no pre-existing problems... got to work with no problems... went to leave work... won't even turn over... not even a click. battery has plenty of juice but still nothing

anyone have any idea what might be causing this?

 

Dead Starter...

 

nope... has a brand new one on there

 

I can almost guarantee it's one of two things...

1) You need to replace your ignition switch. I was having that SAME problem with mine, everything worked fine but it just wouldn't turn over (no click or nothin') Replaced the switch and it's worked great ever since...

2) The ignition chip (take a look at your key) reader is starting to go bad. I had a friend with a 1990 IROC that had to replace the chip reader and it too has worked just fine ever since...
HTH!!

Bruce (90RS305)

 

what am I looking for on the key? worn chip? it looks fine

 

He's talking about the metal contacts holding the pellet to the key. Sometimes either the contacts on the key or inside the lock cylinder get worn or dirty and won't read the resistance of the key correctly. Sometimes one of the wires on the lock cylinder will get worn or break inside the steering column. Does your security light come on when you turn the key. If it doesn't come on for two seconds, then you probably have a broken wire on the lock cylinder.

 

I could be wrong but.. IIRC the starter will still turn but the dizzy won't throw fire if there's a malfunction with VATS. Does anyone know this for sure?

... and I've never noticed a "security" light anywhere or any time

 

If the VATs Control module does not get the proper response from the the resistor in the key, it will prevent the ECM from sending a signal to the starter enable relay and will not send a pulse to the fuel injectors. When this happens, the security light, which is located to the left of the service engine soon light, will come on and stay on until the correct resistance is seen by the VATS Module.

 

Well,
I had this happen to my 1979 Trans Am convertible a few years ago!
I had power to the lights, radio, but no ignition! I tracked it down to a battery cable going to the starter. It was not in the right place (as I wasn't the original owner, the one before me replaced it with a generic one, and didn't run it in the same way that GM did), and would hit the block, causing it to arc, and blow out my module in the distributor!
Of coarse, it took me about 3 tries to figure this out (by this, I mean 3 modules!!!! ) And yes, I replace the battery cable with the correct one, and ran it right!!
This might be your problem as well!

Good luck,

George

 

Trickster hit what I was talking about on the head. Inside the steering column where the contacts for the chip are get worn/broken/dirty (in the case of my friend they just got worn so they wouldn't contact the key right) and cause the computer to not let you drive your car. Hope it's not that though, it was a $300 repair for my friend...

Bruce (90RS305)

 

Ohh and on the ignition switch I just had it professionally done ($150) and the funny thing is he over-rid the clutch switch so now I can start my car without the pedal depressed...

 

you have an automatic right? try the neutral safety switch. try turning the key while wiggling the gear shifter around....

the neutral safety switch is under the shifter console, on the side of the shifter. it has a big plug that goes into it..


gl...

 

everyone could be right. make sure your battery cables are tight.

 

starter... not it

cables.... not it

ignition switch.... not it

I dunno... I'm tired of messing with it so I'm going to have it towed to a shop.

 

Try this simple little test, if you have a pellet in the key. Take a multimeter and set it to OHM's, touch the meter's probes to the contacts on the key and write down the resistance value. Next, look under the dash for two yellow wires in a black wrap or two white wires in a orange wrap (newer style) that connect to a two wire connector (wires are purple/yellow & black/white. Disconnect that harness and put the key in the lock cylinder in the "OFF" position. Put the meter probes in the connector coming down the steering column and measure the resistance value in the key. If the value is different, you have a problem with the lock cylinder. If the value is the same, your problem is elsewhere.

 

Thanks for the advice, Trickster. Unfortunately the car isn't where I can readily get to it at the moment. I'll have it towed to a shop in the morning and hopefully it won't cost me a lot.

 

Hey 82Z28NAZ,

If it does turn out to be the lock cylinder, you can fix it a lot cheaper by doing it yourself. Either way, good luck on it.

 

I know I can do the lock cylinder a lot cheaper. But the thing is you still have to go to GM and get a key cut with the stupid chip in it. It's not a matter of cost. It's a matter of time. And that my friend is running very shallow at the moment. I'll be lucky if I can make it before it becomes a huge problem.

BTW.. it cost me all of $25 to replace the ignition switch.

 

I'm not sure if this has been touched or not, but check the wiring going to the starter, more than likely there's an inline fuse that melts when too much current is passed through it. Also, starter wiring on thirdgens has been known to be problematic. My ex-girlfriend's V6 RS set on fire in the driveway, the wiring for the starter caught on fire somehow. Put a multi-meter across the starter leads and have someone turn the key and see if you're getting power to it. There's only a few steps to the starter circuit and as I recall it's just:

Key
VATS
Clutch/Neutral safety switch
Starter

Those are going to be your prime suspects, but I'd be willing to bet that some of that 12 year old wiring that powers the most powerful electrical device in the car is somehow fried.

Good luck man
Tony

 

maybe one more idea to check....

hows your battery? gettin good voltage? turn the headlights on and turn the key...see if they go waay dim. jus a thought.

gl.

 

Here is one that is hardly ever noted but causes so many problems it's ridiculouse.

"IF YOU HAVE TPI"

When you turn your key to the on position does the SES light come on OR do you hear the fuel pump prime? If not I am 99% sure it is the fuse that is right next to you battery.

There is a 20 amp fuse that powers you ECM AND your fuel pump, if it burns out then you will have power to everything & spark, but the car wont run due tot he ecm technically being dead & the pump not feeding fuel.

However W/O VATS the car should turn over, just not start up. but if you have VATS the car wont even turn over.

Give it a try, go check it out and see if it's burnt, replace it if it is and your problem will be gone.

 

there is also a vats fuse on the right hand side of the stearing calum that is next to the stupid thing that makes all that noise when you have your keys in the ingnition and the car is not running in fact it is esay to find it just fallow the noise you here when you turn the key over it should be a ten amp fuse that is to your vats along with some other fuses i don't remember what they were for.

 

TBI also has the fuse by the battery.

It wound up being the stupid ignition lock cylinder. Some wire broke off.

 

VATS will not prevent the car from turning over. Id check the ignition switch and go from there.