92MaroRS

i know how to get to them, and i have purchased a set of Prothane Polyurethane bushings, and i would like to know the easiest way to get the old ones out and the new ones in?

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Use a die grinder with an abrasive blade. Cut the core, then it will easily press out. I used a hydraulic press to push the new ones in. Be carefull to support the inner surface properly so you don't bend (collapse) it. I have a cheap fix for that if you find you did.

Lon

92MaroRS

whats that? something i can do rightaway? because when i do this im gonna need it done in one day.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

As mentioned before I used a hydraulic press to push in the new bushings. But the a-arm wasn't supported well enough I guess. When I went to install it in the car I discovered the a-arm had closed up a little.

Here's my simple fix: I went to Home Depot and got a 2' piece of all-thread (largest size that would fit through the bushing ID), heavy duty washers and nuts. I lubed the all-thread with some grease, then slipped it into the ID of the bushings installing washers and nuts on the inner surfaces. Then I turned the nuts until it spread the a-arm open enough to install. I over corrected a bit to allow for spring-back. Then I cleaned up the all-thread nuts & washers and returned them to Home Depot. Shh!

Lon

92MaroRS

now do the factory bushings have the same metal outer shell that these Prothanes have? or do i not use the metal shell? or what?

CrazyHawaiian

I didnt have access to any presses or anything so I just took the a-arms to the shop that does my alignment. They installed the PST front a-arm bushings as well as the balljoints for $40. Putting them back on tonight ...

PhLaXuS

Old rubber likes to stick to the old case shell. I torched the bushing cases until the rubber inside could be pushed out with a press. Then I used my dremel to place a small nick in the inside of the case where it contacts the control arm & went nuts on the outside of the old shell with a hammer & chisel. It was pretty easy to pull the old shells, but getting the new ones in were EVIL! After spending maybe 2 days trying, I went to a race shop & paid them $15 to press new ones in, but (as I've stated elsewhere here) the shop almost broke their 4 ton hydaulic press getting the new bushings in. In hindsight, It would have been worth it to buy new tubular arms just because they come with new bushings. If I had to do it again, I'd pull the arms and give them to a shop to begin with and save the headache for a later day...

spartyon

just for reference, harbor freight has this tool on sale at 20 bucks and it is amazing. i used it to press my front and rear control arm bushings in and out. it worked very well and went in/out very smoothly.

83ChevCamaro

What tool?

83ChevCamaro

Never mind didn't see the link

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill out as much of the old bushings as I could, then used my jigsaw to "connect the dots" so to speak to get the old ones out. I cut the outer shells out using my dremel. I used the same tool linked above to press the new ones in.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Harbor Freight fail: SORRY, NO ITEMS FOUND FOR ''38335''

vortec350s10

What worked for me was to drill a hole near the outside through the rubber bushing and when the bit rubbed on the ID of the hole, the drill bit walked around the OD of the rubber and due to the flutes it walked the rubber bushing right out. The bit was a smaller one, maybe 1/4" or so.

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

I burned out the rubber, then collapsed the sleeves.
Usually I use my 12 ton shop press for this sort of things but I found these arms just don't fit so I used my OTC ball joint press (a heavy duty c clamp with press fittings). Worked great. The key is you have to insert some solid spacers in the gap between the two "prongs" so they don't squeeze together. I used press arbors and metal shims.
One of the bushing sleeves is flared by the factory after being pressed in. Makes it a bit more challenging to get out. The fsm says to reflare the new sleeve, but I just can't see why it's necessary so I didn't bother.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have done this as well, just use a drill bit and run it around the OD of the bushing gently working the bit down as it goes around. The rubber walks right out.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Given the difficulty of this job, I just take my removed A-arms to a chassis/alignment shop and have them do it. I had them put in my ball joints while they did the bushings and it cost me $60 or something.