ok im looking to turbo my 88 IrocZ L98 and i have a battery of questions so here it goes, first off what size turbo do you recommend, i was turned on to a t-60 by someone here on the forum that sounds mighty tasty, my car is a stock l98 but b the time i get aroud to the turbo im going to port the heads intake plenum and runners nd put all new gaskets in it and an AFPR. also the car is just mostly street driven no track time really and its not going to be my main car so its just kinda a weekend ride an i just want some more power out of it (dont we all) secondly how many lbs of boost can you push with an all stock l98 bottom end, it has about 100,000 on it but iran a compression test on it when i first got it over a year ago and they were all within 10 psi of each other but i dont remember numbers i think it was 180s or 190s but not 100% there... next what size fmu would you recommend? i was thinking a 10:1 from some past experiences. next has anyone successuflly used an Apexi S-AFC on their car i have one (first style) and i was wondering if i could put that on my car to help the fuel curve and stray away from new injectors for a little while i also have a motocross addiction i have to support! next i want to run a single turbo so what sice tubing should i run from the manifolds to the turbo then out and what size from the turbo to the i-cooler and th the throttle body, actualli i kinda wat oto keep the stock look is it possable to keep the factory air setup and run the piping into a y then into the factory things for the sleeper look and im going to try and hide the turbo under the hood maybe behind the radiator infront of the pulleys that way i can still gravity feed the return line and run all black piping so when i "pop da hood" it kinda blends in and noone really thinks much of it! also what about crankcase evacuation? and lastly atleast that i can think of for now is should irun a spark retard box or will i need it with the small amount of boost i would be running i was thinking if not then to just retard the timing very slightly via distributor and jumper wire and since im runing a knock sensor let that control it if im running into any detonation. ok thats all i can think of for now...

*eric*

 

instead of the apexi you can just run a cheap FMU (do a search) and that will keep you in the same injector for a short bit.

there is this post here in power adder from BBSdesigns he is making a nice single kit that comes with a t-60. he ofers it complete or in partial form.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=223186

 

ok well i aleready have the S-AFC and i was planning to get an FMU... but anywyas is a t-60 a good size?

*eric*

 

i was doing calculations for buying the optimal turbo for my car and i found that a T04B-60-1 would do the trick. I have 1.6 pressure ratio at approximately 41 lb/min, looking for about 410 horsepower. I dont know if this applies whatsoever but innovativeturbo.com has compressor maps to look at so thats a start.

 

Buy a 2-bar MAP instead of the MAF and run 808 code in the stock 165 ECM.

Then you can tune for boost, both fuel and spark.
You don't need the AFC, FMU or anything like that.

 

i have read up on this, and am very interested... but have no friggin clue what im doing when it comes to DIY programming... you know anyone who might program my ecm for that?

 

hmmm.. how hard its it to do all that stuff to my PCM? how much control would i have with that? i would have to have a chip burnt to work with my application... i have really been looking at the T-4 60-1, so what does everything think of that? just convert to a 2 bar map and have a chip burnt to to match my specs and i will not have to get an FMU or an ignition box with a retard control.. sounds easy enough...

*eric*

 

This is what you need to get started ( or what I use ).

* A 2-bar MAP sensor ( about $100 )

* A bin file editor. This one is free and works great:
http://tunerpro.markmansur.com

* A definition file for the ECM code you are using. (This is for the 808 chip )
http://jobyteknik.homeip.net/fredrik...1227808_5d.ecu

* A bin file to start with. I have a 808 bin that works as a starting point for a 350 TPI with a 2-bar map sensor.
This one is for a 305 TPI with a 1-bar sensor: http://jobyteknik.homeip.net/fredrik.../305map808.bin

* Craig Moates "GP1" GM Memory Adapter kit with two eeproms (no eraser needed). ( $55 )
http://www.moates.net/gmecm/hworder.html

* An eprom programmer like the "Pocket Programmer 2" ( $150 )
http://xtronics.com/memory/EPROM.htm


When tuning the fuel you should have a wideband lambda sensor installed. It is almost impossible to have someone burn you a chip based on what your mods are. You can save a lot of time if you have a bin from a car with a similar setup as a starting point.