have about a half-dozen hours of research into my investigation into making a stroker motor for my 56 F-100 so I can then sell the tamer ZZ4 in there to Mike to get him up to speed and be somewhat competive

1) 5.7 or 6.0 inch rods
I know that 6.0 rods are better for power, stress, and longetivity (more desirable) but most kits are setup for the 5.7 rods, why? Is it because of clearance issues with the rods and cam/block? For the 6.0 rods do you need to run a special/smaller base circle cam?

2) rods: H or I beam?
The H-beams are stronger but seem to be heavier as well. The H-beam usually are bolted as opposed to the studded I-beam rods. Does the bolted H-beams provide anymore clearance than the I-beam?

3) 383, do they like to rev?
Does the stroker crank like to be spun or does the added weight and polar moments make it not so easily to rev? Will a 4130/4340 crank/rod help keep it together of is that overkill and a cast or 'ESP' crank be sufficient?

4) new 1-piece RMS cranks (like the eagle 4340)
do the internally balanced cranks still require a 400 balancer and special flywheel? It is a pretty silly question but maybe I'm not understanding soemthing completely. The cheaper cast or cast steel cranks are mostly still externally balanced and while, 1/2-1/3 the price, require the 400 balance and flexplate.

5) Eagle Cranks
good/decent quality or avoid at any cost? Any balance or other quality issues.

6) Camshaft
something in the 236-340 I / 240-250 E with .540-.550 lift sound about right along with a HSR or miniram. I'm looking for 440-480 crank-HP @5700-5800 RPM


7) anybody got a good rebuildable 1-piece RMS std bore 350 4-bolt roller block avalable? heck, I'll even take a good 1-piece RMS std bore 2-bolt bare roller block.

I still have to finish the EFI harness in the truck then come summer I get to work on its new engine. My goal is to take it to Fontana and Beat Vincent with a slice of Don....with my Ford


-James "doing my part for the economy..."

 

Long rods will not change the rod to cam clearance, and will only change the rod to block very, very little. The reason for most kits have 5.7s is money On a long rod kit the pistons need to have the pin very high to fit the extra stroke and longer rods and that makes the ring area very small. All three things run the price up. ( Long rods, Custom pistons and smaller race type rings )

The rod weight is not a factor in a street car the stronger the rods the better. Bolt type rods will have more cam clearance and some bolt type will let you run up to 3.800 stroke with any cam. Both types will take about the same amout of block grinding.

I have driven 3.75 stroke small blocks that rev past 8,000 rpm a 383 is 10% bigger than your 350 so you need 10% bigger heads, intake, exhaust and a little more cam to get the rpm back. On the cast, 4130, 4340 is all up to you.

Internally balanced the crankshaft has all the counter weights on it and externally balanced you have some of the weights on the balancer and flywheel. internal = 350 stuff. external = 400 stuff.

I like Scats forged cranks a lot more.

I think so, I bet you can do it with 230-236 I / 240-244 E if you have good heads.

You know a 2-bolt block with aftermarket caps is way stronger than a 4-bolt block. The factory 4-bolt blocks have the outer bolts going in to the thinest part of the block and that makes them weaker in high horsepower motors.


James you worked me on this post

Jerry

 

Thanks Jerry. I appreciate your response as I have much respect for your experience.

As for the cranks Callies (dragon slayer line) has a reasonable priced crank. I haven't got much feedback on scat's line of cranks as the eagle line seems to be more widely available. I guess 'll talk to my machine shop and see what their experience has been.

6.0 rods:
I have seen where it looks like the oil ring lands appear to intersect the wrist pin hole. Is there any reason a 6.0 rods will create a longetivity isue with regard to oil control/consumption? Are the 6.0 rods geared more for a race engine that will be torn down more frequently and therfor long-term durability is less a concern?


Since the truck doesn't have to pass smog I can do almost anything to it and because it only sees a couple thousand miles a year, gas is less an issue. I will be installing a 21-gallon tank and most likely a 4-link in the rear if I can find the time.

But who's to say if I didn't install it in my camaro for a week or two to take care of some bidness

 

Dang James,
85 Camaro, 56 F-100 and don't you also have a '60 something Mustang lurking around? Explain this starving student thing again?

 

You just explained it Bret, Too many toys prior to going to school ... typical students.

 

why bother, just drop a late 60's 428 in it. I did.

 

I keep looking for one at Ecology but I have yet to spot one

It's all about the EFI and interchangebilty with my F-body motor

 

The Dragon slayer line is like Eagles forged in china. The only dragon slayer I have seen the guy was charged $300 plus just to balance the crank. ( 9 slugs of heavy metal to get it right)

On a SBC with a 9 inch tall block and a 3.750 stroke, 6 inch rod and a .927 pin you have only .6615 for the rings. Thats not a problem in a N.A. motor that you can push the top ring up to about .150 from the top. Now when you have a power adder you need to push the top ring down to .300 from the top for the extra heat and that puts the oil ring in the pin hole. The oil ring in the pin hole is not good for oil control, But if I have to ring it every 10k thats no problem for me for someone trying to get a lot of street mile keep them out of the pin hole.

Picture of the ones in my motor.

Jerry

 

One more.

 

OK, now I've done some more research on Scat. They are located in Redondo Beach but where are the forgings made and where are they finished at?

 

Forged in the USA and finished in Redondo Beach.

The crank I got is the on the top of this page.

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/smblk...dcranks02.html

Balancing it was very easy even with the long stroke (3.800) and Carrillo rods and wiseco pistons that are on the heavy side.

Jerry