambers.

On the nitrous motor I went back to running valve seals. With nitrous being an oxidizer, any oil introduced into the chamber makes for one heck of a piston plasma-cutter.

AlkyIROC

Those fittings are cheap and easy to get. Would be a lot cheaper than buying 2 bulkhead fittings.

Shagwell

I manage a hydrualic hose/fittings/industrial rubber products store, thus steel fittings are very easy to get for me.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

It was easy for me to just weld in a npt bung and then screw in any an to npt fitting i wanted into my pan for oil drains on my turbo car. Could be used for oul drain from valve cover or vacuum pump fitting perhaps

AlkyIROC

I finally went and took a look at my heads. What would be the rear drain on the driver side head could use some help. It only drains through what looks like a 5/8" hole through the head. Under acceleration, the back of the drivers head could easily fill with oil faster than it could drain.

One the passenger side however, the drainback area is huge and wouldn't have any restriction getting the oil out from the top of the head.

Based on my heads, a logical hose position would be on the right hand end of both heads. I don't swap my heads from side to side. They're marked so they always go back on the proper side.

With a drain hose on the right side, it would be at the back of the driver side head to allow extra drainback on acceleration and at the front of the passenger head to allow extra drainback during deceleration.

I'm now contemplating on if it would really be worth it for my car. It looks like a single hose on the driver's head would be all I need.

AlkyIROC

Well I read those threads on YB and found another on a boating forum. Maybe I will put them in both heads. I guess any direct path back to the pan is better than letting all the oil drain back into the lifter valley before getting into the pan.

I'm going to see if I can modify the corner to put the fitting right there instead of down and inward from the cover rail like in your picture. Mine has a similar casting on the ends. Dart 360 heads.

Shagwell

IIRC ours is a little further towards the outside on the Darts than what the above pictured Brodie's would easily allow, but with either head you could grind the accessory bolt location off & move the drain to the corner, provided you keep the heads on the same side such as you noted.

AlkyIROC

I finally got my heads mounted on the block and installed the rear drain hoses similar to those above pictures. I welded some fittings into the pan right beside the #3 mains so the returning oil stays away from the crank and rods. I'll take pictures and start a new thread tomorrow. With the engine sitting on the stand, it looks like the positioning of the fittings in the heads will work perfectly.