Right now the GTA is fully tuned up to 20 pounds of boost pressure. Must have read Rauscher's Accleration Enrichment article so many times until it finally sunk in lol. If I put the MT 315's from the vette on the GTA there is no question in my mind that the rearend will be destroyed, no question whatsoever, she pulls very hard, insomuch that even the Grand National fella's I hang with are saying damn. Been patiently waiting for some of the other members in this forum with their own builds to throw up some numbers before I embarrass them with the anemic 305's results so far. The Holley intake, its here if you want it, if not no biggie. I ported that awhile back with the only concern being volume. Any substantial increase above the cylinder head ports will essentially "shorten" (not literally) the distance from the chamber to the throttle body orifice, and I opened them up as much as they would go. Will try to throw up a pic of the ports and measurement tomorrow...

In for updates!

I'm upping boost on my TPI here soon

I think I am going to pull the 4" intake tube from the throttle body and run a 3" tube in its' place, mainly because I want to retain the stock appearance, and not have to run a 2 1/2" cowl hood. Also, I think the 3" downpipe is hurting me, and I need to somehow figure out a way to fit a 4" downpipe in there. I don't want to notch the frame though...

Nuff, you need to get that thing out there and take down some GTR's on the highway, getting so tired of those damn guys hogging up all the limelight on youtube. Was thinking about 2.73's myself, as the 3.42's really limit my MPH...

I'm thinking about getting a pro charger type setup and running a waste gate on the recent 305 build and running g around 10lbs at the track on race gas then put the the lowest lbs spring in waste gate I can find for street cruising ? I believe I'm around 10-10.5 cr right now ... idk might b fun might go boom ! Lol

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

Quick update for the thread, the duty cycle (heh, I said "duty" - insert Peter Griffin's voice lol), the duty cycle is getting up there at 20-psi, so I had to install the larger injectors. While the runners were off I hit them with some Black paint too. Paint scheme will all come together when I install the STB (which fits perfectly btw). Also pulled the 4" oval intake tube we made off of the throttle body in favor for a 3" tube so the stock hood will be able to close, just waiting on the tube to get here so I can cut it, bead it, and get back to the track...

I TRIED TUNING MY SRT WITH A HIGH AN LOW BOOST BUT I NEVER USED THE LOW BOOST EXCEPT IN SNOW .LOL

How are you beading the aluminum tubing?

We use a bead roll set, and it's a real pain in the @ss because my buddy doesn't have his mounted anywhere, so it's constantly moving. We have to crank it with one hand, then hold it in position with the other as you clock it, while another person holds the machine in place. Works like a charm though, as I'm a pretty big guy, and the couplers don't budge once the tubing is beaded and in...

Quick update;

I posted over on Project89's thread, and mentioned how the center section has started to leak a little oil after racing everything I can find on the highway last night (I have video ). Maybe it always did trickle a little oil and this is the first time that I even noticed it, for that matter. At night it is impossible to see anything, even with lights, so I waited until this morning to see what the heck was going on. Firstly, the lower bolt that connects the exhaust housing to the center section has a little oil trickling out from behind the bracket plate it holds down, and the upper fitting on the oil return line just below the turbo also has oil trickling out from it. I pulled the downpipe off and seen no sign of oil anywhere, and started the engine and observed it, and no oil shooting out. Intake side is also clean from any oil being prevalent. So, long story short, oil is more than likely backing up from the block off plate fitting that we made and creating it's own pressure build up, either that, or that particular area behind the block off plate doesn't support enough volume needed and is essentially causing the same thing. One of two things to do here. One, is simply move the oil return location from the block off plate to the oil pan directly, or two, put an oil restrictor on the top of the oil feed going into the turbo. Going to try the easier method first, that being the oil restrictor up top...

Been doing some reading on boost and found this ...just figured I'd share ... so looks like I can't run much boost with 10-10.5 cr lol ..

I believe I could run 10 psi on 110 leaded no problem

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

All it would really take for your engine is E85, as 11.5:1 is the area most target for running as much boost as they need. Simply doesn't detonate from what I have seen. Get your hands on a DW300 fuel pump like me (compatible with E85), larger injectors, and adjust your target afr with the EBL. Sounds difficult, but it really isn't. The hardest part would be finding a local E85 station near you. Could always just drop the compression where you need it with custom Cometic head gaskets, which you would need to install anyway if you go boosted...

Well, the restrictor didn't help one bit, not to mention the fitting that came with the turbo was essentially a restrictor in itself, but I went with an even smaller diameter restrictor and it still didn't do the trick. Let this be a lesson to you new turbo SBC guys, do not use the mechanical fuel pump block off plate as your return source. The area behind the plate that houses the mechanical fuel pump pushrod simply cannot handle the volume. I now have to pull the damn engine out again and drop the oil pan to install a return fitting, sigh...

my returns ( both) are to the fuel pump area and i have no oil issues , ur block may not have the return hole in the pump mounting spot not all do.

if it doesnt have the drian back hole u can drill it , if it does have the hole u can drill it larger

The engine has both holes, that was actually covered awhile back when I was talking to BBSDesigns about his turbo header setup, it was one of the first things I confirmed before using the blockoff. Even with both holes though it's getting backed up. I'm not going to drill the block any larger though and worry about residue with the engine already being together, it's easier to just drain the oil, drop the pan, and install the fitting while it's on the lift. If it was a bare block, then yeah. Not going to do the fitting in the driveway, as Paul can get it done in five minutes for me once it's by his house...

u should be able to put the fitting in with the pan on the motor in the car, just do not drain the oil pan before welding it

and use a punch to punch a hole in the pan instead of drilling it

while my engine was apart i instaled 2 bungs in my pan just incase i wanted to switch from the fuel pump area

Spring is officially here, finally. The weather was incredible, especially considering this is swap meet weekend at raceway park. Gonna bang out the Intercooler box tomorrow, and weld it into the bumper support. Already bolted in the hood latch/nose support and painted it, just need to weld the box in underneath it, and the two will be bolted together using bolt spacers. Will look factory when done, and everything is easily accessible in terms of maintenance (bulb replacement, IC removal, etc)...

Should have the cold air box wrapped up later tonight, with the welds smoothed down, and everything hit with a few coats of black. Will definitely look factory when done, and it's very stout in terms of strength. Few more pieces to weld in, and I need to shorten the lower area as it will only extend as far as the crush guards. I'm also going to make a removable bracket for the front license plate...

It's pretty much done, I made the top already just need to weld it in. Before I do that though I need to smooth down the welds, grind off the flux, smooth the edges down, then top it off with the cover. Once its all welded up, and smoothed down, I'll remove the crush guards and fog lights, sand it down, and hit it with some black paint. Can finally put the nose back on then permanently with the mesh grill installed...

Last pic for the night, gonna freaking pass out soon lol. Setup is gonna look awesome when smoothed down and painted, even the crush guards will look brand new when I am done. Too tired to do anymore tonight...

Looks great, Nice work man! Keep them pics coming.

Awesome fab work Lethal!

Thanks guys...

Still have some smoothing and shaping to do, then it's just the matter of painting it then putting it all back together. The cut out on the nose bumper is the exact same length as the air box. The metal used is 16 GA steel, same thickness as the bumper support itself, and it doesn't budge. It's very strong. Will have a picture of the finished product up soon, it's gonna look killer. Happy Easter fella's...

i can't wait to hear this things exhaust note

want to buy a 9 inch housing and axles located in ny?

It sounds very unique with the exhaust hooked up. Next on the list though after the cold air box is done (painted) is the hood. Gonna blow your minds when you see how it comes out, it's going to look awesome. Not sure about paint just yet, as I have been fiddling around with different colors with a spare front bumper. Might just keep it black though to tell you the truth...

Not just yet, wanna see how long the stock rear holds out first...

Good luck!

awesome, unique is good. black is beautiful, and until the boost comes on

Beautiful day outside, way too much sun (not complaining lol). Gonna wrap up the front then get back into the tuning...

Looking good, should have mine together soon.

Im running the stock ac box for now, I will let you know if I want the delete box you have in the future if you still have it then. If you have a buyer between now and then feel free to sell it.

Lol, too much sun? Not in Jersey, lol. I dont miss the snow one bit

Hey street ! Ever get the runner dimensions on that intake ? ... I finally got mine.to the track last night ... only got 2 shitty passes in before it rained out .. but I picked up about 10 mph trap speed ... still needs major tuning work tho ...

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

Very big cam I went with for this 305. Got the idle down to 900-RPM, targeting 14.7 stoich in Closed Loop, yes, Closed Loop lol. Any lower than 900-RPM and she surges no matter what I do, but considering the size of the cam, 900-RPM with no surge is pretty damn good. Here's a short clip. Still running an open down pipe. Gonna spend the rest of the day on the nose bumper, gotta glue the mesh grill in and then paint...

... the two of you must "unlearn what you have learned" (beer is kicking in lol).

Lol, yea beer was kicking it hard today. Got the turbo headers and xpipe on, tightening them down i hear crack. Hmmm cold weld broke in 2 places. Fixing it now then back on later. Tight fit too.

I think I heard you had some street racing videos somewhere up top?? Link?

Which welder and rod are you using...?

I'll be posting everything once I edit it, including dyno and track. I have been posting the entire build in chronological stages.

good.......................good....... muahahahahahah

Cool. Now I kinda feel like Im waiting on a PPV fight!

Eastwood mig 175 with gas. Bl85c did the original welds on the headers, just didnt get enough penetration in some spots. It aint gonna crack now, just gotta do some grinding to clean it up and the passenger side header can go back on. Drivers side is tightened down, ill have to loosen it a bit to get everything to line up. It really is tight, man it was solid as hell bolted up.

I put a brushless on an rc car, kinda feels like Im doing the same to the Camaro, just a much bigger brushless, lol

The cold air box was actually six inches bigger than the original cut I made in the nose, so I increased the length of each side by three inches. Couldn't use my cutting tool because of the noise, had to use a box cutter just to make the preliminary cut. I already smoothed down the cut along the bottom, the sides and top will be perfectly even once it is all smoothed out, will look flawless when done. I already purchased the honeycomb style mesh grill, a la Pontiac style. Still debating what color I am going to paint the car, as the grill will be black, and I want it to stand out. Even though I painted the cold air box black, in the daylight the Intercooler's reflection can be seen on it, pretty sweet looking...

Yeah man!

Grain of salt... That chart says i'm at 20.9:1 comp under boost. How can i be on 93 oct then?

Because you're Orr and you just dgaf.

u lucky bastid im stuck with 91 oct but i still ran it up as high as u without issues, though being a mile and a half above sealevel did help with that

at sea level id prolly have to drop about 5 psi on 91 oct

Once we get summer air i probably wont beable to make full boost. Cooler is taxed. Need meth or better gas lol. My runs were made in 40 deg weather and dropping. Air was thick!! Snowing by time i left. Cold air makes pump gas power possible. Meth is a must at higher temps and or compression

So technically I could run 14*15 lbs @ 10.5:1 cr :-o ... and all the shell stations here have 93 and the shell by the track has 110 leaded at the pump.
Oh and I'm only at like 1000ft

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

You will have to experiment but good intercooling and cold plug it may be possible

Okay, the cold air opening/orifice on the nose bumper is done, just need to sand the rough edges a little then prime. Car is very dirty, need to wax her asap. Gonna stick with the TT2 rims, they are 17 by 8 up front, and 17 by 9 1/2 out back, with no spacers. Wait til you see the killer hood I go with, as those of you following this build will be scratching your heads saying to yourself "wtf is he nuts" lol...

Figure I'd kill page ten with one last pic, picked it up for $150.00 over at e-town...