Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

wheel stud swap

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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:14 AM
  #1  
akamoose's Avatar
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From: colorado
Car: 92 RS
Engine: 3.1V6
Transmission: 700R4
wheel stud swap

I want to swap out my front wheel studs to ones that are 1/2" longer. I know the thread size but I don't know the other specs on what the standard studs are, I don't want to take my car apart until I have parts to put it back together. So if anyone can tell me the measurements of the standard stud, and who sells longer ones I'd appreciate it.
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:22 AM
  #2  
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From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
arp makes ones that are 2.5" iirc. i know dorman makes them, but i dont know the length
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:51 AM
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Holio's Avatar
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From: Orange, CA
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 305 L69
Transmission: 700R4
Here's a source:

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=6&pcid=148
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 02:22 PM
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
The Dorman ones I get from Napa are the ones you want. You'll have to redrill the hole sout to install the ARP studs since they have a larger knurl diameter.


Ed
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 08:43 PM
  #5  
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by ebmiller88
The Dorman ones I get from Napa are the ones you want. You'll have to redrill the hole sout to install the ARP studs since they have a larger knurl diameter.


Ed
Ed, Mine pulled right in, no drilling required. They were the .509" Knurl. I just used spare lugnuts to pull them into the rotors with my air rachet, Then used new lugs when mounting the wheels.
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:26 PM
  #6  
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Wow...Ok Dean...I cracked 2 hubs by not drilling the holes out a bit larger to .484"

Ed
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 11:51 PM
  #7  
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by ebmiller88
Wow...Ok Dean...I cracked 2 hubs by not drilling the holes out a bit larger to .484"

Ed
Were the ones you tried 1LE rotors or standard 10.5" rotors? Mine were the little 10.5's that I installed the ARP studs on. Wondering if the 1LE's have more face meat, or maybe even stronger quality metal.

I also pulled them into the rear axle flanges quite easily without drilling. No problems on the rear either.
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 08:06 AM
  #8  
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Standard rotors. The 1LE rotors have a LOT more metal so it's not as much of a concern.


Ed
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 08:24 AM
  #9  
Dewey316's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
I also drilled mine out when I installed. I have the .509 Knoll studs (ARP - 7708). Although I didn't even try without drilling. (on standard 10.5", that were already cut down for the brake swap.)
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 09:23 AM
  #10  
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
only thing I can assume is that the front rotors I installed the ARP studs into were from Powerslot. After owning these rotors for awhile and realizing their poor metal quality (warping very very easily), one can only conclude that the metal is much softer on these than the stock GM rotors. Has to be why I didn't have a problem but everyone else has so far. I have also stated in other posts to NOT buy Powerslot rotors- I know I will never again.
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