Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

torque arm needed with ladder bars?

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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #1  
muteboy49's Avatar
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
torque arm needed with ladder bars?

im putting in ladder bars and coilovers on my 84. do i still need the torque arm with this setup?
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 08:02 AM
  #2  
91drag's Avatar
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
no you wont need it the set up in the car is just as good with upgrades. unless you are changing rears to something like a 12 bolt or 9" or going to tub the car for racing . plus you wont have to cut up the floor.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 11:23 AM
  #3  
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
nah im leavin the 10 bolt for now and im usin 10.5's
thanks man im glad i dont need it lol
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 03:34 PM
  #4  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Ladder bars will eliminate the torque arm and LCA but you still need the panhard bar or a diagonal link for the ladder bars.

I have ladder bars under my car and I needed to modify the floor to get them to fit. The floor pan on a third gen is lower than the diff. The ladder bars are roughly the same height as the diff.

You won't like ladder bars for the street. They'll give a noisy, rough ride. The front heim joints will also need to be changed every few years from street use depending how much mileage you put on the car.

Your little 10 bolt won't last long if you're putting enough power down to need ladder bars.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #5  
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
ehh the only real street time my cars gonna see is to work once a week and thats only 1 mile round trip. and eventually ill need to get a 12 bolt or something but it wont have that kind of power for the first season. but hey i figured if im puttin in a cage ill do the suspension too
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
ladder bars, but you've still got a 10 bolt. May I ask why the ladder bars if you're not making enough power to snap a 7.5"? Plenty of guys deep into the 9's with the stock style 3-link setup.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I had a Spohn torque arm and some tubular LCA/panhard bar. The only reason I put ladder bars in my car is that I installed a junkyard 9" diff and it was the easiest way to install it.

Since you're staying with your 7.5" 10 bolt, I wouldn't bother installing ladder bars at this time.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 12:32 PM
  #8  
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
I had a Spohn torque arm and some tubular LCA/panhard bar. The only reason I put ladder bars in my car is that I installed a junkyard 9" diff and it was the easiest way to install it.

Since you're staying with your 7.5" 10 bolt, I wouldn't bother installing ladder bars at this time.
Still got that Spohn arm that you'd sell?
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 12:50 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
It's an older design and for a 700R4 with a slight modification for a TH350. I don't think you would want to pay the shipping from Canada. You would probably get a better deal buying one from Spohn.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #10  
muteboy49's Avatar
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From: michigan
Car: 84 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: dont have one yet
Axle/Gears: 3.42 spool on the way
1. theyre free
2. eventually im going to get the car into the 10s
3. i need something to do while im saving money to finish my motor
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 05:09 PM
  #11  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Hang onto the ladder bars until you can get a 9" or 12 bolt housing to use. You won't need a bolt in housing if you want to use the ladder bars.

Run what you have for now. If you break the 10 bolt, it will be time to upgrade to a better diff and you won't have to do the suspension twice.

I ran my aftermarket 3 link system into the low 11's before swapping diffs. I only installed a 9" when I also went with a transbrake in the tranny. I didn't think the tiny 10 bolt could have taken more than one hit off the transbrake.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 05:27 PM
  #12  
91drag's Avatar
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
thats what i am doing till i get my 496 stroker built. i will switch over to my ladder bars. right now i am run what is in my sig. hope everything holds up. i have a ladder bar kit and the 9" all ready. the way i look at it im going to run it till it breaks.
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Old Jun 20, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #13  
Iroc Zzz4's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Car: 85 Z28
Engine: GM crate ZZ4 w/ fast burn heads
Transmission: TH350
i'm currently setting up a 9" for my Z28 and i was wondering what type of traction/ lift bars or what not you all prefer, i am looking at doing away with the torque arm...
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 12:25 PM
  #14  
Shagwell's Avatar
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From: Southwest Florida
Car: projects.......
1. theyre free
2. eventually im going to get the car into the 10s
3. i need something to do while im saving money to finish my motor
haa, with the new chassis(MUCH less weight) I'll be in the 10's on 17's and a tq arm. I gonna shoot for 9's on the bottle.....
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