I tried a search and i couldn't find anything. Do you guys know if the jegster 4 point roll bar will work with the back seat in. I have the back seat out now, but i might want it back someday. I dont care about rear seat comfort, I just want to know if it will go in. Thanks for any help.

 

I imagine the 4 point kit is just the lesser of the 8 and 10, most likely uses the same hoop and rear bars. The rear bars come extra long so you can make them clear the back seat if you'd like. When I put my Jegs cage in I was gonna get fancy and have the rear bars bent to the contour of the hatch then dump straight down. I wanted mine close to the shock mounts so there really was'nt much room to do the custom bends and have it look like I had envisioned. I was'nt planning on installing rear seats so I just put'em straight.

 

The 4 point bar is only cosmetic. It's legal to use any roll bar at the track until you hit 11.99 in the 1/4. You install a roll bar more to stiffen the chassis than for roll over protection. When installed properly it will do both.

A properly installed roll bar will have a rear cross brace behind the front seats. This makes getting into the back seats very difficult. You can install a 6 point bar and use swingout bars to make getting in and out of the front seats a lot easier.

When my car still had a factory steering column I tilted the steering up to give me enough room to climb over the bar. When I changed to a stripped down non tilt column I had to install a steering wheel quick coupler so I could get in and out.

If the roll bar is designed for the third gen and not just a generic roll bar then it should clear all the interior stuff unless specified (door handles etc). My 6 point bar is 70 pounds.

 

does a 6 point roll bar really help the stiffness of the car?

 

Oh boy does it ever. We had sub-frame connectors on there we fabbed up first thing after I got the car and it was better than stock, I really should've used bigger stock to begin with, but they helped. After I installed the 6 point, you can now put the jack ANYWHERE and the frickin side goes up with NO twisting anywhere. If it where gonna be a daily driver, I would cut the door bars so they'd weld to the floor board right next to the front of the driver/pass. seat, I seen a few cars in person that had them this way and it made entry/exit almost no different than if they were'nt there at all. Your gonna lose a little ridgity cause the further forward you go the more strength, but for a daily driver it'd be worth the little sacrifice in strength for ease of entry. If you've never gooten into a car with a cage there no way to explain how it's a PITA sometimes, depending on the design, and if your were doing this all the time you'd quickly cut them out, OR buy the swing out door bar kit, they average $40.00 depending on the manufactuer.

 

I have the 4 point from jegs in my car. The kit I bought was bent to clear the back seats. You will have to cut the tubing to however you want it to fit in your car. I have southside machine SFC/s. I drilled a hole where I could set the front hoop on top of the SFC and weld it in place to make it solid. It will get rid of some body flex even though its only a 4 point.

 

i second the 4 point, although i'm planning on installing swing out bars and going to 6pt before the end of 2003

 

Would a 4 or 6 point bar help a street car with around 360hp?

 

hi IHI
I take you installed the cage yourself? If so was your car siting on the wheels or was it up in the air? How do you know that the car was not in any bind? Ive have read a few articles in car craft and hot rod when they installed their cages, and each and every article was a complete contradiction to the other. Jack it up dont jack it up, leave it on the wheels dont leave it on the wheel. Im planning on installing my cage in a few weeks thats why I ask.
thanks in advance.

 

Before I did the sub frame connectors I too had read that you want all of the weight on the suspension so the car will be "at rest" so to speak, no unitentional twisting by means of jacks/jack stands on body mounts. So we had the jack stands on the rear end and under the A arms. I've also read of guys stacking cinder blocks under the tire, but I would'nt recommend it.
As for the cage it was much easier cause the car was on the ground, about as level and untwisted as it was gonna get. I just made sure when we positioned everything and made the tacks, we were not in the car, or putting weight anywhere that might have caused a twisting condition. Maybe that was a little too cautious, I don't know, it worked for me that way. Before when I'd jack up the car, you could see the front fender and door gap get a little closer, with the cage that thing is like a rock. The worst part besides playing a contortionist welding, was installing the 6x6 panels for the hoop. I tacked them into place and welded a little too far in front of where the back seat would be. When we put the torch to it so we could beat it to the contour of the radius in the rear floor pan, it literally ripped the body, so I had some good sized hole I had to go back and fill. I'm installing another one for a guy in his formula sometime this spring, my advise to him was pull out the entire interior, leave the door panels on and the seats loosely bolted by 2 nuts so you can position the door bars and not have them interfer with the door panels.
I kinda screwed myself I think cause now I'm ordering the dash, door panels, and console out of a 99 Bird to put in my car and knowing my luck the door bars are gonna hit, so I'll have to take them back out and redo them.