Hello to everybody,

I decided to put a steering rack from 4th gen to my '91 Formula, but unfortunately didnt realize that because of difference between knuckles turning angle of the wheels decreased by half

So, now I have three options:

1) Get another rack,which is longer, to compromise old knuckles, but I dont imagine what rack can I use for it
2) Somehow fabricate knuckles that will work, but I don't know is it possible to do, because they are made from iron
3) Install other components from 4thgen, but what do I need ?

Since search doesnt work, I ask these questions, sorry if they were answered earlier

 

4)return to original steering linkage setup and sell rack

What are you trying to accomplish by switching to a rack? I have researched this and have been unable to justify this swap because of all the problems you are encountering.

 

Rack setup is much sharper. I've replaced everything: steering column, steering box. Added Spohn SFC's, wonderbar, I replace front end parts every 6000 miles, and steering still sucks compared to my wife's Toyota MR-2.

Original sysytem will never behave like steering rack, that is the problem

And I think that switching to 4thgen-style front end will solve it plus I will be able to put bigger front brakes.

 

I think you need to take a step back and review your entire frontend combo. You don't need a 4th gen frontend to run big brakes (up to 13" easily), just a larger wheel that will fit over the setup. You might want to post your entire setup, and maybe some board members can offer some suggestions. Alignment can also make or break the way your car handles. You can throw all the $$ in the world at it, but if your alignment sucks you won't get the max potential out of it.

 

You seriously think you can get a car this big and heavy to perform like a car that is smaller and lighter? They have completely different suspensions. Unless you are going to totally rebuild it with a tube frame like the T/A guys and drop in a huge motor so you can take corners at 50-60 then come out and get up to 100. I don't think a rack will help with handling as much as you think. About the only thing you will get is a better looking setup. You didn't say if you had a strut tower brace or not. If you go to by sig, I have a link to my site. I made one for about $10.

I have been able to get the tires to squeel by changing lanes to avoid the idiots that cut me off and hit the brakes during rushhour. I might just have bad tires also though.

 

Ok, thats my suspension mods:

Spohn SFC's
Spohn adjustable wonderbar (now eliminated)
Tower brace
Quick ratio steering box
Eibach sport springs
Koni sport shocks

I think I put almost everything and I'm still not happy with steering responce

Because of that I decided to go for rack

 

look into the mid 80's ford t-bird rack. You can go power or manual very easily, plus the width is pretty decent. The power racks utilize regular inverted flare on the hoses(common, so easy to hook-up) They also come out to american threads, so outer tie rods are easy to find, plus you can easily run male thread tie rods and build sleeves for more accurate length.
- that's what I'm doing...but I'm one of those guys going full frame. - It will be power for me, because this is still a true street car, meaning full power and a/c are a must.

 

So I'm going to guess that the car is semi high mileage.
Do you know how to inspect (or have someone else):
Check the balljoints, A-arm bushings, strut mounts, Intermediate shaft rag joint, excess play in the steering box, etc?

There has yet to be a good enough R&P setup for thirdgens for street racing/use.

 

For road racing and street use no R&P design can truely solve tire scrub issues that would occur. That's why only pure drag cars use them, because of how light they are. You really can't get the feel of R&P, but you can make the steering just as accurate and responsive with quality new components on the front suspension and steering system. Although the front end of my camaro doesn't feel like my honda, it has less play (yup!) and is very accurate. I've got:
New A-arm bushings, balljoints, spohn strut mounts, new springs/struts, tierods, idler arm, centerlink, solid tie rod sleeves, a STB, TDS wonderbar, checked the steering box for play (none) as well as the ragjoint.

 

I have my front end rebuild with all new components every 6000 miles, I've got new steering box also, but it's still sloppy.

I hate that feeling, when I turn wheel a little bit to the right, than quickly to the left, but car doesnt respond as quick and it takes age to follow steering wheel

 

why is it you need new components every 6K? You've gotta be kidding me. If you're wearing everything out in 6k, you've got issues.
- anyhow, the proper rack with the proper set-up is just as good as a box and linkage. Problem is that most aren't set-up exactly right and you end up with less than perfect.

 

I'm not kidding ! A lot of mud, dust and snow plus very bumpy roads, just look where I live.

 

rack and pinion gives you: lighter weight, less slop, less moving parts, and more accurate steering inputs. the complex series of links involved in our 3rd gen cars offers many points where loosness may come into play. i've heard that the 4th gen racks are too long for our cars.....and that fox mustang or pinto racks are better suited.......

 

As far as fixing the steering angles, what we did on our 'race' car was cut the ball joint mount off, cut a section of the arm off, and then re-welded the mount back on. You have to keep the geometery correct and do a good job of welding. This will give you the steering angle back. Make sure the shorter arms clear the frame/control arms at lock. Our setup has taken a lot of abuse for a couple of years, but don't sue me if you do this on the street.

 

I don't think that is the way for street car I reckon some custom bracket which mounts to original ball joint mount ear and has an ear on the other side in a correct place. Or may be the rack with different ratio is the way to go

 

Your trying to do some engineer's job with your suspension. And if your using good high quality components you shouldn't have to replace your suspension every 6k miles. You've probably got OCD, or obsessive compulsive disorder. I recommend seeing a good doctor to have yourself examined.

 

Well...after all, I've decided to go back to steering box

As for suspension issue, come and see our roads, then you can tell if I'm right or wrong.

 

do you use the Super elcheapo parts or good ones? say moog or better? even if ya use cheap ones they will last for atleast 40 or 50K miles even on the worst of roads.

 

I use original GM parts and used Moog last time. And what do you mean by "last" ? After 6k the parts are worn, they won't break, of course, but there will be no responsive steering.