If anyone has any ideas, I'd appriciate it... I have a Spohn adjustable torque arm on my Camaro and it hits the tranny tunnel right above where it mounts to the rearend. I have adjusted the torque arm, checked it twice, I have adjusted the sway bar endlinks, and the lowering springs are out from the rear. It's about to poke through the backseat, so somebody who has some ideas, lay them on me. Here's some pics of what I'm talking about. I don't think I can switch holes without hitting the u-joints, but I could be wrong. Any ideas are appriciated.

 

Here is another pic of the tunnel. (The back of the car on the driver's side)

 

Last pic, to show which holes I'm using.

 

hard to tell from the pics, but is the torque arm angled down when the suspension is fully loaded? If not, it should be.

How low is your ride? I'm guessing it's slammed or you are running some very soft springs in the back.

 

Might want to shift the rear over to the pass side (adj panhard).

 

It's got stock spring under it. It had 1" lowering springs and was hitting harder/quicker, but it is still hitting with the stock springs. The panhard bar is ceneter, I measured the wheels with a plumb bob and it's equal on both sides.

 

How are your rear shocks? I know before I switched to the Koni Red's ine used to hit alot with stock iroc springs.

 

So.....what's new

 

I used a grinder to radius the portion of the mounting bracket that was contacting the tranny tunnel. That buys a small amount of clearance, but probably not enough in your case. I bought my torque arm years ago before they came with different mounting hole options. I had to drill a new set of holes that pulled in the torque arm towards the passenger side without interfering with the yoke/u-joint/driveshaft. Flip the bolts securing the arm to mount around so that the bolt heads are towards the differential and the nuts are towards the drivers side.

Adjustable length LCAs will allow you to move the differntial mounting location backward in the vehicle. Obviously, there's limits on how far you can go.

Doing all these things allow me to run the Spohn arm with 1" lowering springs without contacting the floorpan in normal use.

 

Same problem I have, and Dean has too.

BFH and a few wacks and shes fixed

 

So basically be glad it came on the car when I bought it and go find a stock one, huh?

Anybody wanna buy a Spohn Torque arm?

 

No, that is a way better part then stock ever thought about. Hammer that section in and/or grind a bit on that cornor of the torque arm to fix it.

If you want to pull it off, thats your choice. But stock would be the very last part I would put on. Before you sell it, try another part and see how much of a difference it makes, then decide if that dent on the bottom side is worth the traction and grip you will loose by not having it. I mean, the dent is already there, you cant remove it, so leave the part its self.

 

I have the same problem and don't think it's a big deal as long as it doesn't go thru.I believe it happened with the stock springs being weak but not sure if the lowering springs are hurting it too

 

I think Im having the same problem. I hear this banging noise from the rear of my car when I take off from a dead stop from medium to hard acceleration. its been way to cold to get under the car and investigate right now. I am running eibach pro kit springs in the rear with KYB shocks.
I guess the only fix to this is a BFH and some grinding huh? I will see what I can do andif I come up with something different to fix the problem, I will post.

 

Mine has the same problem but it's "clearanced" itself after a few of these...

 

EVIL, Thats funny as heck, something to be said about performance clearancing....lol. Man that thing looks like it hooks, you must bust some 60ft times....

 

Doesn't hook as well as it should, the tires are old as the hills. I did a massive burnout on them and got my best 60ft, 1.79 Friend with brand new tires was doing 1.60's.