ok guys heres my question i am getting a few applications mixed up here im trying to envision my turbo project before i get ripping into it...after deciding that i will be better off making my own headers i have a few questions, we all know if the headers are tuned i will get better responce in the upper rpm range and keep that low end grunt, but on the other hand we all know that the closer the turbo is to the manifold the better off it is for lag,

so my question is basically i have a few ideas, one is to make them untuned and mount the turbos inside the bay one where the battery tray is, and one where the evap canister is, both will be gone/relocated , or i can make a normal tuned set and mount them underneath, the car and just route my intake back up makes it easier on routing the downpipes hehe,

so my question is what will be best from your guys expeirence

btw i probably plan on going with a twin turbo set up, or i can go single i just want ot keep this project on the low buget side

 

Tuned header length is primarily for scavenging during valve overlap. Since turbo'd exhausts have such high backpressure (1x to 2x boost pressure), forget about any efficient scavenging on regular street/strip engines. More important is keeping header length short and insulated, to have as much heat spin the turbines, rather than being lost in the engine bay. Why not mount the turbos as close the engine as possible, instead of in the corners of the engine bay? That's a lot of very hot piping...

 

you know i was surfing your site all last night trying to find pics of your headers.... in your log would you mind posting pics of your headers??

 

Andris sumed it up to a T.

If it was a all out 1600+ Hp setup your shooting for 7second ETs id consider equal lengths. For a street/strip setup Id just figure out a symetrical looking setup. Then again Thats me Its gona look perfect as well as perform.


If you want to place the turbos like that Id say your quickest way would be buy some $99 s10 shorties and flip em and make the rest of the pipe to place the turbos where you want.

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...0turbo%201.jpg


You may think I come off as an A$$hole in the other post but ere are a few DIY pic's i have saved when I planed to go the cheaper way.

http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...ens/TurboCars/

but I can to the conclusion my time is $$$ and I don't have the time to build the headers/crossover I want and feel spending $1000 was well worth the $$.

 

it really does not matter ( within reason ) where the turbos
are in an engine compartment . factory example - buick gn
drivers side goes around back of engine pointing forward
on passenger side , has to be 4-5 feet of tubing . race example
most single turbo v-8 drag cars have the turbo located
in the nose or right behind a headlight area again a few feet
of tubing to get there . most extreme example is the sts
turbo kits mounted by the rear axle , a guy named brent has
one on a new gto and went low 11's at 120 mph .
i have built a cool looking equal length header for my
talon it worked great . i built a non equal length header
for my friends 69 camaro worked great . just finished my new headers for my typhoon (unequal) similar setups have
made 800+ hp on a 4.3 based motor .
IMHO close mounting turbos to an engine would be of benefit
only on small displacement engines .

my 1 cent opinion

 

Also, at the power levels you are thinking of making, there's no reason to build headers.

A modified set of the cast steel L98 exhaust manifolds and you'd be away. While I don't have my finished right yet, I have all the materials for it and its going to cost exactly 103 dollars for them ($50 for the manifolds, $40 for the flanges, $13 for the 1/4'' plate)

Hell look at the Gale banks manifolds and their power claims.

Doing it this way is a really tight and neat looking package, and really cheap to boot.

to borrow from kenton and where chris has it posted...



you can't argue with this simple but really effective setup

 

unequal length header dyno chart

http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/...&postid=376697

did i mention blowing thru a carb after driving to the dyno
no trailer queen

 

how do the welds hold? I have heard of problems welding cracked manifolds. what welding method was used? looks good

 

the L98 exhaust manifolds are cast steel and not cast iron like most the manifolds you come across.

It welds really easily.

those aren't mine, but i'm duplicating them. I've cut off the stock collectors and welded them closed. I'm using a high nickle stick on an arc weldor, but you could use a MIG with no problem. I think the ones posted above were done with a MIG.

 

Are the L98 manifolds the only ones that are cast steel What about the lb9? How can you tell?

 

i honestly don't know.

Someone else might be able to chime in here, but i know the L98s are cast steel for sure.

 

that's good to know, I will have too see if I can keep the ones from my friends 89 formula 350, (lucky for me I have a millermatic 251 )

I have had two sets of lb9 manifolds and they look identical the the l98 ones.

 

Those manifolds were one of my first welding jobs- I was learning as I was going (thats my excuse for the ugly welds). They were welded using a Miller MIG welder. I have nearly 8k miles on them, and many more miles will be put on this summer (hopefully).

Here is an engine bay shot to show the positions of the turbo. Everything fits nice, but I did delete the A/C, and the drivers side DP is a tight fit to the steering shaft. With a little extra work, I believe it would be possible to retain the A/C if you really wanted to.






BTW- I now have a web-site. Keep in touch, I am trying very hard to get it finished up.

www.khturbo.net

 

great! that's the plan. I asked my friend if I could have the manifolds to make turbo ones out of them and he said sure and is going to talk to a guy who has two t3/t4 turbo's for sale, I plan to start this prodject mid summer since I have a half dozen things to do. and would like to see what my car does right now with the s/c and heads and intake first


btw sorry for hijacking this thread but, it was for good info.

 

i have 2 flanges, drain fittings, v band flange adapters, 2 mitsu 14b turbos, oil cooler, almost got my complete kit