Anyone with poly engine mounts post your thoughts
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Costal Alabama
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Anyone with poly engine mounts post your thoughts
I am thinking about putting poly engine mounts under my new engine but I don't want it to feel like there is a broken washing machine under the hood when I am sitting at stoplights. Did you guys notice a difference in vibration you switched over to poly?
Also is there any difference between Prothane's mounts and Energy Suspension’s mounts other then cost?
Also is there any difference between Prothane's mounts and Energy Suspension’s mounts other then cost?
#2
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i noticed that they raised the engine a slight amount over the worn out stockers....but i think that it really just brought the motor up to stock height. I do not notice any new vibrations going with the swap, although my motors always have a slight lope...possibly a mis-fire
I bought the ES mounts to mention which ones I got.
I bought the ES mounts to mention which ones I got.
#4
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
No problems here, Luke. Like xpndbl said, it raised it up a bit, just enough for my SLPs to hit the steering shaft, but no big deal. I used the ES pieces too.
Ed
Ed
#5
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Car: 1987 Camaro Z28
Engine: 335 TPI Stroker
Transmission: Tremec TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt / 3.42
I got Energy Suspension poly motor mounts and trans mount. Everything works awesome, no bad vibrations, or anything of that matter.
#8
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I'm the process right now of putting the ES mounts in my car. Started out alright, the new mounts went in fine, took about 2 hours total to get to the point where I was ready to set the engine back down on the new mounts, but thats where things went south. For some reason, the way the mounts are made that bolt to the engine, they wouldn't sit down on the new mounts all the way, they were about a 1/2" too high. I've been screwing with them for the past 2 hours, pulling them off, grinding it down a little, bolting it back on, getting pissed when it didn't work, and repeating. I don't know what the deal is or why my car is like this, because I've never heard of anything like this with the mounts before. I'll get back on tomorrow and give my opinion once I'm driving the car.
#11
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http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1069
Polyurethane Motor Mounts (82-92) - $ 35.95
not ES but another great poly maker.
Polyurethane Motor Mounts (82-92) - $ 35.95
not ES but another great poly maker.
#13
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Originally posted by xpndbl3
are you sure you don't have the mounts in backwards? there is a certain way to place them into the clamshells and can cause misalignment if put in backwards.
are you sure you don't have the mounts in backwards? there is a certain way to place them into the clamshells and can cause misalignment if put in backwards.
#14
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Love em. 3.5 years now and they're rock solid. I did however loose one of the transmission to mount bolts after a year. That wasn't cool but nothing was damaged .
I would upgrade to poly everything that can't squeek . Poly suspension parts on the street NEED to have zirk fittings or forget it. It becomes junk, loose rattle crap and I'm not exagerating. This is one of my biggest pet peeves is something so cheap as a zirk fitting being looked over for dry lubricant .
Again, motor mounts and trans mounts shouldn't seen any metal contact that is in friction hence no issues. I also think the poly is better for the engine and drivetrain. It doesn't let things move as much resulting in a straighter engine to pinion/torque arm mount on the pumpkin = better launchs.
I would upgrade to poly everything that can't squeek . Poly suspension parts on the street NEED to have zirk fittings or forget it. It becomes junk, loose rattle crap and I'm not exagerating. This is one of my biggest pet peeves is something so cheap as a zirk fitting being looked over for dry lubricant .
Again, motor mounts and trans mounts shouldn't seen any metal contact that is in friction hence no issues. I also think the poly is better for the engine and drivetrain. It doesn't let things move as much resulting in a straighter engine to pinion/torque arm mount on the pumpkin = better launchs.
#15
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Car: 1995 Pontiac Firebird and 1978 Pontiac Grand LeMans
Engine: 3.4L and a true 5.0L (305ci do the math!)
Transmission: standard and auto
I switched my transmission mount to an energy suspension one and my car sounds like it is running with no exhaust and vibrates like hell. Check my thread out and help me if you can!!!
#18
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Originally posted by joshwilson3
What is this zirk fitting that you are talking about? I thought all that you had to do with poly bushings is replace your old rubber ones and put the grease on the to keep them from squeaking. Is there something else?
What is this zirk fitting that you are talking about? I thought all that you had to do with poly bushings is replace your old rubber ones and put the grease on the to keep them from squeaking. Is there something else?
The grease doesn't last forever on open bushings. Only sealed bushings/bearings keep the grease in them for the life of the bearing. The grease does last a while but not nearly long enough. I've found my front sway bar has had issues with squeezing the grease right out of the bushing! This part of my car see's a lot of abuse. With the 36mm hollow bar I was able to break BOTH bushing keepers. They didn't just "break" they snapped into 2 pieces each only enough to keep the sway bar from falling to the ground and dragging. You can see that grease doesn't stand much of a chance, hence the purchase of Spohn's greasable front sway bar bushings. Expensive but worth it.
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