I'm looking into Hi temp coatings for Headers/turboes etc. I just got off the Phone with a Company about getting a gallon to test with.

They said the H-Series(which is the only one avalible to small Companys like me) will hold upto 1600* The site says 1300
http://www.hpcoatings.com/h_series.htm

So my question again... How hot does a turbo actually get. If hoter then Im gona need to find a different COmpany and product to buy. The have Hier temp stuff the E-series but wont sale it to other companys.

Thanks
Chris@CEcoatings.com

 

definitely less that 1600F. 1400F is dangerously high for combustion temperatures so it will definitely be less. I'd say maybe 1200 max on long periods of full throttle on a well tuned engine.

 

Thanks.

 

anywhere around 1400-1800 would begin to melt the iron/steel of the headers, I'd imagine they are as hot as your exhaust headers which is probably a good amount higher than your engine temp, but not too much more.

 

no offense guys, but what are you basing it on?

Go to turbobuick.com and ask those guys what kinda EGT temps they get....that will help you out. I know on WOT blasts it gets pretty damn high

 

yeah what he said, it seems there is a confusion here over the kind of egt's that are dangerous to engines and the kind that are dangerous to headers. after turbo egt's of 1300-1400 are considered like real hot performance street car egt's. anything higher without alot of preparation and parts consideration (engine internals) or even doing it for a prolonged time will net evil meltdown destruction of the engine not the headers. egts before turbo can even be HIGHER, and even with sky high egt's the engine is what fails not the headers. especially the specialty headers found in applications where they knew they would be trying to smoke the motor each run in the name of 9 or 8 second runs, let alone faster. it wouldnt hurt to see the T-buick and DSM (mitsubishi imports turbo) sites either.

 

Im talking the Housing itself... I have a couple people who want me to coat the Turbos.

The guy I talke dto said This H-serices "SHOULD BE FINE" for small turbos.

This si what The site says...

It can withstand temperatures of -375° F to +1300° F (-225° C to 700° C)

H-Series coatings provide excellent heat retention on items such as exhaust manifolds and ducts, turbo housings, flame arresters and pipe. Inside diameters can be coated, thus enabling the coating to double its insulating properties, while eliminating thermal scale and oxidation build-up


I wa sjust wondering if anybody had real world temps they knew of. The guy at the company didnt really know. Like I said He said SHOULD be ok on small turbos. and is Deff. ok on headers.

If I was to do RACE CAR TURBOS as he put it. Id have to steup upto the E-series but they wont sale that to me.

Thanks
Chris

 

well, here is something may consider. I dont know anyone that guarranntees the coating on the exhaust housings. I know you can get that black stuff to make the headers last but i dont know if anyone guarrantees the exhaust housings. I know jet-hot wont

 

EGT’s in are usually considered OK till you get above 1500*F. It’s more of a rule of thumb then anything else, since most parts don’t get that hot but some will get hot enough to get damaged when EGT’s get up there. EX, most aluminum alloys melt before they start to glow, and the edges of exhaust valves are notorious for absorbing heat and having a hard time dissipating it.

We’ve all seen and heard of stories of people seeing glowing turbine housings and assorted exhaust parts on street engines, especially during tuning. That starts in the mid 1200* range. That is also in excess of what it takes to melt most aluminum so just about no shiny coating will work there (most have aluminum added to them to make them shiny, which will melt and cause the coating to start breaking down)

Running anything at the ragged edge of what the maufacturor recommends is a quick way to experience failure, so I would doubt that something rated for 1300* will last that long in that environment, especially since the coating will result in more heat retention in the part so it will get hotter then it would uncoated.

 

Loko said they do for 3 years, 100% guarantee against cracking, flaking, peeling, etc. I am kinda cautiously skeptical though...I'll see.

 

On my turbo DSM's with aluminum heads I could easily hit EGT's 2" out of the head in the manifold of 1650F. Sustained temperatures there would melt the pistons. The turbo itself was hitting 1500F consistently. I had mine tuned so that when I ran out of 1/4 mile I'd just be hitting 1650F (ragged edge).
Your turbo temp is gonna depend a bit on how far away from the heads they're located.
If you got 1500 deg coatings most likely you'll be fine.

 

I agree with Viprklr, I've heard similar EGT reading before the turbo on DSMs, and I've personally seen my T3 turbo exhaust housing in my daytona glowing bright red at night, (I've heard it's almost common after hard driving) Personally I wouldn't coat the turbo. Why?

 

Mine was definitely a bright red after a hard run. Even normal driving on them will get you a dull glow.
When I was a child of the DSM world coating the turbo was virtually unheard of. There weren't really any gains to it except to keep it from rusting. Underhood temps are the only reason I could think of for coating it. But in the DSM's case you'd also have to coat the manifold and the O2 housing. After that you'd need a free flowing exhaust (4" melon launcher) to help move that extremely hot air.
I wouldn't waste the money on coating any of that unless it's gonna be a show car.

 

You guys have your mix or your timing messed up. The exhaust should never glow like that unless you're running some real serious power for an extended time. Much more than a 1320 blast. That daytona started out messed up from the factory, so that's not your fault. I've worked on DSMs, Turbo 2.3 fords, and Power Strokes and when they were tuned right never got over 1500 F. That's coming right off of the exh valve. A very dull glow at night should be all you ever see. It won't even be visible during the day. A street engine should never run as hot as you're describing or you'll start dropping exhaust valves, or beating seats up into the head.

I agree that if you wanted to coat the turbo you'd need to coat the manifold too. As far as a 4 inch exhaust.... The hotter the air is, the faster it will naturally move. Why do you think the intake valves are so much bigger than the exhaust valves? Coating the exhaust in a naturally aspirated engine increase the energy in the exhaust gas making it flow better and thus scavenging the cylinder better. On a turbo car you get more work into the turbine by coating, but since almost all turbos are waste gated you don't need that much turbine power. You will decrease the under hood temps which will save your paint and reduce intake temps with will help with power. There are better places where the money can be spent.

 

Mine was set up for the track. 1650 is the desireable temps to be hitting at the end of the 1/4. It's not a good idea to have the same setting on the street though.
A glowing red manifold on DSM's is normal. Believe me. I was worried about that myself when I first got into them and then found out that it's exactly that. Normal.

 

I had a long talk with Dave Buschur at Buschur Racing home of the 7.81 @ 173.8mph Pro Import Eagle Talon http://www.buschurracing.com/ He basically laid it out to me about after turbo EGT's. like 1650-1700 would be a full race layout, basically on the ragged edge where max performance meets destructive force. He said typical hot street DSM cars would be in the 1300-1400 range. The GN pages are a great source of info on this as someone I think pointed it out to me. I belive If I had a turbo car, unless I was going for 8's or 9's I would probably stay in the "hot streetcar range" for parts safety.

 

I guess Dave's made some progress. Last I heard he was running in the 8's.
Thanks for the info from a reputable source.