dead spot in steering
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From: Painesville, OH
Car: 1985 IROC Camaro
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
dead spot in steering
My car has a bad dead spot in the steering. You can probably move the wheel about 1/2-1 inch either way before you can feel a responce. The car has new KONI yellow struts, Eibach springs, AGR steering box, u-joint steering shaft, and poly bushings. None of the front end components feel loose(I checked them with the car in the air on my lift at work). It was even worse before I replaced the steering box. I have heard that the GM steering boxxes have an engineered in "on center dead spot". Is this correct. If so is there some way to modfy it to be more precise. I seem to remember a company that did this but I can remember who it was. I am a BMW technician so I am used to super tight steering and that is what I want from my car. Has anyone had this problem caused by front end parts without them being noticeably worn? Has anyone driven a newer BMW and can tell me if my Camaros steering should be as precise? Thanks
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From: Painesville, OH
Car: 1985 IROC Camaro
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
12.7 to 1. Same as stock. Really I'm debating if I want to try a front end rebuild kit first or not. I don't want to spend $200+ on it if its not going to help any. Especially since none of the stuff on it seems to be loose. If thats just the way it is I'm probably going to try a DSE box or convert to rack and pinion. Does anyone have a Camaro with precise steering, or do they all suck?
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
If everything else is okay in the actual suspension.
I'm talking ball joints, bushings, tires, EVERYTHING.
U can adjust the steering box itself if its not too badly worn.
If u look in the manual it will show you.
Best advised it is best to do on a bench and/or rebuild it properly.
U can compensate for some minor wear however by making very small adjustments to just take the slack up.
Be forewarned, a red pubie hair too far and your car wont recenter the wheel without some real effort. So go very slowly
later
Jeremy
I'm talking ball joints, bushings, tires, EVERYTHING.
U can adjust the steering box itself if its not too badly worn.
If u look in the manual it will show you.
Best advised it is best to do on a bench and/or rebuild it properly.
U can compensate for some minor wear however by making very small adjustments to just take the slack up.
Be forewarned, a red pubie hair too far and your car wont recenter the wheel without some real effort. So go very slowly
later
Jeremy
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From: Painesville, OH
Car: 1985 IROC Camaro
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
It is a brand new box so i figured it should be adjusted correctly from the factory. On my old box you could rotate the steering shaft by hand about 15 degrees + or - without the steering arm moving even after adjusting it as far as it would go. You cannot do this on the new box.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Bump for updates. I'm about to replace the stocker box and want to get rid of all play.
How does the AGR box feel? Any change in play with the car off/on?
I'm torn between the 600 series box and the AGR but don't want to buy one if it won't fix the problem. Rack and pinion is a dream for us unless you feel like fabbing the majority of it yourself.
How does the AGR box feel? Any change in play with the car off/on?
I'm torn between the 600 series box and the AGR but don't want to buy one if it won't fix the problem. Rack and pinion is a dream for us unless you feel like fabbing the majority of it yourself.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,895
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
i have the same problem, i can really move my wheel around before i feel any response and it sucks! on any quick motions at decent speed the car is nearly impossible to control. fast maneuvering cant really be done with that big of a dead spot.
i also was wonderin if that front end rebuild kit would help me
i also was wonderin if that front end rebuild kit would help me
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,508
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From: Hawaii
Car: 89' Firebird / 87' Formula
Engine: 3.4 / 5.0
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / 3.42
I had the exact same problem. About a half inch of play. Really annoyed me. What it turned out to be was some parts in the steering column (my mechanic said some rubber ***** or something...regardless, something in the steering column) was worn and made the play occur. Had it fixed. Now I have no play...don't know if it's as tight as a BMW, but I like it.
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From: Painesville, OH
Car: 1985 IROC Camaro
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Ok, I brought my car into the shop today to do an oil change and I rechecked all of my steering components. Like I said before everything on my cars front end is new, but I figured I'd recheck it just in case. Again I found that there is nothing loose in my front end. I checked the box for looseness by rotating the steering shaft right before the box by hand and found that the play is in my brand new AGR box! Although it feels better than my stock box did. I tried adjusting in the screw on the cover as far in as it would go to set minimum lash and it helped some(but not much). This is the whole reason I replaced the stock box (I thought it was worn out) I heard that these boxxes have an engineered in "dead spot" so I guess its true. I remembered that a company called DSE (DETROIT SPEED & ENGINEERING) used to be able to modify these boxxes to eliminate that. I e-mailed them but they haven't written me back yet. They also sell 600 boxxes that are supposed to be nice and tight. I may try one of those if this one can't be fixxed. (they cost $600+ though) If that doesn't fix it then the only other choice I see is convert to rack and pinion or sell my car and buy something else. After working on BMW's for the last 3 years the one thing I can't stand is poor steering feel. I really wanted a back seat but if I have to buy a Corvette to get steering that doesn't totally suck on a Chevy then so be it. Needless to say don't get the AGR box.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
theres a rag joint between the box and the steering shaft.
either replace it with a new one, or you can put a solid joint there.
that will get rid of most of the remaining flex.
either replace it with a new one, or you can put a solid joint there.
that will get rid of most of the remaining flex.
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Posts: 264
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From: FARMINGTON AR
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI RAMJET COMING
Transmission: T56
Yes they should drive as good as a BMW. My 1991 Z-28 did, and I know I've owned/been around BMW's for a long time. Look into setting the preload on the bearing from the back. I bought a rebuilt box for my Suburban and it was terrible until I did this.
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From: Painesville, OH
Car: 1985 IROC Camaro
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
What do you mean? I didn't know there was any adjustment other that the screw on top of the cover. How do you check the bearing preload?
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From: FARMINGTON AR
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI RAMJET COMING
Transmission: T56
Originally Posted by camaroracerlt1
What do you mean? I didn't know there was any adjustment other that the screw on top of the cover. How do you check the bearing preload?
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