TransAmGTA88

After fighting with 8 rib serpentine belts trying different pulleys, trying different spring tensioners I finally made the move and converted everything over to a cog belt setup.

What started all this was having a valve keeper break last October at our Buick, Olds, Pontiac race at Cordova Dragstrip. Once the keeper broke, #5 intake valve smacked the top of the piston a couple times then the valve luckily got bent slightly and stuck in the valve guide doing minor damage to the top of the piston. After this happened I decide to pull the motor and completely tear it down and freshen it up. While doing this I wanted to get the crank double keyed knowing that I want to convert everything to a cog belt set up. I also retired my old dart pro 1 heads and upgrade with a new pair of Profiler heads and with T&D shaft rocker setup.

I just finished getting all the new pulleys on along with having to modify existing brackets and shims to make sure everything will work properly. While Procharger didn't exactly recommend doing the conversion, multiple people have done this before without issues. One concern I had was having the input shaft on the Procharger double keyed. After calling and talking with Procharger they indicated if I was at or over 1500 HP then it would be necessary. With that said, I stuck with the single key setup. Larry at LRS/ASSC in Lake Villa, IL has been a huge help making this conversion come to life. Hoping to get the transmission and motor back in the car this week.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Keep us posted! I am planning to build a dart block 388 with a superram and D1SC and looking to go with a cog setup as well.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

great setup i'm doing the same thing from pictures i've been seeing on here my question is where did you get that smaller shiney cog pulley from? i looked for along time and went with a bigger one but needed a shorter belt a part number would be helpful thanks

TransAmGTA88

The smaller pulley was custom made by Larry at LRS/ASSC

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

that's what i thought ty i was looking all over for it lol

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

Where did you get the power steering bracket from?

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

this is for tpi engines you use your factory acc brackets and add the procharger bracket in front of your brackets

TransAmGTA88

Exactly, nothing special about the bracket for power steering and alternator.

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

TransAmGTA88

I bought everything as a kit (D1SC kit) from Larry @ ASSC/LRS Performance in Chicago back in 2011 or 2012. He is a procharger dealer. With having issues with serpentine belt slipping I bought the cog pulleys and belt from him. Getting the alignment and pulleys in the correct position is going to be on you along having to do minor modifications to brackets etc. Check ebay & craigslist, people are always changing to different platforms.

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

Thanks i will look him up. F1 cog pulleys are pretty plentiful i have found except for the brackets. Been checking found nothing so far. What needed aligned and all with the pulleys?

383backinblack

Awesome setup man.

I've had a cog drive F1R since about 2005, and I've never had an issue or regretted it. People hate on it, usually because they never checked the alignment and then they throw belts. Knock on wood, I've never tossed one.

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

Where did you get the bracket at or come as kit?

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

that' s the standard TPI bracket you have to modify it to put the cogs on the setup

383backinblack

The whole thing came as a kit from Procharger. It's a "Carbureted race kit." Which basically means that it's just a bunch of parts, you have to figure the whole thing out yourself and still fabricate half of the stuff

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

383backinblack

I got mine directly from procharger in 2005 (I think). You can get more things your way if you piece it together for sure.

Things I highly recommend, although on a D series blower it's probably not as important as with the bigger F series units:

Get a crank with a BBC snout, which is double keyed. (Even if you have an SBC snout, at the very least you need to double key it).

Get a blower drive hub. ATI dampers makes one for that snout, and a corresponding timing cover to fit it. It's modular, and it's huge and beefy. It also allows a much wider selection of lower sprockets as it uses the large register, 6-bolt chrysler blower drive pattern.

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

383backinblack

The super pulley always looked cool, but never seemed to take off. The problem is it only comes in one size, last I checked (45 tooth). From what I've heard they tear themselves up on street cars as the sprags aren't well lubricated, but they're pretty solid on race cars.

There are lots of good engine builders. I've always worked with guys that used to be local to me, in NH (Golen Engine). Really solid dudes, and they've always done all my machine work.

88ricekiller

iTrader: (2)

TransAmGTA88

Very very important...I just went through all of these steps. I've got a SBC snout double keyed with BBC hub for my ATI damper. Being that I have D1SC I wanted to double key the blower hub, but after talking with procharger they indicated double keys in the blower hub would not be required at the 700hp to 800hp range that I'm currently at.

TransAmGTA88

Update: Been having issues with the cog belt walking under a load. The original bracket that came from Procharger is too weak and is flexing under power (not designed for cog belt application). Trying to come up with a more rigid bracket for a cog belt setup. Everything I have come across shows a double plate setup for an F1, but I still have the oem alternator/power steering bracket to take in to consideration as well. Trying to find a solution.

tom86iroc

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tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

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TransAmGTA88

I've already got those brackets in place. Part of the problem is the 2 long bolts that bolt back into the cylinder head. I believe those are flexing under power. I'm going to try using studs to go into the cylinder head, then use 2 stainless steel bars that are drilled and tapped on both ends along with using a baseplates at each end. I'm hoping to try and make that area more rigid. An other option I'm looking at is using an F1 bracket that is 3/4 Thick compared to 1/2 thick. The F1 bracket has a front plate and rear plate, but I can't use the rear plate with my OEM alternator/power steering bracket in the way.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

larrys extra brackets are helping ? maybe the bracket is off alittle by and not straight?

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

oh ok gotcha i tried deleting those posts after i reread your whole post sorry lol i understand now hopefully i dont run into that when i get mine done lol

TransAmGTA88

Larry's brackets help, but still having issues. Decided to add an adjustment rod on top of blower as well. Just got everything back together tonight. After taking it out and testing it, I'm still getting belt dust. My next move is to mount a GoPro by the belt so I can hopefully determine what is causing the belt to walk. I'm also going to recheck my belt tension.

Adjustment rod mock up

Adjustment rod mock up side view

Got rid of the 6" long stainless steel bolts that tie into the cylinder head. This setup is alot more rigid and will help to prevent any flexing.

Standoffs installed

TransAmGTA88

UPDATE: Broke the snout off of the crank last night. Time to tear it apart see how much damage this caused.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

what kinda crank were you running? and did you pin the crank or just use the 1 key way?and sorry that sucks man

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

oh boy... your post concerns me a bit. what do you think caused it? we are mid 700's whp on a friends ysi car. it is double keyed with sbc snout, and the crank pulley is spaced out there quite a bit. we have a 30mm cog belt hanging on for dear life at 15psi. one of the not very distant mods we are looking to do is to up the boost, aka change puleys. i adapted a 5.0 ford cog pulley set (73/30) to work on his car, so considered simply swapping to a renegade setup that was commonly used in the nmra. it would use an 8 rib belt and has an 8" crank pulley. we could then add the kurgan blower brace to take the load off the snout.

TransAmGTA88

400 scat forged steel crank, small block snout, double keyed. Crank is roughly 15 years old. Ripped the snout off before the timing gear, bent all the valves. Looking at going with a Callies forged steel crank with a big block snout, double keyed.

TransAmGTA88

I was slowly working on the blower belt tension. Previously I got too aggressive on the blower belt tension on my D1SC (cog belt) and it wiped out the bearings and gear set. I sent the blower back to procharger to get it rebuilt. They informed me that I could upgrade my D1SC to a D1X. Which procharger claims the upgrade yields another 100CFM along with another 75HP. I took the hood off and mounted a GoPro on the fender to see what the blower belt was doing under a full throttle pull. What I found through watching the video that the blow belt was expanding, which would cause the belt to walk back and forth. Not mention a violent vibration under higher RPM. I was trying to carefully add a more belt tension in hopes to get the blower belt to settle down...the rest is history now. I'm planning on pulling the pistons and crank out tonight. I just rebuilt the motor two years ago and might have 25-30 1/4 mile passes down the track with very little street driving.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

im going to really push for a kurgan blower brace on the car ive been messing with. also going to make the change to a 10 rib nmra renegade pulley set i think. thanks for the input from your own car, its helpful.
on another note, do you have any pics of your air intake setup off the blower? pulling cool air from somewhere?

TransAmGTA88

My air intake is the last post
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...take-help.html