I am thinking about putting poly engine mounts under my new engine but I don't want it to feel like there is a broken washing machine under the hood when I am sitting at stoplights. Did you guys notice a difference in vibration you switched over to poly?

Also is there any difference between Prothane's mounts and Energy Suspension’s mounts other then cost?

 

i noticed that they raised the engine a slight amount over the worn out stockers....but i think that it really just brought the motor up to stock height. I do not notice any new vibrations going with the swap, although my motors always have a slight lope...possibly a mis-fire

I bought the ES mounts to mention which ones I got.

 

Poly mounts will also give you a few horsepower.
Sound silly? I know.

 

No problems here, Luke. Like xpndbl said, it raised it up a bit, just enough for my SLPs to hit the steering shaft, but no big deal. I used the ES pieces too.


Ed

 

I got Energy Suspension poly motor mounts and trans mount. Everything works awesome, no bad vibrations, or anything of that matter.

 

poly engine and trans mounts here and every thing is nice and smooth.

 

Like the guys said. See sig.

JamesC

 

I'm the process right now of putting the ES mounts in my car. Started out alright, the new mounts went in fine, took about 2 hours total to get to the point where I was ready to set the engine back down on the new mounts, but thats where things went south. For some reason, the way the mounts are made that bolt to the engine, they wouldn't sit down on the new mounts all the way, they were about a 1/2" too high. I've been screwing with them for the past 2 hours, pulling them off, grinding it down a little, bolting it back on, getting pissed when it didn't work, and repeating. I don't know what the deal is or why my car is like this, because I've never heard of anything like this with the mounts before. I'll get back on tomorrow and give my opinion once I'm driving the car.

 

are you sure you don't have the mounts in backwards? there is a certain way to place them into the clamshells and can cause misalignment if put in backwards.

 

what is the average asking price for a set of the ES ones as opposed to OEM rubber ones?

 

http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1069

Polyurethane Motor Mounts (82-92) - $ 35.95

not ES but another great poly maker.

 

I have them also and I love them. the onyl downside was that the engine does sit higher. This made my STB not fit at all and I had to sell it. I did mine while the engine wwas out so it wasnt that bad.

 

Definitely didn't put them in backwards. I checked before I bolted them down, bars on either side of the bolt hole were vertical. I dont know what the deal was, but I basically had to notch the mount on either side of the tab with the bold hole. I looked at the original mounts, which were shot beyond belief, and they didn't appear any different as far as the location of the bars in comparison to the bolt hole. Oh well, they are in now, vibrations are gone, all is well. It was funny, when I took the original mounts out, you could shake the clamshell and hear the mount rattling around inside of it. Only problem is now my exhaust rubs on the frame somewhere since the engine sits higher. Gotta find that tomorrow.

 

Love em. 3.5 years now and they're rock solid. I did however loose one of the transmission to mount bolts after a year. That wasn't cool but nothing was damaged .
I would upgrade to poly everything that can't squeek . Poly suspension parts on the street NEED to have zirk fittings or forget it. It becomes junk, loose rattle crap and I'm not exagerating. This is one of my biggest pet peeves is something so cheap as a zirk fitting being looked over for dry lubricant .
Again, motor mounts and trans mounts shouldn't seen any metal contact that is in friction hence no issues. I also think the poly is better for the engine and drivetrain. It doesn't let things move as much resulting in a straighter engine to pinion/torque arm mount on the pumpkin = better launchs.

 

I switched my transmission mount to an energy suspension one and my car sounds like it is running with no exhaust and vibrates like hell. Check my thread out and help me if you can!!!

 

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Love 'em.

Tim

 

A zirk fitting taps into the metal right in the middle of the bushing. This is a one way valve for grease guns making life easy. They're usually small and should come with a red cap to protect them if they are on a low spot on the car.
The grease doesn't last forever on open bushings. Only sealed bushings/bearings keep the grease in them for the life of the bearing. The grease does last a while but not nearly long enough. I've found my front sway bar has had issues with squeezing the grease right out of the bushing! This part of my car see's a lot of abuse. With the 36mm hollow bar I was able to break BOTH bushing keepers. They didn't just "break" they snapped into 2 pieces each only enough to keep the sway bar from falling to the ground and dragging. You can see that grease doesn't stand much of a chance, hence the purchase of Spohn's greasable front sway bar bushings. Expensive but worth it.