gonna give this stuff a try this summer.





JP, Diggler, Steve, Craig, you guys win, and i'll be pulling info from you as much as possible, if i haven't already. the hardware is in the car, but i still need to re-wire and get my rpm window switch in the car. i also still need to buy a bottle heater. does anyone have on that they like over another style?

 

Good luck!, I was wondering what type of bracket are you using for your power steering pump?

 

stock 98-02 fbody bracket

 

Thanks for the quick response.

 

Cool! Any idea what shot youre planning to run? Also, what system is that?

 

it's a performer rpm kit, and right now it's jetted 61n/55f and that should be ~125

 

that stuff is like crack!!!!!!!!

 

I ate up over ten mother bottles last summer...stuff is sure addicting. You'll have a great time using it. It also helps expose the weak points in the car.

 

indeed, it is like crack. i am running the same type cell in the same spot. 1st time you hit it off the tbrake at the track you wont believe it.... honestly, you might want to put a 75 in there for the first pass. lol

 

these are the smallest jets i have...and it'll be off the clutch, not the tbrake

 

**** is right, it is like crack for sure.

Matt, just let me know when you need some help. But I'm sure you got it on raps. Please use non-projected plugs bro.

 

plan to use a br7es. not sure if i'll get to spray it before we try to move....i won't spray till may since i promised Kristin i wouldn't till i graduate

 

sweet!!! id look into the 3000psi nano system over the bottle heater. get more runs out of the bottle!!!

 

not right now...need to keep this as simple as possible for the moment

 

A regular heater will do you fine with small hits. I'd also move your plate under the spacer so you don't limit the spray pattern to each cylinder. The plate pattern should fan out, but I have seen some shoot straight down to the base of the plenum which is a little undesirable.

 

hmm...the nitrous guys on YB (steve and monty) say that in the case of an open spacer, it doesn't matter which side it's on...

 

dang, forgot you swapped trannys! should be a ton of fun either way.... how/when are you going to activate it? i ran my ls1 car with a wot switch and window of ~3800-6000 or something like that. was just a stock motor and i ran it on street tires back then. did pretty decent like that, i just kinda left like normal and once it got up to 3800 the nitrous came on.

 

toggle to activate system, then WOT switch and a window switch. thought about wiring the clutch switch in too, but that just seems redundant.

 

Spray pattern of a plate makes little to no difference, other than atomization between the fuel & nitrous. - It's a "common" plenum, each cylinder pulls from it.

As Monte, Steve, and many other experienced tuners have noted, there is some cylinder to cylinder "sharing" even with foggers, the job of a plate is simply to fog the plenum and allow each cylinder to pull from it. - I've seen lots of plates showing how they flow directed towards cylinders in an open atmosphere condition, but all of that is a complete wash when that plate is sitting on a running engine.

 

I beg to differ on that but if Steve and Monte say so it has to be the truth.

 

My $.02:

I would call Steve and ask him EXACTLY what you should have and where. He has gotten several lifetime-N/A guys setting nitrous records within a season or two.

Monte is a smart dude..but Id pick one and ask exactly what to have so nothing blows up. Lol

Good luck..thatll be awesome!! I have a 200 shot plate kit ready for later this season if I get brave.

 

Ever kill a valve, piston, etc and have some of the debris get into other cylinders? - If hard-parts can come out of one cylinder, go across the intake & get into another cylinder, how much do you really think you can control by directing fluid spray in the plenum with each cylinder's individual pulses sucking/blowing through the intake?

I was of the same train of thought as you for a long time, but those guys have shown on more than one occassion why it really doesn't matter. - Gotta remember, nitrous motors are still essentially "natrually aspirated" in the sense that each cylinder still has to draw it's own charge.

 

looks like some race car parts in those pics....should run really well. I'm guessing at least as good as the old motor combo too


As for me I'll leave that going fast nitrous stuff to you guys

 

I can't wait to try it, but beyond that, I really can't wait till I get the 370 fixed...9's are about $1000 away

 

I agree with ****. On the intake stroke air/nitrous is rushing in the cylinder. When the valve closes all the air/nitrous still in the runner heading to the cylinder isn't going to stop at the valve and wait, not on a na motor anyway. It's going to bounce back into the plenum.

 

I must be one lucky sob to have built a 4.8x x275 car and not know wtf I'm doing. Ill just keep quiet and let the experts chime in even though the position of my spray bar cleaned up the no2 cylinder lean condition on my bbc contrary to what the experts say. I test things thoroughly and don't simply just bolt parts on like most.

 

oh, don't be like that man, i'm taking everyone's advice and experience under heavy consideration as i figure this out. i'd like to keep you on tap for this stuff too man.

 

where did you move the bar from and where did you move it to?

 

this is going to be a ton of fun on a hardtire....

 

if the tune is off yea it will be alot more than like crack, it will be a cracked head, or block, or crank, or pistons. But it will be fun! I am addicted allready!

 

Intake design, heads & cam. - If a spray bar direction change cleaned up your tune, I'd be willing to bet your NA distribution is far from ideal.


I was dumping over 3lbs in 5 seconds though a diffuser plate and cyl to cyl was spot-on, while a big shot plate with the spray patterns directed down the runners(big brodix single plane w/ "clover") had crap distribution.


Atomization is one of the biggest keys in a plate system, some do so better than others.

 

ok, please understand something guys, i'm discussing this on this board and not on YB because i want to keep the personalities and attitudes a bit at bay. please don't be a baby if someone doesn't agree with the way you're doing things. i want to hear what everyone has to say about it, and i'd love to read your experience, and results!

so here's my initial tune:

N/A timing: 35*
carb fp: 6.5#
timing pulled when nitrous is activated: 4*
nitrous fuel pressure: 5.5#
nitrous jet: 61
fuel jet: 55
plugs: BR7ES (gapped at what?)

this *should* be about a 125 shot. what does everyone think? (yes, i know that JP and steve have already given an opinion, if you guys could reiterate on here, that'd be awesome, so all my info is in one spot)

for the record, the combo is a 9.2:1 5.3 with an untouched bottom end. PRC stage 2.5 ls6 heads, 232/240@ .050 .595/.609 112+4. t56, monster stage 3, 4.11's and a 28" tire

 

Looks good Matt

 

All I post is my opinions, not at all argueing.

I'm a firm believer that there are several things going air-flow wise within a running engine that aren't totally understood or explainable. - I was just noting what Monte S. & Steve J. have about plate systems & how they work, and adding that thus far from my experience I have no reason to disagree.

1BADRZ28 has a solid performing car for sure, whatever he's doing is obviously working well for him.

 

looks good to me as well, but i think i would pull about 6 degrees instead of 4 the first time you hit it. im sure you figured this out at the track, but does it run the fastest n/a with 35 degrees? i figured it would like a little less than that, maybe 31-32ish? it is fairly low compression-wise though, so maybe that's affecting it.

 

Right now this is all a base tune that's in the motor. This one hasn't been to the track yet. I plan to leave the bottle home the first outing or too. The very first outing is actually a hardtire race. It will be tons of fun, but for data acquisition it'll be pretty much worthless, lol. I'm not taking the bottle for that one either. The 11.5:1 370 like 35* na too

 

Welcome to the dark side......

I would also pull 6 for the first pass. just to be safe. read plugs and go from there.


a little plug tip. bring a drill and a hacksaw. it makes cutting plugs a cinch

 

I was pulling 6* on my 150 shot. It will be fine on -4 I think, but 6 is safer. Get your shifting down at the track then get ready to shift faster on the dope. Probably a good thing you are hitting a 5.3 first instead of the 370 with the t56. It is like a row boat drag race on nitrous, but it sure is a blast.

 

And being where I have been, I would go straight to a 150, you may want to start at 100 then jump to 150.