My 2 runs:
R/T 1.284 .857
60 2.343 2.445
330 6.495 6.529
1/8 9.935 9.981
MPH 71.23 71.25
1000 13.093 12.938
1/4 15.738 15.441

I thought some pickup was going to toast me with all his stickers and wide tires. He did a massive burnout but I psyched him out at the lights.

This was my first time at the track and my first time launching in dry weather. I was hoping for 14's but oh well. Do you guys think 14's are possible?

------------------
'90 Red Formula Firebird
305 TPI 5-speed UBC Sports Car Club

[This message has been edited by CheezX (edited July 14, 2001).]

 

CheezX

That is a respectable time, especially considering it was your first race. Im not sure what mods you have if any so to postulate breaking into the 14's is difficult. I heard keeping a bag of ice on your plenum between rounds helps Was traction a problem ? what was the temp outside ?

I did 2 runs at SIR, with a smelly R/T of 1.480 I ran a 15.839 at 87.38. There was a few things I could have done to take some time off, like let a midget drive my car and dont fill up the tank next time

Don

------------------
1985 T/A WS6
Recaro Seats
58,000 smiles
TPI T-Tops
3:27 Posi
My Ride

 

What have you done to your engine? Yes, I think you should be able to break into the 14s.

An intersting point, your 60' times were better in the first run than the second run, which was .3 seconds quicker. Was this a typo or what were you doing differently between both runs?

Also, do you have a scan tool that can capture data? It is nice to have one while you are dragging. They can often show something (like knock) which might be hurting you. Getting your maximum EFFECTIVE total spark is key to getting good performance. Around 28-30* Sark Advance gives the best results (after you deduct knock).

The problem with the stock eprom/knock sensor settings is that you can have your car's timing to give 36* Spark Advance @ WOT @ high rpms, but the knock retard can kill that to 24*.

Also, mixture is key.

 

Hi Glen,

Even with premium and octane booster, my car still knocks. It might be as simple as retarding my timing. Im going broke buying gas, Ive tried Cheveron and Unocal both.
Its a slight ping under hard accel.

I have the 1985 Firebird service manual, I guess I should open it up and look at it

Should I try the paper clip method or buy a scanner to run ECM diags.? Is there a site anywhere to decipher the blinks of the Ck Eng Lite ?

Thanks,

Don

 

Right now my current mods are TB-mounted K&N with holes cut under the louvers in a TA hood and a ported plenum.
I had about 10 liters of 87 octane gas and I didn't check the timing it's probably 6 BTDC.
Coolant temp was a bit over 100 C and outside temp was around 25-28 C.

The first run I missed the shift to 4th right at the end. And I tried different shift points. I figure that my MPH could be better because the 2nd time I was shifting at 5500 which = 89.48 MPH in 3rd. I had to left off the gas right in the traps. Next time I'll have to go to 4th to get any faster. Would shifting around 5000-5100 be better?

I didn't even come close to spin the tires I was too busy concentrating on the lights. I just realized that the 330 ft is equal to 100 m which I've done before with the UBC club. I was able to get a 6.4 in the rain so I think I could launch way faster.

I don't have a scan tool, I'm going to try making a laptop cable. I'm just waiting for my sample MAX232s.

 

if want to get in the 14's you will need 92 octane or better and other things.Try a full tank of 92 octane you will notice a difference

------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
Lubricated by Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic

 

Those open K&Ns that mount directly to the throttle body are horrible. They allow the engine to inhale all the hot air from right behind the rad. A high flowing cold air intake is what you need. That will help lots.

For gas, run Chevron or Mowhawk 94 octane. Every little bit helps when it comes to reducing knock. I have also found good results using the Racing formula NOS octane booster - available ar Lordco or Mopac for about 15 bucks. Good gas is a must either way.

You will also find some gains running a 180 degree thermostat with an adjustable fan control system. That in conjunction with bypassing the coolant flow to the throttle body will also make a difference. Ever tried to put your hand on the plenum after driving the car hard? well after these mods it stays cool. Really cool. Cold air is a must for power.

As for shift points, 4500 to 4800 RPM, NO MORE than 5000. TPI cars (in stock form)simply don't make any power up there, so anything much beyond 4800 is just a waste.

Good luck next time.


------------------
Karl Hunter
Hunter Motorsports
Vancouver, B.C. CANADA

 

I think I'm having a problem with knocking too. I'm running 92 octane and the exhaust has kind of raspy sound from it under acceleration and up hills. I'm also getting 12mpg. How do I tune this?

------------------
89 GTA - L98, Black on Black Leather, T-Tops

RIP: 87 Camaro Sport Coupe

 

Hmm.. Lots of stuff to do and none of it costs too much $$$$. I LIKE IT!

I'll have to borrow my friends G-tech and fix my lighter socket. Thanks for the help.