Well im going to fab a main hoop to start, tie it into the subframe connectors. then i will see how things progress from there. i fully intend to keep the rear seats accessable (note i didnt say comfy) and to keep the stock interior door handles. i am going to run two single door bars (4pt) then two back to the hatch area. preferably to the rear of the car with a cross bar running diagonally between them( or an x) wish me luck

 

What is going to be the purpose of this roll cage?
Drag racing, road racing, general tough looks?

With the right roll cage, the SFC's aren't needed. With SFC's you don't (really) need door bars. The stiffness is already provided with the SFC's.

From the main hoop you could go all the way back to the well and mount them to the rear frame section found there, or if you didn't reall want the rear seat, go to the top of the shock tower area.

The have someone sit in the rear seat with a roll cage and they are not protected, they'll be in danger if there is an incident.

So, what is the purpose for the 'cage?

 

Main purpose of the cage is for fabricating practice. Ive just finished a roll cage on a dune buggy, turned out looking like a sand rail and the owner was real happy. i have considered going all the way to the rear of the car with the rear tubes, but i think going to the shock towers would be the best way to go. Im not sure, im open to any opinions or expertise.

 

Couldn't agree more.I, along with my good friend the toecutter,made rollbars for 2 cars.(I fabricated them,he welded them in).I'ts really not that difficult.I used a hydraulic pipe bender,a chopsaw and a homemade tubing notcher.Both cars have the main hoop,2 bars to the back,2 to the front.Where they differ is mine has a bar across the hoop (no back seats) and the Toecutter has tied his into his (homemade by us) sfc's.Haven't yet done the X-brace ,but that may well happen soon.I say go for it my friend. :hail: :hail:

 

Here is mine... Not as elaborate, but....


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=147461

 

RU-qwik nice cage. where are your rear bars tied into?

 

yeah nice cage!

 

would subframe conecters really help in a hard top camaro with a 10 pt. cage?

 

good question. most drag cars with a 10 pt. tie the cage into the SFC's with the diagonals from the main hoop. That is the right way to do it. However, I have seen lots of stockers running only 6 point bars in the 10 sec area. (which is legal w. stock floors and firewall) But if you are going to take all the effort to do a 10 pt, might as well get the SFC's and tie it all together....

 

thanks for clearing that up now for a few more, i'm going to get a 10 pt. cage and am thinking about tubing the rear, i'm guessing it would be easiest to do this all at once? can i have SFCs with the rear tubed, or would it even be needed? are there any sites you know of that show rear tubed cars in good detail without the aluminum sheet metal covering it all? last one how dose tubing the rear affect highway and city driving?

 

Ok, first you should do everything at once. If you are going to tub the car, you will be basically building an entirely new rear suspension. this will include new frame rails. You will need a good set of SFC's (weld in type made for this sort of chassis, don't get a bolt in or tubular design made for the street). The SFC will tie the new rear frame rails to the front subframe. Backhalving, or tubbing a car is a lot of work, and not for the amateur. Better get a pro unless you have extensive fabricating experience. Check out S&W race cars, or Competition engineering. they both make rear suspension packages, and all the other stuff you will need. As for street use, other than the cage inside, it all depends on how you build the rear. Get the right shocks, springs, tires, rearend, etc. You can make it very streetable. But better have some power to spin those big meats. nothing worse than a car with big rubber and a stock motor.....

 

I plan on having a shop do most of the work, most of it I don't have the skills or tools needed to do it myself. But figure I can do the sheet metal work (I'm very picky about quality and how things look). As for the power, its going to be a slightly moded 305 for a while (don't have to worrie about breaking lose the tires with this combo.... ), I want to totaly build up the car before it gets the blown 427 I'm maping out right now. Hoping to get 800 - 900 hp out of it, hows that for a daily driver/weekend track.

 

800-900 hp on a daily driver? well, that seems a little high on the expectation list for me, but good luck. Keep us updated.

 

i really don't think so, Monty is pushing 1200 hp with his TT setup, and you can buy 427 crate motors making 650 hp with out forced induction, but in any case, its going to be a few years before i start building the motor and till then, its all planing and maping out the best combo for parts

 

Monty also spent more than $30,000 for his engine alone.
With the roll bar/suspension/frame work you're talking about, prepare to go into debt!
Good luck, tho.

 

well what do you expect when building a motor like that, trying to figure all the parts, testing and tuning... i figure it'll take about $15,000 - $18,000 for the whole thing, air cleaner to the oil pan, with the headers, when i'm done with the car it'll probibly have $30,000+ into it, witch really ain't that bad for where i sit with money right now, i'm making like $15,000 a year (after tax) and i live with parents, so the only bills i gotta worrie about is insure. and gas if only every one could be so lucky