Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

another tubbing thread.....

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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 12:12 AM
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F-Body Tim's Avatar
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From: Round Lake,IL
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700R4
another tubbing thread.....

well i have searched on this and only found how hard it is on the rear and the main thing you need is a good welder and $$$$... but anyone tub out the front, cuz i need to fit some road race wheels and tires up front and out back... my friend is the one who can weld and fab but i think the one thing we got goin for us is a couple of third gens layin around the shop.. lol
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 12:16 AM
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F-Body Tim's Avatar
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From: Round Lake,IL
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700R4
forgot to tell you the wheel size i am goin with... mabey

FRONT: 18x10 6.75 b/s
REAR: 18x13 9.75 b/s

FIKSE FM/5

EDIT:i have been callin fikse and e-mailing the and they got a quote comein for the wheels i want.. so i'll let you guys know...

Last edited by F-Body Tim; Aug 12, 2004 at 01:50 AM.
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 12:54 AM
  #3  
F-Body Tim's Avatar
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From: Round Lake,IL
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 T.P.I.
Transmission: 700R4
should i do more dish in the back???
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 02:31 AM
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92droptop's Avatar
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From: Spring Valley, NY : Atlanta, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 3.1
Transmission: Auto
I don't think i've ever seen fronts "tubbed" Whenever you look at autocross audis and other cars like that it just looks like they put huge fender flares on the car to be able to stuff huge tires underneath and still be able to turn lock to lock without rubbing.
Here's what i'm talking about. The audi's on the left are autocross audi's the top one from the GT class of the speed world Challenge and the bottom one is from the German touring championship (DTM). The cars on the right are the factory original a4 and s4 (top and bottom respectively)

Hope this helps for what its worth
Attached Thumbnails another tubbing thread.....-audi-comparison.jpg  
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 07:18 AM
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Dewey316's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
The problem with 'tubbing' the front, is it isn't the inner fender that you need to clearance. the struts and tie rods cause clearance issues before any sheet metal does.

FWIW, there are a couple of people who stuff 18x11 under the fronts of our cars.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 03:30 PM
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From: Southern Maryland
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
maby you would be better off with the "wide Body" kit.
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Old Oct 20, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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From: New York
Car: Trans am
i think tubbing the rear and getting the widebody kit is the way to go . People get 17x9.5 in the front all the time , with 5.5 bs . If you go the wide body kit you could probably go to an 11 inch wide and then have to clearance some room out to get it to go lock to lock . But for 13s on the back , kandiedz had 18x10 on his car and they looked stock so with some work and a widebody kit it could look right .
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 02:30 PM
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From: michigan
that's some crazy backspacing.....

you would need to work the fenders more then anything and use a wide body kit. something like this.
Attached Thumbnails another tubbing thread.....-marlboro.jpg  
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Old Oct 21, 2004 | 02:32 PM
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From: michigan
or this..the front strut assembly would have to be changed otherwise. the rears on the otherhand could easily be done with some tank work and minitubbing but you couldn't do the fronts wider then 11" without the above.

one things for certain you had better only be racing the car as driving it on the street with anything other then perfect pavement would be terrible. not to mention the amount of power you would have to run to have it out accelerate a car with less and narrow wheels.

would look cool if done right though.

Attached Thumbnails another tubbing thread.....-widebodyred.jpg  
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