I'm thinking about finally replacing the valve seals on my 88 IROC Convertible 305 TPI. Could someone provide detailed instructions on accomplishing this tasks or even better yet is there anyone in the Long Beach, CA who's experienced in replacing the valve seals and is willing to help out a 3rd Gen friend. Also make a few $$. Let me know if you're willing to help out.

Thanks,
Joey

 

Dyno Don does it. He is a professional, but his labor rate is quite reasonable. He is near the Anaheim Pond so he is fairly close to Long Beach.

 

Hey Russ,

Have you dealt with Dyno Don? I notice everyone says nothing but good things about his shop. Anyway thanks for the information.

Post a few pics of your car..

Thanks,
Joey

 

If you decide to tackle it yourself, there is a machine shop in Signal Hill called 'Ali's Automotive Machine' on St. Louis Ave. I've taken a few heads there over the years (including the ones from my RS when I rebuilt the top end), he does good machine work and has very reasonable prices. Plus, it's one of the cleanest machine shops I've ever seen.

Dyno Don does good work also, and knows 3rd gens. like the back of his hand.

What part of Long Beach are you in? There are a few IROC 'verts in LB, perhaps I've seen you around...

 

Are you thinking about doing it with the heads still on the car? If so, here's what you'll need:
Air compressor
Air hose with spark plug fitting - Most auto parts stores sell them
Valve spring compresor

To do the job on the car you will remove the valve covers and do one cylinder at a time. It's probably easier to start with cylinder #1 and work down the driver's side first - cyls #3, #5, #7. Then jump over to the passenger side -cyls #2, #4, #6, #8.

Bring cylinder #1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) by hand turning the engine. Both valves will be fully closed in this position. You can also use the timing mark as a guide for cylinder #1. Observe the position of the valves when they are closed and it will give you a good visual referrence for setting up the rest of the cylinders.

Remove the spark plug and install the the air hose fitting. Then connect the air compressor and pressurize the cylinder. This will hold the valves in place while you remove the retainers and springs with the spring compressor. Then go ahead and replace the seals. Put it back together, disconnect the compressor and move on to the next cylinder. Repeat the procedure with the remaining cylinders.

Another trick I've heard of is to use rope instead of the air compressor. Again, you bring the cylinder to TDC, remove the spark plug, then feed the rope into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole. Pack enough rope into the cylinder to prevent the valves from falling when you remove the springs.

Take your time and plan to spend an entire afternoon doing the job.

 

Drop-Top,

I am actually located in the city of Carson however it's a Long Beach mailing address. At this time I do not want to remove the heads unitil my motor goes out. I would like to replace the seals with the heads on the car. I haven't really driven my car for the past two years. It's been sitting in the garage with expired tags. I plan on registering it within the next few days. I'll post some pics of my car soon. Please do the same.

Thanks,
Joey

 

Bret,

Thanks for the detailed explaination. I plan on replacing the seals hopefully next week.

 

I have dealt with Don on many occasions. Right now we are building a 1987 Firebird T/A. He has already built a speed density tpi harness from a tbi harness for me. We started to build a 1985 Cal. IROC, but found damage in the firewall that would be too expensive and time consuming to fix. Don had located this Firebird with a Lg4 and 5 speed. He also had bought back a wreck of a 1992 Rs that had a Vortec 350 engine with L98 heads, a brand new clutch and hydraulics, and a WC T5. Those pieces will all be going into my T/A.

 

Russ,

Let me know when you plan on visiting Don again. If you don't mind I'd like to tag along.

Thanks,
Joey