84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Damn, what a difference.Night and day.Fast as modern cars or at least my 99 s10, which are pretty fast.Ive been eyeing these things for a while contemplating the price, but i got a good discount on one and went for it.Glad i did, i would say my windows are 3x faster then before, weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I bought one when they were first released and actually feel normal when driving my 91 firebird.

oddly enough, my 82 camaro windows are great without it. If I can spare some cash later I might buy a second one just to have the fastest 3rd gen windows on the planet

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Oh sure, then the windows accelerate so fast they fly out of the doors.... LAPD confiscates your windows and crushes them on LIVE TV to send a message to other would-be street window racers that they're not taking any ****.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

My windows did the 0 to closed in .002 nanoseconds , might as well hand me the trophy and dump the basket of money at my feet now ....

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

No money, just bragging rights!

ploegi

Erm, is this a joke product? I fail to see how this thing could make any difference at all??? Reduce the amp load?? Erm..... HOW???? Does it magically make the windows easier to roll up/down????

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Not a joke, maybe shoulda made a vid, but can you tube it.My only gripe, is the size of the box.
https://www.classicindustries.com/pr.../gn110367.html

ploegi

Yeah, I have read their blurbs, and what they are 'supposed' to do, but, do they actually make a difference???

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

With a sticker like that, I would HAVE TO remove it to see what's inside.

From GMEFIMagazine....

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

I did that already, but the CB is locked in good. I didnt want to risk breaking the circuit board.I did see a heat sink and i think some big capacitors. I like how it says "warranty void if removed". I carefully placed the label back on and made sure not to touch the back so as not to leave greasy prints on it.

t/aws61985

iTrader: (2)

Might buy this. A really weak point of my car is the power windows.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Here is my video of the install. I did a before and after of the window speed.


It basically steps up the voltage from 12v to 18v

Here is my initial review and the discussion that followed.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...dow-racer.html

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Hmm, not that impressive for the strain being put on the motor. Did you clean and lube the tracks too?

I ran 12 gauge wire to my window motors and it is about as fast as you have posted WITH the racer installed. I was hoping to see it more like the GM EFI magazine result

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

That's how slow mine were, but now they're slightly faster than the GN posted above.Perhaps I'll make a before/after vid if I can find the time.
Your window sounds a little noisy.Maybe the adjusters at the top are a little too tight. I've used them to keep the window from rattling, but it's easy to go too far adjusting them.My driver window slows down a bit at the bottom for that very reason, so I need to move one back just a hair.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

My windows/doors are screwed. Someone had drilled out all the rivets to change the window motors long before I bought the car.

So before the window racer, I would have to open the door to get the window to roll all the way up. No with the window racer, I do not need to do that, which is nice when you drive into a downpour here in florida.

I did clean/lube the tracks when I replaced the motors a few years ago. I am not going to take things apart again.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

But taking things apart again is how you build familiarity and understanding. By working thru the issues you learn more about the system and gain working knowledge!

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Well, that's kind of like cutting your nose to spite your face. The window tracks are maintenance items like anything else. And from the sound of the window motors in your video, they aren't going to last long with the additional stress from the increased voltage.
Like I said, I ran a larger wire to my doors and my windows are just as fast as yours. I applaud this product, but it is a bit of a band-aid solution, and I can see a lot of people being disappointed when things start breaking.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

There is probably more stress on the motor/s from any misalignment than there is from the window racer.There is only so much fresh grease can do. Replacing the rivets is a good start.

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

If all it does is convert 12 volts DC to 18 VDC then there has to a cheaper way. Probably would need to spend some time trying to figure that out though and maybe that wouldn't be worth it. Interesting stuff.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Definitely cheaper to do make your own.If I knew how, ida done that.Cause I'm super frugal. Maybe those capacitors are the key to this thing.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

I find it odd that the 86 Firebird window harness laying in my shop uses at least once size larger wire than the 91 harness... I can't really follow why GM went smaller on later cars, but it sure looks that way.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Ive noticed that too...desperate attempt to save weight maybe.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

https://www.powerstream.com/Product9.htm

scooter

iTrader: (11)

It's all about the $$$$, or in this case a few tenths of a cent

scooter

iTrader: (11)

It's not just voltage. You need to supply a decent amount of current too.

That only outputs 4 amps, probably not enough for the voltage drop and the amount of current a window motor is going to pull

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Could be they figured running the load thru the switch was already a limiting factor.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Amazing how this thread is an almost carbon copy of the first thread about the racer ...

91banditt2

iTrader: (1)

84 1LE, Can you provide a semi-long term review of the Window Racer?

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

Ive had zero issues with it, nor have i noticed any negative effects on the window motor. The windows roll down just as fast as the first day i installed it. Its never even tripped the circuit breaker. Very pleased with it.

91banditt2

iTrader: (1)

How did you mount it under the dash, It’s not exactly small and I’m assuming it’s not just flopping around. Any suggestions on mounting? I suppose a couple well placed cable ties would work?

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

I tucked it into a space on the trans tunnel right where it meets the firewall. It kinda wedges in there and the hush panel keeps it from falling out. I had velcro on it at first, but the piece taped to the trans tunnel just wouldn't hold very well and sometimes when i removed the hush panel it would fall out. So i just tuck it in, it stays just as good.

I did have to extend the positive wire since it wouldn't reach the fuse block in that spot and its just a little too bulky to fit closer to the fuse block with the stock length wire. I even tried removing the plastic case its in, but its not really anymore compact without it. Other than the velcro i didn't see another way to secure it, but i never tried anything like cable ties. Couldn't be worse though, i just like the idea of being able to take it out of the way if i needed access back there. which is basically never for the most part.

Balbea

Is anyone using this noticed a whining sound in the radio all the time and an increased whine when using the windows.

My car is a very low mile car that I completed an LS Swap in back in 2012. Never heard the radio noise until installing this. Noise goes away when removed.

any ideas??

Thanks!

t/aws61985

iTrader: (2)

Need a better ground. Could be a ground loop situation or simply interference due to the magnetic field made by all the components used inside. I'd insulate all your speaker wires. A ton of work yet worth it. There is a reason why the bose system in the camaros costed so much. They used isolated wires with heavy shielding. Never use body grounds with sound systems. Always use battery grounds using a optima, with top and side posts to make it easy. That's why OEM systems get so much noise. Body grounds

nosajwols

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone measured the output voltage when in use (load and no-load would be interesting)? I see it has been asked but I do not see an answer....unless I missed it.

I ask because it is the first step in reverse engineering a similar solution for much less cost! Is it just a black box with x voltage in and y voltage out... no need to open one up to figure out how to do that.

84 1LE

iTrader: (9)

I unplugged mine and noticed no difference, but i do have a tiny minuscule buzz that is drowned out at around vol 2/above. It doesn't change with eng speed either, but its there with or w/o the speed racer plugged in. I grounded the amp/radio chassis a long time ago, but it barely made a dent in the buzz. I dont think its amp related either, but i could be wrong.

There no increase in buzz with the radio on/eng on or eng off while rolling the windows up/down either. So maybe your WR is defective or as mentioned find another ground for it.

Someone in another thread about the WR said the output is 18v but a DMM at the connector to the window motor should give you a voltage #, right?