Recharge kit didn't work, did I do something wrong?
#1
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Recharge kit didn't work, did I do something wrong?
I hooked everything up correct. I used Nylog oil for the new O-rings and I tightened down everything not overtight, just enough so I don't strip the aluminum. I bought the recharge kit, I followed the directions, turned on the car to MAX AC, watched the needle go to the red zone. Where it says warning. It should stay in the green but it was hardly ever there. I only used like 3/4 a can and kept shaking and shaking. I turned off the flow to see the pressure and it was to high. The directions say to stop and consult a AC specialist.
Now the compressor works for all I know. The clutch was engaging and everything. Someone mentioned to jump a switch? I put a screwdriver in both the high valve to maybe aleviate some pressure and some came out. The dryer never got cold, and neither did the AC. I don't have time for this **** anymore. I feel like trading it in on an LS1 or LT1.
Now the compressor works for all I know. The clutch was engaging and everything. Someone mentioned to jump a switch? I put a screwdriver in both the high valve to maybe aleviate some pressure and some came out. The dryer never got cold, and neither did the AC. I don't have time for this **** anymore. I feel like trading it in on an LS1 or LT1.
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Car: 1991 T/A - Sold (sniff) 1980 T/A Pa
The switch on the back of the dryer. There is a small screw inside it. Turn that out (left) 1/2 turn.
If the compressor is kicking on and off you've got a great start. Only 2 more cans to go.
Chris
If the compressor is kicking on and off you've got a great start. Only 2 more cans to go.
Chris
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Car: 85 87 87 91 92
Engine: 305 TPI 350 TPI 350 Carb
Transmission: B/W T-5 and 700R4
Please tell me that you took it to someone to have them evacuate it before you tried to charge it?
If you haven't you won't be able to get anything in because it will be full of AIR
When you first open the can the gauge will go to red (its because the gauge is reading preasure from them can also) but as the system starts taking the R134A the gauge will go down......The first 2 cans you need to hold upside down so you get more liquid than gas the last one right side up
The Connect that has 2 wires on the back of the drier put it off and stick a paper clip in the 2 terminals that will keep the compressor engaged........
START at the top of this list make sure you have done everything on it and if you have it will work......Sometimes the first can goes really really really slow..But be patient it will work
If you haven't you won't be able to get anything in because it will be full of AIR
When you first open the can the gauge will go to red (its because the gauge is reading preasure from them can also) but as the system starts taking the R134A the gauge will go down......The first 2 cans you need to hold upside down so you get more liquid than gas the last one right side up
The Connect that has 2 wires on the back of the drier put it off and stick a paper clip in the 2 terminals that will keep the compressor engaged........
START at the top of this list make sure you have done everything on it and if you have it will work......Sometimes the first can goes really really really slow..But be patient it will work
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Car: 89 camaro rs
Engine: 383 .06 over
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 10 bolt
Re: Recharge kit didn't work, did I do something wrong?
Originally posted by BigWhiteGTP
I don't have time for this **** anymore. I feel like trading it in on an LS1 or LT1.
I don't have time for this **** anymore. I feel like trading it in on an LS1 or LT1.
#5
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3GTA, here is the part where I don't understand. If I bought all new peices how is there air in the lines, or anywhere. If you say there is, there is, just how does it get in there when I just connected everything?
I will take it somewhere tomorrow morning. Besides, I used a screwdriver on both ports and some pressure came out but nothing more than a small "pssshhh...." <---just that small.
Mrt, I was saying that out of frustration. The heat does that to people. I know a couple hundred spent once, more than makes up for $4-500 extra a month for a new car. I know, relax. However, I've been to 3 shops now and spent close to $400 on things that "WILL FIX MY AC PROBLEM" and I still have no AC. So you can say I don't trust shops anymore.
cg91ta, I know the switch your talking about, I'll look at it again tomorrow. But I don't remember a screw.
I will take it somewhere tomorrow morning. Besides, I used a screwdriver on both ports and some pressure came out but nothing more than a small "pssshhh...." <---just that small.
Mrt, I was saying that out of frustration. The heat does that to people. I know a couple hundred spent once, more than makes up for $4-500 extra a month for a new car. I know, relax. However, I've been to 3 shops now and spent close to $400 on things that "WILL FIX MY AC PROBLEM" and I still have no AC. So you can say I don't trust shops anymore.
cg91ta, I know the switch your talking about, I'll look at it again tomorrow. But I don't remember a screw.
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Car: 85 87 87 91 92
Engine: 305 TPI 350 TPI 350 Carb
Transmission: B/W T-5 and 700R4
Ok I am not sure how exactly to explain it but air is everywhere right? I you had a piece of water hose in your hand with nothing on either end....There will be air in it correct...Like when you open a can of something Vacum sealed is pops or hisses not because air is getting out but because air is getting in....
Ok now the parts you just installed have air (maybe not presurized but there is air in them) So you have to have all that vacumed out before you charge your system....
If this doesn't make since call me I will try to explain better on the phone....
By the way not trying to make you feel dumb...Just this is the best way I could think of explaining.
Preston
(602) 373-0933
Ok now the parts you just installed have air (maybe not presurized but there is air in them) So you have to have all that vacumed out before you charge your system....
If this doesn't make since call me I will try to explain better on the phone....
By the way not trying to make you feel dumb...Just this is the best way I could think of explaining.
Preston
(602) 373-0933
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Car: 85 87 87 91 92
Engine: 305 TPI 350 TPI 350 Carb
Transmission: B/W T-5 and 700R4
Oh yah by the way if you do not evacuate the system before you charge it you could and or can destroy Seals (and not just the orings you replaced but the seals in the compressor) And that could get expensive quick especially when they won't warranty it because of user error.....
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#8
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No it makes sense, I don't feel dumb. I will have it evacuated tomorrow morning. After that is done, I can go back to the re-charge kit, correct?
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Car: 85 87 87 91 92
Engine: 305 TPI 350 TPI 350 Carb
Transmission: B/W T-5 and 700R4
Correct...As a matter of fact when you go to charge it Leave that connector on the back of the drier hooked up it should cycle the compressor by itself if it takes the can and still isn't engaging then I would pull the connector and jump it...But its always better to let the system do the work....By the way as your adding the compressor might cycle on and off till its full(its to avoid burn up from lack of R134A)
#12
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A/C is cold, but still cancels out. Tech said it's fully charged and I believe him. He said there is an electrical problem with the switch somewhere. So for an additional $81 per hour, he can find the problem. So until that happens, what do you guys think? Should I go through with this, or should I become an electrical detective until this weekend when I have my GF available to drive me around?
How many switches or things are there for the AC? Can those plugs that go into the compressor be bad?
How many switches or things are there for the AC? Can those plugs that go into the compressor be bad?
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Car: 85 87 87 91 92
Engine: 305 TPI 350 TPI 350 Carb
Transmission: B/W T-5 and 700R4
Originally posted by BigWhiteGTP
A/C is cold, but still cancels out. Tech said it's fully charged and I believe him. He said there is an electrical problem with the switch somewhere. So for an additional $81 per hour, he can find the problem. So until that happens, what do you guys think? Should I go through with this, or should I become an electrical detective until this weekend when I have my GF available to drive me around?
How many switches or things are there for the AC? Can those plugs that go into the compressor be bad?
A/C is cold, but still cancels out. Tech said it's fully charged and I believe him. He said there is an electrical problem with the switch somewhere. So for an additional $81 per hour, he can find the problem. So until that happens, what do you guys think? Should I go through with this, or should I become an electrical detective until this weekend when I have my GF available to drive me around?
How many switches or things are there for the AC? Can those plugs that go into the compressor be bad?
#14
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All the time.
Well, last night before I went to bed, I checked under the hood for connections and I just pressed on the connections to the compressor. Well today, the AC didn't have a problem with cycling on and off. Not under load, not at idle.....nothing. So it has to be one of those plugs to the compressor. It must have a short. But tonight after work, the AC wouldn't come on until I gave it gas, it shut off ( I got annoyed) then came back on and stayed on until I got home, 25 miles later.
So it's got to be one of those plugs, right?
Well, last night before I went to bed, I checked under the hood for connections and I just pressed on the connections to the compressor. Well today, the AC didn't have a problem with cycling on and off. Not under load, not at idle.....nothing. So it has to be one of those plugs to the compressor. It must have a short. But tonight after work, the AC wouldn't come on until I gave it gas, it shut off ( I got annoyed) then came back on and stayed on until I got home, 25 miles later.
So it's got to be one of those plugs, right?
#16
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Well, I replaced the plug at the front of the compressor facing the radiator because I saw copper wiring at the base of the switch so I replaced it, but problem persists. However, just like that, it works fine upon start up and everything.
Maybe related, but my fog light button doesn't light up, but tonight it was lit up, then goes out. It's a green light, I always thought it would be yellow or orange. Anyway, it's never come on before tonight. Is there anywhere these 2 wires cross? Under the carpet, by the firewall, anywhere? I just think it's weird that's all.
Maybe related, but my fog light button doesn't light up, but tonight it was lit up, then goes out. It's a green light, I always thought it would be yellow or orange. Anyway, it's never come on before tonight. Is there anywhere these 2 wires cross? Under the carpet, by the firewall, anywhere? I just think it's weird that's all.
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