Irocster

Hi all, I am in the process of searching for a good, performance oriented engine building shop around here (Glendora, Azusa, Covina, Irwindale, Ontario, etc..) I've looked in the yellow pages, yellowpages.com, whitepages.com, and searched everywhere, but for some reason not many of them list themselves. So I was wondering if you guys can start a good list of shops for me. I'm not asking for exact addresses, but just the city they are in and maybe a phone number...? I think this post can help all of us in the SO CAL area. Thanks a lot.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

PM Dyno Don. That's your best bet. He built my short block for me and also clean up the ports in the heads. The short block was built for less than $1200.

Irocster

Does he have all the normal shop equipment to re-build and entire engine? We'll see, still not sure yet. I'd still like to see a list of known shops in the area. Thanks to all.

BrandenCali

Like we say again get a hold of Dyno Don.. I don't know of any other shops that I would trust to build my engine.. Don can handle any thing you want done to your motor. Have you viewed the Thirdgen friendly companies?

PsychoGTA

You should check out Superior Automotive Engineering. It's in Buena Park on La Palma and Magnolia. The owner is a cool guy, when I went to get my car dynoed. He showed me around through out the whole shop. It looked like he knows his stuff.
Peace Out,
PsychoGTA

Irocster

Thanks guys

Bens3rdGen

Also, there is JMS in Monrovia. Johnson Machine Shop.
Started off doing marine work about 30 yrs ago, now they do everything. They rebuilt a friends Bronco motor and it's been running for 3 yrs. If you can get a F*rd to be reliable you can do anything. They've also done all the work for the Car Craft project "Battle of the Titans". If you get Car Craft you can see what they charge in the article.

demonchild

eric find that issure of car craft and bring it over...

Irocster

lol, I'll look

demonchild

irocster and i just called the johnson machine shop and they didnt seem to profiecient in anything... first of all, they asked what year l98 i wanted to rebuild. i asked him why it mattered? does it? second, there prices are nothing like the ones in the magizine. to rebuild a l98 engine to stock specs they wanted like 2200 dollars, which isnt that bad, but in the magizine, they completely rebuilt the engine with new vortec heads and intake for 2200 dollars. the heads alone are 600 not to include the intake. even if i did all the building on the engine i would only save like 300 dollars.

can anyone clear this info up.

Irocster

Mike, I think we need to do a little more research on this place before we start jumping to quick conclusions about them.

demonchild

ill say it again...can anyone clear this info up.

just did not seem right today...

BrandenCali

What's wrong with buying a zz4 short block and building it up?

demonchild

i fail to see a problem...

o ya, wait me and eric are 16 and i personally dont have a grip of money. parents think that college next year is more improtant that car. however, i do have 2k laying around for the engine so im listening to ideas.

demonchild

o ya, leo if you see this, anytime you wanna get rid of the block, im here. also, dyno don, didi you have any bare block 2 piece rear main seals for around a hundred dollars that are standard bore? i made up my mind and am going to attempt to build my own block.

Irocster

Mike- I'm 17, almost 18. So technically, when I'm 18, I'll finally "know what I'm talking about" around here. Can't wait. The only problem with the zz4 is that it costs $2000, enough said. Mike, I hate to say it, but do you really know what you're doing with building your own engine? You don't have half the tools to do it. Oh well, if you try it, call me over.

Irocster

Oh year, Mike, just looked in the new car craft, and chevy won the "battle of the titans"! And in the new pics, that manifold gap isn't really there, must have been a bad pic or something. Those car craft guys still must have gotten an incredible deal on the build of that engine.

Jstcrzyengh

iTrader: (2)

Be a little careful with superior automotive, now there is no doubt they will build you a b*tchin motor, but you best have the money to back it up... $3k later I have a 450hp machine just itchin to go in, but it still needs about another $1,000 worth of parts, plus the $900 I paid for the super ram, etc... My engine, once complete will be right around $5,500.

Irocster

See that's a little out of my budget. I talked to a guy the other day who got his '88 Vette motor re-built (L98). He got it done at Corvette Specialists in San Dimas. He said he got the motor re-built with mostly stock parts and is costed $6,000....my jaw almost dropped to the floor. Well, to conclude, after he told me this, he said "yeah, engines are expensive these days"......then he said "a good set of pistons and rings will set you back $2,000" Then I just said to my self "either this guy doesn't have a clue of what he's talking about or he got REALLY ripped off." So either way, I think I will stay away form them. Also most of the time, Corvette shops or people who deal with vettes seem to have a stick up their *** unless you drive one. Arrogant old men

Jstcrzyengh

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I agree with the vette comment, and yes that guy had to have been a complete dumb*ss unless he is getting some kind of weird custom titanium pistons that are hollow with gold and diamonds inside for $2k lol

I basically brought in all of the parts and they balanced and blueprinted the entire block as well as assembled the short block. Also decked the block, and milled the heads, notched the pistons, did a serdi valve job, I mean everything was very professionally done. I just wasn't expecting to pay that much for an engine, but I have said F*ck it and I am rebuilding the car from scratch. It is getting completely stripped and painted with 2004 Chevy Avalanche sport red metallic with a pearl clear... All done in Chromapremier, custom interior, everything only minor things will be reused from the original car... Which reminds me I have a bunch of parts for sale including a 700r4 if anyone is interested lol

Irocster

But that is the way to do it. You'll be so happy when it's done.

PsychoGTA

Hey Jstcrzyengh can you send me an email of the stuff you got for sale. And what engine are you getting build up? Are you changing every little part changed in the engine. Cuz i'm thinking of taking my engine there later on to wake it up a bit. Do you recommened it, taking my car there? email is element_psycho@yahoo.com
Peace Out,
PsychoGTA

Jstcrzyengh

iTrader: (2)

Hey Psycho...

I had a 355 built. Here's what I brought in and what they did:

Pistons - TRW forged
Rods - Old school pink rods
Crank - Brand new ZZ4 crank
Clevite 77 bearings al around
brass freeze plugs
Lt4 hot cam
New cloyes timing chain and cover
Cut to fit rings
BBC oil pump and pickup
350 2 bolt main block

They basically balanced and blueprinted the whole block. Deck heights notched the pistons to clear the heads (afr 195's) they did a serdi valve job, and quite a few other things. Total cost was a little over $3k with me supplying 95% of the parts. Now couldd I of gotten it done cheaper? Yes a LOT cheaper, but they have a very good reputation, and even though I feel I paid for a few things I didn't need I know I have an engine that will make a lot of HP and will last a long time.

James

Irocster

What's the difference between a double roller and single roller timing chain besides the obvious fact that the double roller has two chains? Which do I have on my engine now? What are the advantages of the double?

demonchild

lets see...

the stock l98 had a single roller timing chain. the obvoius benefit of the double roller is the fact that it is beefier. it is more resistant to stretch (did you see how worn mine single timing chain was) and is more resistant to wear. other than that it just costs more than the single one.

Irocster

But if I re-build my engine, will it accept the double roller?

Russ-So Cal

double roller timing chains come with new gears to fit.

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

I think your parents are right. If your car runs and is fairly reliable, then college is a lot more important than having 400 HP.

$2000 is a good start, but that budget will get eaten up pretty quickly. $2500 is a better, more realistic place to start and end up with about 275 to 300 HP.

Irocster

I think I'm going to set my budget (and save up for) $3,000. Of course I've already got the 350 bock and heads, so that price must include all machine work, assembly, port/polish of intake and heads, internal parts, and external parts including water pump, AC delete pulley, crank underdriven pulley, headers, 3" custom-made cat-back, all the other little details I can't think of. So it is going to take a lot of time to make careful decisions on what parts to use to keep it to that budget. $3,500 would probably be a little more realistic, but I like a challenge.

demonchild

machine work and assembly of engine back to stock specs: $2000
cat back: 200+
jet hot headers: 500+
new hoses, sensors, paint, misc: 200+
ac delete pulley: 35
underdrive pulley: 100

nice challenge. if you want everything new (which i assume you do) you will have to carefulley plan this. most of the prices above are kinda conservative.

and are you seriously going to take the ac out. if you are sell me the ac compressor so it is one less thing i have to get for the serpentine conversion.

Irocster

That is the whole point I'm getting rid of the AC. The compressor and everything else is dead. Why put it all back on a new engine? And I don't feel like spending $500 to $800 on a new AC system. And I can easily get what I want all NEW for $3500. Keep in mind, I already have the block, and want to re-use the heads and maybe the rods. You gotta be smart about this stuff Mike. Now I would bet a lot of money you are going to tell me where I can go to get a complete AC system for $50. Just watch, I don't think you can control yourself. J/K man, thanks for coming out and supporting us today, that was a good move by not scabbing. Just try hard when this is all over and you will find a job (at a store if you want.) Later.

Irocster

Oh yeah, and I'd say I've got plenty of time to plan this all out. It's not like my motor doesn't run now and I need some quick transportation. I have all year and all next summer so I'm not worried.

demonchild

well give me the ac compressor anyway so i can use it as a core for my new system. ya, im probably going to take the job after the strike so the union doesnt get their panties in a bunch. even if i did take the job, i wouldnt really care what the union thought because working at a grocery store to me is a dead end job. i just need the money right now for making the car faster.

Irocster

Working at a grocery store is a dead end job if that's the way you look at it. If you're like me, working there during college and making $15/hr. is nothing to be ashamed of. There is no way I could work with the public as a career.

demonchild

yeah...most consider dead end jobs as the ones you are not using as a career.

Irocster

Man, you've always been good at making others feel stupid huh? Hey, come over tomorrow and help me get a good reading on my TPS sensor....respond to my post on the TPI board.

slow91camaro

Here is where I got my engine work done:

Taylor Engine
8145 Byron Road "D"
Whittier, Ca
562-698-7231

Jay is the man to talk to. This shop is in the middle of an industrial area and can be a little tough to find, but there were always other costumers there when I was there. His other costumers tended to be older guys (40+) and that should tell you something about his work. This is my first rebuild and he has been very helpful explaining all the little things to me and told me to call him anytime with any problems and even loned me a ring compresser. He's not cheap, but not too expensive either. Hope this helps.

Irocster

thanks man, I'll have to give him a call