Left front sometimes pops when turning right
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Calhoun, Georgia, USA
Car: 1986 Z28
Engine: Code "H" LG4
Transmission: 700R4
Left front sometimes pops when turning right
When driving slowly in a parking lot, the left suspension area will pop, and I can feel a small jolt while making a hard right. I jacked the car up and can not find anything apparent. The left front tire is also cupping, which I've never had happen all these miles. Other than a recent strut change, nothing has been done to the suspension on this 237K mile car.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: ASHEVILLE NC
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: l98 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
actually i have a 88 iroc and when i turn right no matter what speed i feel a popping also....i wonder if this could be the same thing, i just put lowering springs on my car so maybe that would have to do with it? and yours sound like they could be sagging a bit since they have that many miles on them?
Ok guys. Here is a fact: Our cars are old. You both could probably use a front end rebuild. Heck I think about 95% of the people on this website need one (I need two of them!). Its around $300 for the parts. Things get worn after 100k miles. 237k is just crazy. I would recommend a front end rebuild and a full bushings kit. The stock suspension is actually pretty good but because all our cars are old all the parts are worn. The worn out stuff ruins the tight feeling and makes noises. I dont know what exactly would cause the popping (ball joints? maybe tie rods?) but just redo it and take care of all of it at once. Then you wont have to worry for another 100k miles.
ALSO, it is very characteristic of these cars to crack the frame rail right where the steering box is located. You will need to get under there and check it. Check it also lifted, and have a buddy slowly rock the steering wheel back and forth. If it is cracked it WILL get worse.
Buddy of mine dressed it, drilled it, welded it, and ground it down smooth all for a 6-pack of his favorite brew, and about 20 min. of his time. You will need to get a steering brace afterward (~ $40 from lonsal (on this board) excellent quality, or maybe less at the salvage yard)
Hope this helps.
Buddy of mine dressed it, drilled it, welded it, and ground it down smooth all for a 6-pack of his favorite brew, and about 20 min. of his time. You will need to get a steering brace afterward (~ $40 from lonsal (on this board) excellent quality, or maybe less at the salvage yard)
Hope this helps.
A steering box brace and wonderbar are the same thing, right?
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be broken sway bar end links. Thirty bucks and half an hour later, I have four brand new poly end links and the car handles SO much better.
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be broken sway bar end links. Thirty bucks and half an hour later, I have four brand new poly end links and the car handles SO much better.
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Auburn Pro / 3.42
Mine did the same things ended up being that the tierod bushing on the swaybar were decentigrated. Check that out first will cost about 20 bucks for polly endlinks and 30 min of your time to replace them.
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Originally posted by 91RS5speed
Mine did the same things ended up being that the tierod bushing on the swaybar were decentigrated. Check that out first will cost about 20 bucks for polly endlinks and 30 min of your time to replace them.
Mine did the same things ended up being that the tierod bushing on the swaybar were decentigrated. Check that out first will cost about 20 bucks for polly endlinks and 30 min of your time to replace them.
I think you mean the endlink bushings.
If it's not them, the only other bushings on a sway bar are the sway bar bushings. Thread
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