Hi there. My 89 RS has a lot of "slop" in the steering wheel. My boyfriend replaced the inner and outer tie rods and idler arm, which helped, but the previous owner supposedly had adjusted the steering box which I've heard is a no-no. I'd like to swap in an IROC steering box, but I'm not quite sure what all is involved in taking the old one out and putting the new one in. I have my bf's 92 shop manual to help but any personal experiences or are there any write-ups anywhere on the process? Thanks!

 

It is as simple as taking the old on off and putting the new one on. Just make sure you get all the air out of the system by turning the wheels from side to side, while its on stands, so the pump doesn't whine when you start the car. there are three bolts that hold in on the frame a nut on the centerlink that connects the pitman arm.

 

I believe it is a direct swap as long as theyre both power steering(which the Iroc is).

 

Have you checked the centerlink (or drag link)? This piece can wear and introduce play as well, as can the rag joint. If you know the play is in the box: you can turn the input shaft and feel the play before the pitman arm moves; you can replace it or attempt to bench adjust it. Either way it will have to come out.

Disconnect both lines and plug them, vaccuum caps work.
Remove the bolt holding the steering to the input shaft after pulling back the plastic cover.
Pull the steering shaft back, it may take some effort but will slide off.
Use a pitman arm puller to pull the pitman off the box after removing the pitman nut. Car can be on jacks or ramps. The pitman nut can take some effort.
There are three long bolts holding the box in place. You may have to remove a fender brace to get to one of them. Remove them and drop the box out.
It may help to drop the sway bar (endlinks can stay connected) to pull the box out.

The steering shaft will only go back on one way, so if you've locked your steering and haven't allowed the wheels to turn it should go back correctly.

Adjusting or changing the box will alter the height of the pitman arm and the idler arm should be adjusted after reinstall to be at the same height.

There's a tech article on sethirdgen.org on bench adjusting your box if you'd like to try it first.

 

Thank you very much for the help, we'll have to try to get out and check the play in those parts this afternoon, but the idea of a quick ratio box has made me pretty set on getting on anyway . Btw, I checked on sethirdgen.org but I couldn't find that article.

 

Check the rubber "rag joint" where the steering shaft meets the gear. Like, have somebody turn the wheel while you look at it, and see if the rubber is compressing and stretching.

There's nothing wrong with adjusting the gearbox, IF it's done right. It got adjusted once, somehow, by the factory; and it's worn since then, so logic would dictate that the same procedure could be used again successfully. Unfortunately it often isn't, which is where people get into trouble. But I wouldn't just jump automatically to the conclusion that since the gearbox has been "supposedly" adjusted, that you need to replace it. I'd be looking for the slop and zeroing in on fixing it, not just taking a shotgun approach to the big expensive pieces.

 

I looked on sethirdgen.org and couldn't find the article either. Perhaps I've misremembered where I saw it. I'll search for it later this afternoon.

If you swap out for a rebuilt quick ratio box, you may want to hang on to your existing box for a while (rather than core exchange right away). I did the swap on my camaro and am on my third rebuilt. The first failed after about a month (would not turn to left), the second had excess play and I'm not completely happy with the one I've got now (tight over center).

I did, however, rebuild the box on my TA (because it leaked) and bench adjusted it after the rebuild. Couldn't be happier.

Another option is to pick up a box at a JY (about $50-75 here) and, if it's not leaking, bench adjust it and throw it on. A rebuild kit (mainly new seals) is about $30. As long as it hasn't been overtightened at the over center adjustment (top set screw) it should be alright. Over tightening, usually by some yahoo trying to remove steering slop that is really elsewhere, is what kills most boxes.

 

Extremely worn down tires and/or with feather edging from trashed toe can cause the same thing also.

So if the tires are garbage might want to get some new ones if nothing else appears bad.

later
Jeremy

 

tires are new, and were getting a steering box from a buddy for a good deal so its not worth the hassle of tearing apart the old one to fix it and/or find the real problem. She is set on getting an Iroc quick ratio steering box so thats what were gonna do. Thanks for all the info and the help, still need to check that center link out but i guess we will just wait till after the steering box is in.

-Steve

 

http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/boxmesh.shtml

Try the above for a good walk-through of bench adjusting your box (ignore part I). The article was on Montecarloss.com. If you're swapping in a used one it doesn't hurt to check the pre-load settings and adjust it a bit if needed. I would never recommend opening one though unless it's leaking.

I've swapped several, last took 45 minutes. Expect a little longer if the fasteners are original. If you need anything let us know.