OK so I got my carb hat, FPR, gauge, and BTM box.

The BTM box says it needs signal from bellow the throttle blades. It also mentions that the gauge should be tapping into the same place.

What about the FPR? same place? I have seen people tap into the carb hat in a Super Chevy mag. Any tips would help.

 

you could use the intake as a source i've always been told never to tee a FPR with anything else as not to give a false reading to the FPR you should have enough spots on the maifold for acouple of fittings

 

So never tap into the carb hat itself? I have seen that a few times. Are people doing it wrong?

I know I should keep things with fresh signals, but the real question is do I stay above or below the throttle blades.........

 

you could tap the hat it will show boost both ways so either way is fine

 

So there is no "better" way to do it? Hat or bellow blades is the same? I guess it is since I am only in booste when the bypass valve is closed. When that happens the throttle is open anyways.

I wanted to have all the lines be stainless braided lines. I just can't find a nice way of executing this. I already got a 1/16"-NPT to 3-AN fitting for the regulator. I have my BTM box inside the car so I wanted to have a bulkhead fitting on the firewall so the signal can get inside. Any thoughts on this? I can't seem to find a good way to make the 3-AN bulkhead into hose barb like the BTM box wants and so does my guage.

This is getting on my nerves now and it sux. I really just wanted a nice way to run vacuum lines. Maybe I am over doing it and should just run some damn rubber line and call it day with a grommet on the firewall....

Just seems lame and easy, NOT what I want to think of when I look at my engine. Devil is in the details.

 

I think it could work either way, but usually you want to see before the throttle blades, in the actual plenum. Engine manifold will be under vacuum when throttle blades close, when the hat could be momentarily under boost until the BOV or bypass valve opens. The signals for those items should be from the plenum or runner.

I'd tap the back of the plenum section if possible or into one of the runners with a small 1/8 npt port.

 

When you say runner you must be talking about the hat right? Cuz when I think runner I think intake track. Anyways, I will call Procharger and MSD today and post what they tell me.

 

dennis you should run #AN line if your gonna run big boost as not to pop off the lines esp. on the FRP and BTM box can you just run a line thru the wall with a rubber groomet so noone can see it . I'm not sure if russell makes a #3 bulkhead fitting but ill be runnin all braided line when mine is complete so your not the only one that thinks ahead rather be safe then sorry when it comes to that stuff good luck

 

I mean intake runner as in below the carb on the manifold itself, not the HAT. You can tap into there for a port vacuum source. My victor has a port tapped in there but I use it for MAT sensor not vacuum. All my vacuum lines connect to the plenum section.

 

I'm running my FPR hose to my carb hat, seems to work for my application. I have the boost gauge hooked under the front vacuum port on my carb, (which is t'd in with my surge valve). I'm onlt seeing 7lbs with the 4.5 inch pulley

 

Called C&S today and got all the info I needed on this subject.

FPR- tap into hat, this way it will never see vacuum and reduce fuel PSI.
Bypass valve - manifold, this needs to see vacuum to open.
Gauge - vac/boost of course goes into intake
BTM box - Intake, this needs to see the booste the motor is seeing so it knows how to mod the timing.

I will run braided line to the FPR and the valve, both under hood. The BTM box and the gauge will have rubber tubing. Gauge using tubing easily and the BTM box has a barb on it, I don't want to mess with pullthing that out and swapping to NPT/AN. Maybe someday. For now I will use rubber tubing and secure with a mini hose clamp we use here in my lab at work.

 

def some good info...

 

A generic rule is to never add a hole to anything if you can help it. more holes = more chance for leaks.