Motor Plates, Block Filler?
Motor Plates, Block Filler?
Ok guys, this might sound like a weird question but, I've got my twin turbo 383 for my 91 Z-28. We're planning on 800-1000 HP and everything has been built to hold..........except the block (other than billet main caps). My shop said the motor's good for 800 but if I push it more than that then I'm really pushing it. Here's the question........do you guys use the motor plates to help out with block integrity or are there other reasons I'm not aware of. What other ways can I help the block survive and still drive it on the street on Friday and Saturday nights and to the track. Thanks for any advice.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
I use a motor plate but they are used more for tube chassis cars and for header clearance.
You have to use travel limiters to keep the block and transmission from moving for or aft since the plate is flimsy. Its only 1/4" thick aluminum and while it is tough, I dont think it does any block stiffening.
It sounds like you are getting things covered by filling, and using splayed mains.
Some other things you might check into would be plugging the deck (put plugs in the big holes in the deck) and then true the decks. That adds some stiffness.
Torque plate boring goes without saying.
I ran into the same situation where I was worried about the block. I had a 400 factory block.
I ended up getting rid of it, and bought a Dart Little-M block with steel main caps. All my stuff will transfer into it just fine. No worries with it.
Good luck.
PS: Can you tell us a little bit more about your turbo setup? Is it finished up and waiting on your motor or is it only in the planning stages?
You have to use travel limiters to keep the block and transmission from moving for or aft since the plate is flimsy. Its only 1/4" thick aluminum and while it is tough, I dont think it does any block stiffening.
It sounds like you are getting things covered by filling, and using splayed mains.
Some other things you might check into would be plugging the deck (put plugs in the big holes in the deck) and then true the decks. That adds some stiffness.
Torque plate boring goes without saying.
I ran into the same situation where I was worried about the block. I had a 400 factory block.
I ended up getting rid of it, and bought a Dart Little-M block with steel main caps. All my stuff will transfer into it just fine. No worries with it.
Good luck.
PS: Can you tell us a little bit more about your turbo setup? Is it finished up and waiting on your motor or is it only in the planning stages?
Actually the motor and turbos are finished. Right now I'm making arrangements for a local shop to help me build the intercooler and run all the plumbing for me since I can't weld aluminum nor have a tubing bender. Here's the specs if your interested and will shoot some pics to you if you like.
High nickel block SB to 383
All forged internals
Banks Twin Turbo Manifolds
T04B Turbos w/ .68 a/r, P-trim wheel, H exh. housing (by memory)
Accel Super Ram Manifold
1000 cfm Throttle Body
55# (prob. going to 83 shortly) Accel injectors
Solid Roller Cam 236/244 dur. @.050 .590/.590 lift 112 ls.
P&P Brodix Track 1 heads
Using a TKO transmission w/ Lakewood bell housing
Currently on a built 10 bolt w/ Auburn Pro Series and 3.73 gears
Billet Sabers 17x9/17x11--275/40,315/35
Just need the intercooler and plumbing, a good 9", and a dual disk cluth and I should be ready to have some fun. And ofcourse let the local magician work his magic with my DFI. Like I said if you like I'll shoot some pics of the set up and the car if you like.
High nickel block SB to 383
All forged internals
Banks Twin Turbo Manifolds
T04B Turbos w/ .68 a/r, P-trim wheel, H exh. housing (by memory)
Accel Super Ram Manifold
1000 cfm Throttle Body
55# (prob. going to 83 shortly) Accel injectors
Solid Roller Cam 236/244 dur. @.050 .590/.590 lift 112 ls.
P&P Brodix Track 1 heads
Using a TKO transmission w/ Lakewood bell housing
Currently on a built 10 bolt w/ Auburn Pro Series and 3.73 gears
Billet Sabers 17x9/17x11--275/40,315/35
Just need the intercooler and plumbing, a good 9", and a dual disk cluth and I should be ready to have some fun. And ofcourse let the local magician work his magic with my DFI. Like I said if you like I'll shoot some pics of the set up and the car if you like.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Sounds like a really nice setup.
Yeah take some photos!! Im always into seeing more turbocharged thirdgens. There arent many of us out there.
Good luck with the shortblock.
Yeah take some photos!! Im always into seeing more turbocharged thirdgens. There arent many of us out there.
Good luck with the shortblock.
Thanks, I should have some pics of the motor and car for you by monday. Let me know if you have anymore suggestions or idea's. By the way that custom turbo header looks real nice Guido.
Trending Topics
LIL QIK, I am in the same boat as you. I am about to test the limits of the factory block. I too run a factory l98 block, that has splayed billit caps, and is "short " filled. I have all the components to make big power, but will the block be able to keep up? Big question! Guess we are going to be the ones to find out. I plan on keeping the rpm under 7000, and will be running a very conservative tune, to fend off detonation.
As for posting a pic. Down at the bottom of this page there is a box that says "browse" hit that button and you can select a pic from your files and upload them to this site.
As for posting a pic. Down at the bottom of this page there is a box that says "browse" hit that button and you can select a pic from your files and upload them to this site.
Yea, I was cleared for 7500 rpm's but I figured I would keep it under 7000 for a safety factor and just push a little more boost in the lower end. Hey BlownBird, I noticed you were thinking of cutting loose of your blower,BTW which looks like a real nice setup. If you don't mind me asking, what are thoughts on going with and whats the HP level your planning on obtaining. And I may have mislead you on the short fill. Thats something I'm considering doing even the that means taking the motor back down. I still want to drive the car on Friday and Saturday nights and ofcourse to the track, but wasn't sure on cooling problems after using filler. What is ya'lls input on that? Thanks for the help on posting a pick. That makes it alot easier.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 1
From: Indianapolis, IN
Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
If you pull the block to have it filled, you will have to have it rebored or honed. When that stuff sets up, it can distort the cylinders.
Just a bit of advise. Im not real up on all the details of filling, but I do know at least that much about it.
Just a bit of advise. Im not real up on all the details of filling, but I do know at least that much about it.
Well that solves that. I'll just take my chance with what I've got. Hopefully it will hold long enough to build the next motor. Through building this one I learned alot about things that I would have done different. Thanks for the info Guido.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1992 Trans Am
History / Originality
27
May 10, 2023 07:19 PM
evilstuie
Tech / General Engine
22
Jan 9, 2020 08:29 PM
mhatfield 14
Tech / General Engine
5
Oct 24, 2015 07:48 AM





