sjc115

iTrader: (3)

I am getting ready to do a complete front end suspension rebuild (tie rods, ball joints, springs, struts, idler, drag link, control arm bushings) this spring/summer and I am considering buying some specialty tools like a spring compresser (my local autoparts store does not do the free rental thing). I don't want to buy anything that is not necessary for the job, so here is my question:

What is the best type of spring compresser to use when working on the front of a 3rd gen, Inside compresser (bolt up through the centerof spring) or Outside compresser (2 units, each with their own bolt spaced 180 degrees apart on outside of spring)?

Are there any other special tools I should not be without (I already have a pickle fork)?

Camaroguy18

I hate them all in general lol....like playing with a loaded gun. But I used one that when up throught the spring....felt somewhat safer


I rented it at autozone

MrDude_1

for your car, you will need the kind that goes up in the center.


if you're using stock length springs, you may not need a compressor.
if you're using lowering springs, you will not need a compressor.
if you're using drag springs, you need a compressor, however, you only need to compress it until its about the height of a stock spring.



the #1 trick i learned is, put the spring in the TOP pocket, then tilt it so the inside edge is in the lower pocket.. then use a jack to raise the LCA...
as long as you use that trick, its really easy and alot safer.


since you will own this compressor, you'll probly want to take care of it... oil the threads before using it, and oil the slider/bearings that the hex head uses.. i usually use marvel mystery oil... but mostly because i already have it and i like how it smells... lol.

btw, if you cant turn the compressor by hand with a ratchet, you're pulling on it too hard... if the spring is that stiff, then it should already be short enough to fit.

sjc115

iTrader: (3)

I am just replacing stock sport coupe springs with stock Iroc springs, so it looks like I shouldn't need the compresser.

Thanks for the advice!

Camaroguy18

I used a compressor on my 20 yr old sport coupe springs...and the first one I took out got loose from not seating the compressor correctly....it had enough bit in it left to scare the sh*t out of me when it broke loose....

hoogabooga

iTrader: (1)

I put my hotchkis springs on withoput a compressor. I rented one but after tightening it down some i chickened out. It is a pain to get the a-arm bolts lined up but it can be done.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I used a set of jackstands, a floor jack and a gf/helper to lean on the car


Fronts are easy
Put the front up on stands pretty high and let the wheel sag fully extended, then put the jack under the a arm to put some tension on it. Now take the upper strut bolt out and lower the jack slowly. Spring will push the a arm and jack down until its fully extended, where you can remove the spring.
Once your done just jack the a arm back up and put the strut bolt back on.

Rears take some persistance
Put the rear half of the car on stands from sturdy frame points, jack under one side of the rear axle and put some tension, then remove the shock for that side and disconnect the panhard and LCA, then let the jack down slowly. The rear likely wont drop far enuff but the rear springs should be easy enuff to squeeze a coil or two and pull it out barehanded. Your helper comes in when you jack it back up to re-attach the shock, youll likely lift the body up some off the stand, have your helper put some weight in the cargo area. Bolt the shock and put the panhard and LCA back on and your done

You WILL have a hard time if you disconnect both shocks same since youll have to fight both springs and have fun re-aligning the LCAs without unplugging your Driveshaft and spilling trans fluid all over the place

Theres a trick to every trade

SDIF

Buy a Ball joint seperator $8, dont use the pickle fork.

Ball joint seperator works great on tie rod too. Very easy to use.

Run a rope through the front springs and tie through hole in a arm before unbolting the strut from upper mount and before lower a arm with jack... This can save you life.

I dont use the spring compressors. Like the loaded gun comment. Dont trust them the gun is always loaded and respect the springs. Use the rope on install too in same fashion.

sjc115

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the great advice guys!

If you have any other tips for a front end rebuild, keep them coming!

MrDude_1

no offense, but i disagree.

the rears are the easiest.

heres how i do it:

have the front of the car on the ground, and jack up the rear. place the jackstands under the LCA mounts.

take off the tires, this is the longest part.
if this is on a lift and you're using a transmission jack, skip this part and save some time.

put the jack under the center of the rear and lift just enough to take the weight of the rear.

undo the two nuts holding the shocks to the rear. and pull the shocks off.. you may need to tap it once with a hammer, but if you got the weight off it with the jack, it should come out without much force.

watch your rear brake flex line mine is long enough, but i am running a aftermarket braided line. if in doubt, remove the 10mmheadded bolt holding the hard line to the chassis.. this allows enough movement.

slowly lower the rear down.. eventually the springs will literally fall out, or they'll stick to the rubber isolator that sticks to the car... just wiggle and it comes off.

check your isolators, pockets, ect for rust/ageing/ect.... might as well since its out.

place the isolator on the new spring.place the spring on the rear. be sure to index it correctly (make sure the pigtails point the same way on both)


jack up the rear... at some point, the springs will be close to their homes.. just look and check that they're going to go in their pockets..

you can also put just one spring in, raise the rear some, then tilt the axle on the jack enough to wiggle the other one in.. but i do both at once...


once the rear is high enough,put the shocks back in. the axle and tighten the nuts.
replace the brake line bolt if needed, and you're done.


it normally takes me 15 mins... 10 if i have air tools and a friend.. the longest part is taking the tires off.... ive done this about 30-40 times no (no lie, atleast 20 times on my car, and ive helped several others).. i cant think of how to make it any faster. lol

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

thanks for the good info...ill rethink doing springs by myself then. For the rear at least i may not trust my self alone to do the front. I also dont have power tools but i can get to a shop that can...and i might as well just get help from an actual mechanic up there if im using there tools and lift...

Kennerz

Using common sense, I installed the rears the way Mr. Dude recommends last night, not hard at all.

the fronts I will have installed when I get my car aligned tomorrow, I have taken one side of the fronts off before and for me it was a pain, alot of potential things to go wrong, ( spring damage from flinging out, indexed wrong( seen it here many times)) I just don't want the headache, glad some of you have found an easy way to do the front

I just installed bilstien shocks, struts, rear pro kit, spohn strut mounts, and adj panhard - all was pretty easy -just took alittle more time than I thought - took me 5hrs vs. I thought it was gona take 3hrs

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

what exactly is "index"ing the springs?

I figured you just put the new ones the same way the old ones sat in there?

And maybe you could shoot me a PM for how you did the front struts...we were gonna pay a shop to do it on my gf's car but if its something that i can do with hand tools ill try and find a way to do it myself.

Kennerz

Steve,


Indexing refers to aligning the spring with, or between two "index " holes that are on the bottom spring perch on the control arm. if you look at the spring perch's circular indention on the control arm you will see two holes about 3/4 of an inch appart - these are the index holes, you would put the bottom edge of the spring coil between these two marks.

wish I would of had my digital cam handy at the time. I have air tools which makes it much easier, but I have done it with hand tools in the past, just I had to use an air chisel to remove the top strut retaining nut.

make sure to (have) the car realigned when your done.