Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

An alternative to spherical rod ends?

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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 12:34 AM
  #1  
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
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An alternative to spherical rod ends?

Has anyone heard of johnny joints? I've only seen them used in custom offroad apps. (Actually I'm ordering a couple for my blazer's suspension). Currie enterprises makes 'em.

They're cheaper than rod ends, they're rebuildable, they offer more movement than standard rod ends. The only down side is they obviously won't be as rigid because they're using a poly bushing...

Thoughts?
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:58 AM
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Car: 2011 Ranger
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IMO they'd probably be good for a street car. The poly will give a little more cushion to the ride to smooth out the steet. I've heard of them (and seen pics) on some of the off-road truck sites that I'm on, but I haven't heard of anyone using JJ's for a car. I'll have to search around and see if anyone has actually done it, and what they think of it.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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From: Ocean Springs, MS
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: HSR 383 AFR180/268XFI EBL
Transmission: 200-4R, Edge 2800 L/U
Axle/Gears: 7.5/3.73/PowerTrax No-Slip
Check out these from Suicide Doors and these from Rubicon Express. The Suicides are much like a Johnny Joint using rubber as the races, but the Rubicons use delrin for races. Also, the Rubicons use a threaded cap on one side as opposed to snap rings on both sides.

I had Suicide make some lower trailing arms for my Monte, but havent gotten them on the car yet for any feedback. Maybe within the next few week, though.

Dustin
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:59 AM
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you can buy poly bushed rod ends from most street rod shops. Basically just like regular rod ends, only urethane bushed...I like poly for street tires more than anything. It gives a little cushion, helping trction on street tires. Solid rod ends seem to hit the tires too hard, causing wheel spin...

note: I'm talking drag racing wise...
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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From: LA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Holley MPFI, AFR 195, Hot Cam=375HP
Transmission: T-56
These could be a really dumb questions, but here it goes.
These bushings are the press-out kind right? I know the 3rd gen front bushings press-out, the rear ones do as well?
Does the aftermarket use the same size bushings stock ones do (hotchkis, spohn, lakewood)?
It looks like they make a small and large bushing for jeeps, which ones are interchangeable with which 3rdgen bushings. Thx

Quote:
Check out these from Suicide Doors and these from Rubicon Express.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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^ The joints we're talking about are designed for use primarily with linked suspension (ie 3-link, 4-link, etc), but can also be used on tubular stock-similar control arms. They're not something that you would use in the front end of an F-Body Normally, they are used for off-road trucks because you get TONS of articulation with them (more than heim joints), and since they are rebuildable/serviceable, they last longer than regular heim joints as well.

So, basically, if you're building a tough-**** suspension for the back, than these joints could be a good idea to look into. The front would require just bushings (not joints), so you'd have to find those elsewhere
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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From: LA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Holley MPFI, AFR 195, Hot Cam=375HP
Transmission: T-56
So these would be decent replacements for the rear LCAs and the PHR and that's it.

How about which size.
Quote:
It looks like they make a small and large bushing for jeeps, which ones are interchangeable with which 3rdgen bushings.

Thanks.
Ben
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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From: Ocean Springs, MS
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: HSR 383 AFR180/268XFI EBL
Transmission: 200-4R, Edge 2800 L/U
Axle/Gears: 7.5/3.73/PowerTrax No-Slip
Suicide only uses one size. I had them custom make me a set of lower trailing arms (same length as F-body by the way) because I figured the poly races would help keep some chassis noise from the cabin, yet still keep the rear from feeling sloppy.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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I'm guessing that which size and bolt you go with is really up to you. Maybe as more knowledgable people read this thread, they'll maybe have some good recommendations on what size to go with. I know that there are quite a few sizes (specified in inches) for the Johnny Joints found here BTW
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 12:01 AM
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
These are better http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm

I used them on my custom made tubular LCA's and panhard rod for the body attachment side.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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From: Ocean Springs, MS
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: HSR 383 AFR180/268XFI EBL
Transmission: 200-4R, Edge 2800 L/U
Axle/Gears: 7.5/3.73/PowerTrax No-Slip
Originally posted by ME Leigh
These are better http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm

I used them on my custom made tubular LCA's and panhard rod for the body attachment side.
Those dont look like they would articulate very well. Also, a big plus to the Suicide joint, Rubicon joint, and Johnny Joints are that they are basically sealed from the weather. When less trash gets into the joint, the longer it will last.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 03:50 PM
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They look to me like standard rod ends. IMO you could end up causing a lot of binding in the suspension with those if you run a decent sized motor.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by Shagwell
ME Leigh - those were what I was talking about. - Perfect! why do any of you need a rock-crawling articulating suspension under an f-body? and if you do ... You can use those rod ends and the "swedged 3/4 tubes" available from many chassis shops to make some cheap, really good, adjustable LCA's. For what I've ftested, the urethane really helps keep street tires planted at the line. You need the poly to take a little "hit" outta the tires. - also, if you have a suspension that binds, its not because of the joint, it's because of the design(as in ****-poor design)...if it's being used as it's designed, it should never bind or it was designed wrong.
Yeah, thanks for the technical input there, Mr. Chassis Designer.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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From: Ocean Springs, MS
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: HSR 383 AFR180/268XFI EBL
Transmission: 200-4R, Edge 2800 L/U
Axle/Gears: 7.5/3.73/PowerTrax No-Slip
Originally posted by Shagwell
- also, if you have a suspension that binds, its not because of the joint, it's because of the design(as in ****-poor design)...if it's being used as it's designed, it should never bind or it was designed wrong.
Suspension bind is the reason that GM used U-channel with rubber bushings in the trailing arms on The F-bodies. The arms are not parallel; so, if they are solid bushed you'll encounter bind. So, I guess all F-bodies have a **** poor design.
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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GM used the slider because the torque arm has a different mount location than the control arms, therefore it has a different radius of travel. The slider eliminates this problem.

Yes, I do build custom chassis'. It's what I enjoy. I read every suspension book I can get my hands on(well, mostly drag race, but several others...) and I get as much hands on as possible. I've desgined/built 3 complete chassis now and am working on a 4th. I also crew on 2 10.5 outlaw drag cars, and low 5 sec(1/8) mild blower car. my vert does 1.6X(best of 1.66) 60fts on 17's w/ a manual trans. -With the new chassis I'm going for a 1.4X 60ft on 17's. we'll see if I get there...
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