mypontiac

I have a 1991 TA 305 w/ 5 speed. I am going to be adding a hydraulic cam. Crane 2032.

What else could or should be changed with this swap???

I plan on adding the Pete Jackson Gear drives.

Thanks.

LIL QIK

iTrader: (1)

The 2032 isn't going to give you much of an increase over stock. It's just a factory replacement vette cam if I remember right. You also need to beware of using the Pete Jackson gear drive because the rumor is that it will set off the knock sensor which will in turn retard your timing when it doesnt' need to be. If you really want to go with a gear drive then you should probably look into a fixed idler gear. The pete jackson and most others use a floating idler gear which is supposed to be the problem with the knock sensor. I went with the Milidon on mine for the fixed gears. In all reality unless your getting just really wild with the engine I would stick with a double roller timing set. Something from Comp Cams or a brand name. Stay away from the Autozone double rollers.

Just trying to help.

mypontiac

Actually I am setting up my car similar to Willie's. I hope to add a ProCharger. He recommended the Pete Jackson set up as well as the cam.

I have currently opened up my exhaust with SLP headers ans 3" pipes. I am adding SLP intake runners and TPIS type big mouth base.

Please be advised that this will be a heavily moded 305. Not a 350.

I am interested in your recommendations for the timing chain. I have been advised to stay away from the double roller chain as well as it is supposed to activate the knock sensor. That is why I went with the gears.

Can you elaborate on your recommendations?

Thanks.

LIL QIK

iTrader: (1)

Well if Willie has recommended these things to you then they should be trust worthy recommendations.

As far as the double roller setting off the knock sensor, I can tell you from first hand experience that it's not true.

If Willie is recommending the Jackson gear drive, make sure that he is not running a DFI. You can program without a knock sensor. If you're planning on running a setup like Willie's then their is no better place to get the information from than the person that has done it. I wasn't aware of the future modifications planned which is why I said that about the cam.

IROCKZ4me

I haven't heard of anyone tracing a false knock problem to a double roller chain. Tat doesn't mean that it has never ever happened though. I have heard of people tracing false knock sensing to gear drive noise though and of it going away after swapping to a double roller chain.
I'm running a Cloyes true roller.

B4Ctom1

I have seen increased ESC spark cross counts on some timing set swaps. it sucks because increasing the base timing does nothing but pile up initial advance against the computer's retard of timing. I always see it on gear drives, but hardly on double rollers except when the wrong part # is used and the block has been align honed, but in these cases even a "stocker" set will be loose enough to get chain "slap" from the slack and cause retard. also a pete jackson grinder set can cause valvetrain harmonics that can cause (over the long term) some valvetrain damage, this is just one of the many reasons why so many racers are going to a belt (for its harmonic dampening properties). A 91 is best equiped due to its most advanced version of the knock sensor buffer, but it is not immune. Also 91 and 92 being speed density, a very close examination of crane and competition cams "computer freindly" roller cams (that utilize the stock roller lifters) should be done for a tried and true cam profile that will not blitz the computer's mapped vacuum expectations for the MAP sensor (I am doing this also).

mypontiac

Thanks B4CTOM1,

Looks like I will be using a double roller and go with Willie's recommended Crane Cam.

Any recommendations on the double roller for my 91' TA?

B4Ctom1

just make sure it is tight ( a regular should fit if the engine is original/untouched ). when you put on a timing set it only takes a sec to hook the chain on the lower sprocket and slip it on the end of the cam, but right up to the second you put it onto the end of the cam it kinda looks like it might not reach, and has very little play in the chain when its done. I prefer cloyes true roller.

IROCKZ4me

One thing I didn't think to mention in my reply above is that you might want to get a set of fresh valve springs while you're at it if you're still running the 11 year old originals. It wouldn't be a bad idea either to buy, bum, borrow, beg, steal, rent, lease or whatever, the use of a degree wheel, TDC indicator, and maybe a dial indicator, and if you don't know how, also the use of someone that does, to check/degree that cam as it's installed.

B4Ctom1

I definitely recommend the spring thing, good call. the ones on my 91 were so shot I could open the valve with three fingers pushing with less than a 100k on the odom. that would be a good recommendation to everyone on this board, CHANGE YOUR SPRINGS EVERYBODY!! quit wasting time with throttle bodys, runners, rockers, and such lets try the regular maintainace stuff too. I have been guilty myself I do admit.

mypontiac

Thanks for all of the great advise guys. Believe me, it will be used.

Got multiple parts already and just want to see what else is needed.

I will add the springs to the list.

You guys are the best!

mypontiac

By the way, do I need to change the valve spring retainers too? Guess it would seem a good thing to do, but if the originals are OK that would save $60 !!

Thanks.

IROCKZ4me

You don't neccisarily have to, unless they are damaged somehow, but there are some springs that are made slightly oversize and will fit on a stock spring pocket, but will not fit stock retainers. As long as the replacement springs are the same diameter as stock, there should be no problem reusing the stock retainers. Sometimes you can get special deals on spring/retainer/lock kits that are a good buy though.

mypontiac

Thanks IROC,

I when with the spring/retainer set for $100. Saved some $$ by buying them together as a set.

B4Ctom1

good move