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My Brakes Are Dying! Help!?

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Old May 24, 2003 | 11:57 PM
  #1  
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From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
My Brakes Are Dying! Help!?

I have the stock brakes on my car that i am aware of ( im new to the scene only 16 got the car 6 months ago). It has four wheel disk brakes but i dont think it is the 1LE Package. Well How do i check. and also what size are the fornt and back disks?

My brakes are macking such a horrible sound it is making me cringe. When i hit the brakes in the past it would squeek a little but now it is making a horrigle grinding sound from all four wheels. I just infested a lot of money into an exhaust system for my car so i thought i would wait and get the new Disks and pads next but do you thing is cant wait or should i bee safe for a month or two if i can put up with the noise. Also when i let off the brakes it still rubs, like the pad is not setting rite, what is that.

ALso i am looking for what kind of disks and pads to get and how much it is going to caust me. I wand somethign decently high performance but i do not own a bank ( 16 again). I am thinking the powerslot ones or some cross drilled ones or ones with both of thoes features. I drive pritty hard and am doing dragracing this summer so i need the stopping power for that

Why cant i find performace rear disks for my car?

I cant find these disks for my car all you see are the front ones. Where can i find them and for the front and the back what do you suggest.

Also what is up with the quolity of pads i want good ones but what are good ones and what makes them good i have heard about break dust and life time and things like that but is that what is important?

Thanks for all of the help!

Just another new guy trying to stop his head from spinning,

Raptere

aka Eli J

Thanks again!


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Old May 25, 2003 | 04:08 AM
  #2  
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Re: My Brakes Are Dying! Help!?

Check your RPO codes to find out if you have 1LE, it will be listed on the sticker (service parts Identification, located underneath your console lid, or in the rear locking compartment in the hatch). Horrible grinding sounds usually mean the pads have worn down to nothing and the metal backing that supports the pads is now pressing against your rotor. My suggestion: Get new pads as soon as you can, if you don't want to have to replace your rotors right away. If you are looking for performance brakes, go to www.nextgenparts.com , they have some packages there for thirdgens, but I'm not too sure about the rear wheels. Be forewarned, they are expensive. Most of the "better" brake pad sets that you buy have a lifetime warranty on them, and (I don't remember exactly on this one) the full metallic pads are the ones you want to go for, they offer the best performance and most life out of them. I think you will probably have to get your rotors resurfaced if your pads are grinding in to them right now. Most shops will charge a reasonable price to have them done (my local shop charges about $6 per rotor). If you let off the brakes and can still hear grinding, I would say you have a caliper starting to go bad. If you have single piston calipers, those aren't too expensive to replace, but the dual piston setups can get costly ($50 per rebuilt caliper, last time I checked). Hope that helps you out.
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Old May 25, 2003 | 02:13 PM
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raptere's Avatar
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From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
That was really helpfull thanks a lot!
But what companys make high quolity rotors i have been looking at the ssbc ones and also i have been looking at the baer ones which are much more expensive. What about the gm performace part ones and the power stop rotors and pads, as well as the

You also said that my rotors may be going bad. Did you say thay can just be rebuilt? Who can do this rebuilding for me and how much will it caust or would it be best to get new ones and how do you know if you have amunimum or iron calipers. What kind should i get if i do get new ones.

Thanks again!

Raptere
Eli J.

Last edited by raptere; May 25, 2003 at 03:12 PM.
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Old May 25, 2003 | 08:40 PM
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
The companies out there that make the parts are all decent, it's just a matter of personal preference, and of course, funding to do so. SSBC seems to be a good one, as well as baer. I really haven't heard about GM's performance rotors, so I can't offer too much there. Rotors can be resurfaced, if they are within tolerances. A local parts store that does machine work should be able to do that for you, so just call around until you find one that can. Calipers can be rebuilt, but if you go to autozone or wherever, they won't rebuild your existing ones, they will give you a set of rebuilt ones in exchange for your old ones. Aluminum or cast iron? simple, if the caliper feels lightweight, it's probably aluminum. Stick a magnet to it, if it doesn't hold, you've got aluminum calipers. If it holds, you've got the cast iron. I don't really know the code or years for the aluminum calipers. Hope that gives you some more info.
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Old May 26, 2003 | 12:54 AM
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I've had that same problem with my car. It always happens when you say how well your car is running right? I was like, everything is great, my brakes are even awesome. Two weeks later I started to hear this squealing sound when I was driving. I took off my front tire and saw that the breaks were really worn down that the metal piece was grinding against the caliper. It's an indicator for when you need to change your pads. If you don't change it asap you will tear apart your caliper which is a very big deal so you need to get this done immediately. Good luck with it all.
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Old May 26, 2003 | 12:00 PM
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
If you are changing your front brakes and rotors, don't forget to repack your wheelbearings while you are there, it's an easy job, and it saves from having to do it some other time. You'll need to buy rotor wheel bearing seals for the back of the rotors, which are like $1.87 a piece. Inexpensive.
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Old May 26, 2003 | 04:38 PM
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raptere's Avatar
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From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
I am unclear on what that exactly meens and how do go about doing it. Is it something a new person to the car world will be able to do? An explaination would be great!
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Old May 27, 2003 | 05:44 PM
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Raptere, I sent you a PM with all the info you should need.
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Old May 31, 2003 | 12:26 AM
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raptere's Avatar
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From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
Hey i just got my car back i decided to go with all new hawk pads all around and new stock size crodium coted slotted "Power Slot" Rotors up front. Feels a hundered and one percent better and makes me now think more about the gripping of my tires especially without antilock.

Thanks for all the help guys, it has been lots of help!

Raptere
Eli J.
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Old Jun 1, 2003 | 08:17 AM
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From: Northwestern Pennsylvania
Car: 1985 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 with stuffs.
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 Posi
Sounds good. What did the final price tag run you for the parts?
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Old Aug 25, 2003 | 11:00 PM
  #11  
raptere's Avatar
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From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
I love the new brakes and they ran about 108 per roter i got the front two and i cant remember the pad prices got it all of thunder racing though you should be able to check the price for them.

now about two months after i got them installed i am finding them to squeek very slightly after they have wormed up and on light braking but not the warning that continues after you have released the brakes what would you suggest?


raptere
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 08:50 AM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
C4 brakes....budget minded setup and they stop real good...


Ed
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