IF YOU WHERE TO BUILD A 600HP BLOWER MOTOR.....
IF YOU WHERE TO BUILD A 600HP BLOWER MOTOR.....
Well I have been running around in these forums for a few weeks now. I have posted a few times on the things that I have for my build, and the things that I want. In the end, I want to build a 500-600HP motor for my 92 camaro. I originally was going to start with a 1972 GM 400 4-bolt main block, but after many suggestions there are better options out there to start with. So that is my first question, if you where going to build a 500-600HP street car that is going to have a P1SC or D1SC blower, and run off of pump gas, what block would you start with? Lingenfelters book on smallblocks suggests a Bow Tie block over the 400 4-Bolt, but I dont know much about these. Any suggestions? This is my first question in this post, and I am sure their will be many more. Thanks for the help fellas,
Cole
Cole
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
It depends. How often is it going to be producing 600HP? If you have the cash then just go out and buy the Bow Tie or Dart block. If it is just a regular street /strip engine I would just get a 2 or 4-bolt 350. Yes, opinions on this will vary a lot.
As often as possible. Really I am just looking to build a bulletproof engine, something that will last. I would love to give it to my son someday as I wished that my father would have passed down his 69 to me. 500-600HP is my dream, but I am unsure of how easy that will be to build. I would like it to be a smooth idling motor, and run on pump gas. I obviously need to start at the ground up if I am building it to accept a blower, that is why I am starting at the block. Where can I get a Bow-tie block? How much? Thanks Junk,
Cole
Cole
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From: Saint Clair Shores, Michigan
Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: 86 iroc
Engine: yea it has one
Transmission: yea it has one of them also (im 2 for 2) :)
find a 350 "010" block (long time since ive even tought of them and im not 100% if it is a 010) and if the block wasent a 4 bolt already convert it to one useing 4 bolt Splayed Main Caps (block must be line bored after 4 bolt instal), use all arp bolt/studs for the mains if i missed anything please chime in
Sean
Sean
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Posts: 782
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From: Port Angeles, Wa
Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
A good solid 350 "010" four bolt block with all the proper machine work and ARP everything is going to net you a pretty stout bottom end. If you have the extra money you could go more exotic and get the motown or dart block but I think I would still just go for the 010 block if it were me.
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From: Palatine, IL
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: 454 .030 over
Transmission: th-350
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
id get a 454 block, fordged stroker crank and all the other goodeis cuz being stroked is nice, and i like being blown, why not both? and whats better then a blown big block camaro with slicks and headers?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
From: Saint Clair Shores, Michigan
Car: 1985 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI (block was swapped)
Transmission: 700r4 w/corvette servo
Axle/Gears: no idea
Would this work, other than I want forged Pistons????
1978 350 4-bolt main 010 block
.060 over zero decked
clearanced for 383 stroker
hyper 4-valve releif flattop pistons
chromemoly rings
GM crank
GM vortec 5.7 rods
Double row timing chain
HV melling oil pump
clevite rod/main bearings
292h 501/501 flattappet cam/lifters
oil pan
timing cover
balancer
flexplate
Fresh build, never run, ready for your choice of heads!!!!! $850
1978 350 4-bolt main 010 block
.060 over zero decked
clearanced for 383 stroker
hyper 4-valve releif flattop pistons
chromemoly rings
GM crank
GM vortec 5.7 rods
Double row timing chain
HV melling oil pump
clevite rod/main bearings
292h 501/501 flattappet cam/lifters
oil pan
timing cover
balancer
flexplate
Fresh build, never run, ready for your choice of heads!!!!! $850
Last edited by hollowcd; Nov 13, 2006 at 09:36 PM.
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: '82 Sport Coupe/'89 bird/'77 280z
Engine: 355/2.8/L28E(t)
Transmission: TH350/T5/4 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73/3.42/3.54
hyper pistons don't like boost.
go with a blower cam for a blower or a turbo cam for a turbo, or an N/A cam for N/A. they don't cost more so why not.
.060 over is a lot for boost too.
go with a blower cam for a blower or a turbo cam for a turbo, or an N/A cam for N/A. they don't cost more so why not.
.060 over is a lot for boost too.
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From: Palatine, IL
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: 454 .030 over
Transmission: th-350
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
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From: Wi
Car: 99 Camaro
Engine: LS
Transmission: TH-400
Axle/Gears: 3.25 9"
Theres nothing wrong with either a "010" block or a two or 4 bolt 400 at the 400-600 HP range we have built a couple of 412ci 400s that were well over 600HP on spray and haven't had much trouble with blocks ... but a good steel crank is a must cola, scat, or others make good steel cranks that aren't too expensive , another way to go would be a BBC I have a 408 ci 2 bolt that sees 6000 + rpm with a steel crank and is over 600 HP (on the motor) and has been hit with a 350HP plate with no issues .
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From: garage
Engine: 3xx ci tubo
Transmission: 4L60E & 4L80E
You could also go with a Holley Stealth Ram, TPIS Mini-Ram, or a modified LT1 intake. I have a modified LT1 intake and I like it, but it is a fair amount of work to make it fit the older blocks.
You can still make 600HP with the TPI with the right compression and boost.
You can still make 600HP with the TPI with the right compression and boost.
My thoughts on how to do your setup reliably; GM 1053 forged crank, a set of Powdered metal rods, some ARP studs in the main with a .030 bored block and TRW/Speed Pro L2441F pistons for 600fwhp. If you want to the wheels I"d get splayed billet caps or a 4 bolt block with studs and some H-beams. The L2441s are heavy slugs but they do work well, another set to look at if you use production type rods are the Probe Factory Replacement series they're as cheap as the TRWs but considerably lighter; however they are also press fit only for the pins where as the TRWs will work with a bushed type rod. With a 'charger, some Vortec heads and this setup 5-600fwhp should darn near be like shooting fish in a barrel.
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