this is the setup ............91 camaro 355ci stock bottom end
.96A/R TC-78
jgs 50mm wg
jgs 56mm bov
12x24x4" A2A front mount
CSU 750
vic jr.
comp cam turbo cam, hyd. flat tappet 212*@.050" 444"/447".... i think..... pretty small
innovative LM1
msd pro billet
msd 6AL BTM
aeromotive A1000

TH350, 3600ish converter, awaiting 3.23's(currently 2.73's)

ive ran the car on the street with 7-10psi boost on pump gas with stock iron 1.84/1.50 valved heads and feels very strong considering the crappy heads and small cam.

i am going to put on my AFR 195cc heads w/ 1.6 roller rockers( with multi-layer steel gaskets), and change the gears to 3.23's(26" tire) and run somewheres around 15psi with a 50/50 race gas/pump gas mix... oh yea converter seems to be flashing a bit higher, like 4000ish..

can this setup get my car into the TENS? like 10.999??? my concern is the cam being so small and obviously the the stock bottom end... but seems to be holding up very welll so far..


any advice or estimates would be awesome!!
(im trying to beat my uncles N/A '80 trans am.. 461ci pontiac, th400, Dana 60, with some ignition problems he dynoed 447hp to the wheels and has run a best of 11.01 @123mph, i gotta beat him, he bashes my small block "chebby" so bad and i only have a quarter of the mnoney in mine as he does in his..........)

thanks guys!!

 

that should do it. if your a good driver, and if the car gets traction, and if the power is tranfered to the ground. you will def. have the hp to do it, but having the chassis and suspension is another story

 

I would invest into some good rods and pistons and make it a 8-8.5 to 1 Compression ratio. Then blow him out of the water even if you don't get traction! lol.

That is the only thing I would worry about if I were you, especially if you have a high Compression ratio with 15lbs on top of it. Race gas should help but your rods might strain to hold together!

Turbo is a great thing. It doesn't take much to get 500 RWHP. Upgrade your bottom end and your uncle will never catch you N/A.

 

I sure hope you get more the the 195 heads. Get at least the 220's.

 

Almost the same size lift cam I used to run in my 305, man that's tiny. It was .447/.454 lift. Take it to the track and see what it does.

 

I think the 195s will be perfect for what you want. Turbos work fine with stock size cams But yours may be a little small for what you wanna do. Id run 15 16 psi and just watch the Wide band, keep it safe your not gonna want any knock with that bottom end. Look in to alky injection as an option aswell

 

i already own the AFR 195's they flow something like 272 or 275 cfm i think @ .500" lift.

im hoping that my timing retard and the race gas will keep me safe from detonation..
also have a decent sized intercooler.... for what its worth. i'd love to hear any more comments or advice.
thanks.

 

you should step up to a taller gear around the 3.42 or even 3.73

 

The 195cc are good heads! Especially the AFRs! I have Patriot Performance cnc bowl blended heads that are 195s. I am hoping to run close to 750hp on them.

My friend boosted his LT1 and it had 500RWHP on 5lbs. I don't know if you have ever seen LT1 heads but their valves and intake runners are tiny compared to my Patriot Performance heads.

 

im pulliing the entire motor this weekend hopefully, 1st to swap the heads, but also wanna tear it down and take a look at some things, probably will re-ring it. i wanted to build a short block but money is simply not allowing it so we'll see how far i can go on the stocker with AFR's....

 

Keep us updated man! I want to see what that thing runs!

 

pulled the motor today, pulled the heads but didnt have time to pull the pan and inspect the bottom end before i had to be to work.(not that im suspecting anything wrong..just curious)

cylnders/pistons looked quite good, plugs looked good so far so good..

i think i am going to do main and rod bearings(did new cam bearings when i put the comp cam in it.)
and possibly some ARP rod bolts... and put it back together with the AFR heads and MLS gaskets.

i dont think i am even gonna bother re-ringing it... i didnt seem to have any blow by or such, so i figure i'll leave the "broken-in" rings in it which hopefully are loose enough not to but together under high cylder pressure/temps.



i was kind of surprised that the off the shelf fel-pro cheapie head gaskets looked as good as they did after 10 pounds of boost on an un-decked block and un-milled heads....

im gonna try to post some pics of the pistons and crap soon.

 

Stay with a 3:23 gear...

I'm at 6000+RPM before cossing the line at 133mph. I've got a 9" in my car so the next closest gear in ford terms is 3:25.
I'm running a 3:50 gear now.
Keeping your AFR's good and a eye on knock!
Good luck,
Scott~

 

I wouldn't run that much boost through a stock chevy block. It'll go together and run fine, probably(for a while). That kind of power is past the limit of long term endurance for a stock block, you'll start to see the cylinder bores flex. It would really suck to blow up the bottom end and send piston pieces through an expensive set of AFRs. I've seen motors making less power on chevy blocks go on a dyno and loose power after every pull cause the ring seal starts to fail from the bore distortion.

 

shouldnt be a problem. As long as ya hook up etc..

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=61219.0

 

i have a sim setup with a 383 motor and i have a stock 4 bolt main block and at 10 lbs am seeing trap speeds over 138 so you will be ok with what you are doing. I run the new afr eliminator heads on a 383 with a tiny 224 230 550 lift cam on a 112 . i do have good pistons but run a powder metal rod that was shotpeened they are summit brand i believe and i have a scat crank which isnt much better than stock. weight of my car and trap speeds would say i am seeing over 650 rwhp if i had to guess. i run a 342 gear and am zinging it on the big end to get through the quarter. if you get any detonation it will kill it but stay safe with timing and cold plugs and should be ok for a while. Dont launch on boost and at a good track should be able to squeek out some 10s on it. it will def out mph his car for sure.

 

i took apart the motor everything loosk pretty good, i think i am going to do a half fill on the block and new bearings, put it all back together and keep it on the rich side, and hope for the best......

15psi with the AFRs hopefully trap 130mph.

any tips or hints on filing the block at home, making sure its level etc...
and how does it effect cooling capability??

thanks, Keith

 

A few things I would do at a min to expect it to live at all. One plazma molly rings gapped big. Two arp rod bolts. Three fill the block but this is tricky for street use I did it on my 392 lt1 and never got hot. U have to fill it on a angle I did it from the bottom of the freeze plugs on the outside to the top of the lifter bore on the inside that way enough water can still cool a lot of the cylinder. Worked great for me on that motor. That much boost will break a regular ring trust me on that.

 

When you fill the block only fill the bottom half. It effectively halfs the unsupported length of the cylinder bore making the block more stable. It won't have a major impact on the cooling of the motor since the heat from combustion is concentrated in the upper part of the bore. So like lt1z350 said just fill it up to the freeze plugs.

 

you would be suprized how much just doing that strengthens it. we did a test with a block and a piston that was a little tighter than it should have been to see the pattern it wore in the cross hatch and no block fill was spotty. with the block fill like i said it was a nice square wear pattern. wich i took the time to do it to the one in m turbo car now. will when it breaks a rod or the crank.

 

i pulled the motor apart and cant believe it lasted the short time it did....
when i put the motor in i was in a rush to get it running i threw some cam bearings in it and never even chevked the rods and mains...
turns out #'s 5 and 6 rod bearings were both spun and all eight rod bearings had some pretty goog wear; copper showing on all of em. and theyre already .010 over.

Now im in search of a '88+ block for the OEM roller cam setup(not having to do retrofit) and 2-bolt mains so i can do splayed caps along with a block fill..
moneys tight, and cars in storage, probably wont do much till spring....

 

I have a stock late roller truck block that is 2 bolt and .040 over that with a hone would be ready for pistons. I also have 2 sets of 3.23 gears if you need that too. Sell cheap just to get rid of them. I am in fl though so shipping on a block could be pricy. not sure if you are close enough to come get it.

 

I appreciate the offer, i THINK i have a deal lined up with a local guy, trading a 1971 "010" 4 bolt block for a 1996 roller block, supposedly standard bore.

i have a drum rear with 3.23's and a mini spool to go in it.

thanks though!!

 

Just remember to do the Short fill before any machine work. You want to bore the block AFTER. Just mentioning that since I didnt see it posted about.

 

Your goal is easy to reach. Trust me. Im running Aluiminum L98 heads, TPIS ZZ9 cam, and a smaller turbo. 10.7 is my best time and my rear suspension is original, almost 200,000 mile junk. Your car should run very good with a good tune. One question tho, how is your car stock bottom end if its 355ci? It must have pistons in it if its bored .030 over.

 

thanks for the tip on machine work/block filling.

and yes, it does have .030 over pistons, i referred to it as a stock shortblock because they're oem style cast aluminum, dished w/ 4 valve reliefs.
crank and rods(and rod bolts) are entirely stock. sorry for that misinformation.

 

Ok, well the cast pistons might be your limiting factor. But then again, i've seen some people make some good power without breaking cast pistons. It depends how good the tune is. You HAVE to stay away from detonation. Thats the key. Good luck with your build man.

 

thanks!, i know the detonation is what might kill it. im gonna keep the tune on the fat side, id rather change some spark plugs then go thru pistons...

im tight on money but may have traded my way to a '96 pickup shortblock(350ci.) i believe this has hyper. pistons right?

still fragile but we'll see what it can do in the spring when the track opens back up....

-Keith