Here is a pic I got sent to me today. I had the tires up higher on some other passes, but its a good pic... I had a 1.38 60 that day. I really need to work on my suspension though it spins bad if I put more than a 100 shot on it.. I just dont know what else to di with it at this point... any help would be greatly appreciated...current mods are as follows

spohn torque arm set at -2 pinion angle..
spohn control arms
spohn panhard bar
lakewood 90-10 struts up front
moroso trick springs up front
competition eng. drag shocks in the rear
stock springs in the rear..

 

Killer launch!!!
Hope mine hooks like that.
Do you have any pics of it "on the ground"? Just trying to get a better look of the hood.
DonB.

 

I don't know man, looks like you're hokking up pretty good. If you're pulling your front like that and spinning without wheel hop the only thing I can think of would be more tire.

 

What are the specs on your setup? You are in the 1.3X's on a 100 shot??? That is really impressive!

 

are you planning on going to the nsca race this coming weekend in atlanta? i'd like to see you there and maybe meet ya!

 

No, But I will be at the gafba shootout at silverdollar this sunday....

 

Yeah, but anything more that a 100 shot and it goes in the 1.40s cause its spinning out of thehole.. It pucks the tires up then it just drops back down and spins

 

do you have a spool or a locker/posi etc?

what are you running for a rear swaybar?

 

of course. everyone i know is going to the gafba deal in reynolds. i'll be in commerce with the nsca. maybe i'll split and go down to reynolds sunday. what time and how much will it be?

 

detroit locker, and stock swaybar with poly endlinks. I am switching to a spool soon..

 

from 11-6 I believe... 10 to get in...... If you come up just walk up and say high you will see the car. I will be there with a white 86z28 and a 87 Iroc. both are fast.. white car goes low 9's and the black 87 iroc goes mid 10's on my old motor

 

$10 to race? i assume t/n/t only, any bracket racing or anything? that's cheap. and if i come, i hope to break into the low 13's. i'm still slow.

 

here ya go

 

So it pulls the front end on launch, then after the the front tires slap back down you spin? You are obviously hooking up good from the start but the wheelie is killing you when it comes back down, hard I imagine, transfering weight back forward which unloads the rear tires.
I'm not that familiar with drag set-ups but I noticed you have your suspension set-up to maximize weight transfer to the rear which is what you want. Right now you could say you are getting 100% transfer on launch, as all your weight is on the back tires. You might try dialing the suspension back the other way a little so you are still getting enough weight transfer to blast out of the hole, but not pulling the front so high enabling you to maintain the weight over the back tires throughout the whole launch. just my .02.

 

got any motor specs? and what type/size tires are u running in the rears?

very nice car dude, i hope mine launches the exact same this year

Thanks, Mike

 

10 to get in and 15 to race,, there are a few classes and some bracket classes,,,,,

 

You're at the point of needing to upgrade that rear sway bar!

 

Could you explain how the rear sway bar affects a drag launch? I'm trying to picture it in my mind but I can't see it. It seems like he has no problem with the initial launch, but the weight transfer after the wheelie comes down unloads the rear enough that the 100 shot causes wheel spin. Sway bars help minimize side to side but I can't see how they will help with front to back which is where the problem seems to be. I'm not doubting, just curious. I think the key is to find a way to keep the front end down.

 

Keeping the nose down isn't helpful when it's a traction problem with the rear wheels. If anything, the higher the nose, the higher the CG, the more weight is over the rear wheels during acceleration. That extra weight is a "normal" force that aids in traction.
What a stiff rear bar does is limit the suspension movement to keep things from binding. By doing that the tires are kept flat on the ground. You can't prevent weight transfer from happening but you can prevent it from taking a tire off the pavement.
Another reason to use a very stiff rear sway bar in drag applications is to prevent the driver from being knocked around during the launch. I've only heard this from drivers so I don't have personal experience with it but when the chassis twists you get a little disoriented. It makes sence to me and besides, why do you care that the right side and left side suspensions aren't linked? With sidewalls like he's running there's no reason to have the sides independant when in a drag car the only real suspension motion you want to worry about is how the weight transfers to over the rear tires .
As for loosing traction when the 100hp hits, that's telling me you need more tire if you're going to be juicing it where you are. Either that or add a 3rd stage to make it more progressive and not on/off. Lots of ways you can tune it. BTW, awesome 60' times and the car looks good. I think it's time to try a really stiff rear bar and see if it helps any. I've only heard of it doing good, never any harm (on the strip).

 

just my opinion , i would think you need a
torque converter with a different stator to change
the way it hooks . there are so many out there
and that is a good way to soften the hit but
maintain high lock up percentages for good mph .
ptc converters are used a by alot of the true 10.5
nitrous crowd and those cars are 60 footin in the
1.20's and running 1/8th's in the low 5.'s

 

You could build a converter without a stator, so you don't the instaneous torque multiplication at launch.

 

I see what you mean about the sway bar. It limits the roll from the torque of the launch. Guess I brain farted, I've heard of installing an airbag on one side for the same purpose.
From what I understand he has no traction problems with the initial launch, it's after the the front comes that the rear loses traction. If he cold hold the wheelstand down the 1/4 mile he would have great traction, of course that's not possible unless you're building an exhibition car.
If you pick the front of a car up and drop it the car rocks forward. To me it sounds like that momentary weight transfer to the front is enough to unload the rear tires enough that a 100 shot over powers the available traction. If it pulled the front less or touched down softly it might keep the weight tranfer to the front at a minimum, keeping the weight over the rear tires where it need to be.
I agree %100 that the weight needs to be kept over the rear tires, but physics say that the aftermath of a wheelstand is going to be weight transfering forward.

 

Drew! Nice pic for sure.

I'd say start limiting the front suspension travel. It should keep the nose down and you won't be losing traction when the front end comes bouncing down.

 

Can we get some motor specs?

Are you doing all this without SFC's?

 

The pic is not real close or defined but your tire pressure looks a bit low I can not tell from the pic but they might be cupping. If they are bring the tires up 1/2 - 3/4 psi. If they are not the problem try pulling 5-6 degrees of timing on launch for .5 seconds this will soften the hit until the weight has been completly transferred to the rear wheels. We picked up .05-.07 seconds in 60' this way on our Q8 car. There is no reason you should not be able to make your suspension work your same combo has already been 7.66 @ 186 on a DRAG RADIAL!! Good luck!

 

...........and the spool is definately a good idea.

 

What kind of times are you pulling with that car?

 

Maybe i'm way off, but have you tried a softer, or progressive rear spring, to help control your rate of transfer, remember, on a "perfect" launch the wheels should barely come up off the ground and slowly settle, the ease back down, looks like you are getting almost to much initial transfer, and are not able to hold it. Jus tmy thoughts.

 

I have sfc on it

406 12.8:1comp
forged bottom end
custom cam from david vizards cam doctor
afr 227's
single plane intake
quickfuel 950 carb
nx gemini twin plate system

 

I have thought about getting a delay control. and setting it up to delay about 1 or 2 tenths and ee if that helps.

yeah I know about that radial car, that is insane. Alot of my problem is weight. its 3430 with me in it. I jsut have to save some penies and get a k-member, a-arms, and some better shocks . I am kinda running the cheap ones.

 

I hear ya, I am running a set of springs from pst. they are stock replacements.

 

best to date so far is a 9.61@141-142.... I am looking for bottom 9's by mid summer withthe current setup. I have a feelings its there just need to find it.

 

I have the converter setup pretty good. I am a dealer for midwest converters and we have been back and forth with this. we came up with a good setup. Thye build some badd azz billet nitrous converters. They are also way less money than other companies. They also give you a 2 year warranty, and 2 year free stall upgrade.

mine is a 3800 full billet nitrous unit with a 2.6 stator, and upgraded sprag, torrington full roller bearings....

 

your setup are Pretty similar to me but... i'm a bit more radical btw lol.. Take a look here, this may give you some futur plan
http://www.techbull.com/transam

What ratio you have on the rear end ?

 

I am running a 3.70... I dont see that much of a difference other than your is supercharged. we both have aftermarket blocks,heads, valvetrain, internals, roll cages, etc......

Its a nice car though should run good for you...

 

yeah very similar. This is why i have posted a comment, my english not too good so , i'm better in reading

The supercharger add some incredible power btw, i never have a street car before that can scream the tire at 60km on the road like this car, and i run 91oct fuel And run all my summer on the street, thats a must for me

Are you running on the street whit it or trailer only ? May be costly a bit whit race gas on the road..

 

3.70's? Wait - what kind of rear do you have? Not a 9 bolt.... nooooo .... if so, what in the hell did you do to it to survive 9 second passes

 

It's a Moser 9"

 

Now that would be impressive !!! lol

oh wait what about my stock 1LE driveshaft, is that impressive ????