i was going to have my SFC's welded in today but the guy said he wouldnt do it unless i grind off the galvenised coasting on the sub frames, he said that our cars are made of galvenised steel and if he does weld them in they wont do worth a crap and probally crack the welds and fall off, is this true or false.

 

basically false but there is some logic behind what he says

 

Our cars are NOT galvanized. You can weld galvanized steel but it generates toxic fumes.

 

hey squeeks, we live near each other..i got mive welded on at austin's pro max in white center. the only thing they had to do was take off the coating on the sub frame connectors, weld, and then paint the welded/sanded areas to prevent corrosion. so when is you car going to be done...i wanna go to SIR and drag.

 

Just make sure you remove your seats, carpeting, and interior trim before they are welded in. That floorboard gets MIGHTY HOT!

 

Actually just removing the plastic doorsill trim pieces and slipping in some 2x4's or equivalent to lift the carpeting and insulation is all you'd need to do. It is always a good idea to keep a wet rag nearby and a spray bottle filled with water. That is the procedure I recommend in the installation instructions I include with the SFC's I sell.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

my car is galvenised and it was a pain to weld the sfc in, It creates alot of spaarking as the zinc burns off.

Simon

88 camaro

 

Ive heard when you weld in sfc's its BEST to have a "drive on" lift as compared to ones with "arms" that swing out. Is there any truth to this?? I personally dont see what the big deal is. The only problem I see is the actual process of welding them in. I figure it would be easier with a "drive on" lift....that way the chassis is easier to "see" as compared to one with arms. Later..

Dan

 

The reason for wanting to use a "drive-on" style lift as apposed to the frame-lift style is that the suspension (all 4 tires) must be level and loaded (full weight of the car on them) when installing the SFC's. There are other ways to accomplish this. But a drive-on style lift is the easiest and most readily available.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

Why? Is it really that important to have the car level and loaded? Mostly likely..when I get my sfc's I'l be paying somebody to weld them in. Are you saying that its a MUST to have sfc's welded on a drive on lift?? Sorry..im a little confused.

Dan

 

I said it is the easiest and most readily available. Download the instructions for the SFC's I sell and you'll see an alternate method to use if installing them at home. The SFC's are p/n 306020, listed under "Suspension/Chassis/Brakes".

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

Yes it really is THAT important to weld SFC with the suspension loaded. When you lift a car via non loaded... your car twists and is not at the same bend and flex as it would be, if you were on the ground.

Lifting while loaded, makes it just like you would at the ground. This way the SFC hold your car at it's natural position. Not one that's semi bent.

 

What ever lift you use, just check to make sure that the doors and hatch open properly when it is hoisted. Supporting your car by its frame with support points in front of the the rear axle and behind the front wheels makes the front end of the car "droop" down usually, which can cause the doors to rub when they open.

S-D

 

the last thing you want is to weld on you subframes, put the car back down in a loaded possion, and not be able to open your doors and yess i have HEARD of that happening.

just take the time to do it right, or spend the extra 100 bones and have someone else do it right

Cheers.
John

 

I jacked my car up and lowered the wheels onto building blocks so that the the car sat with its frame undistorted.
Before you tell me that that is dangerous which it is on its own. I also put some jack stands and jacks under the car aswell incase the blocks gave way.

Simon