Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

how hard? (back half)

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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 06:59 PM
  #1  
sLoW'n'StEaDy's Avatar
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how hard? (back half)

come income tax time i think i might be back halfing the TA using the kit below. I am wondering how complicated it actually is. As in would it just be easier to take it some where and have them do it, if so how much do you think it would cost to have "put in". What all goes into it? I just dont want to take a chance of destroying the car. I have quite a bit of experience wrenching, but nothin like this. most suspension i ever did was an air ride setup and a coilover conversion.

http://www.swracecars.com/pdf/CATpg13.pdf

im guessin on a 1-10 scale it'd be a 13 or so?
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Originally Posted by sLoW'n'StEaDy

im guessin on a 1-10 scale it'd be a 13 or so?
Maybe a little higher.

Read the fine print. To use a back half kit you'll also need a minimum of an 8 point roll bar to help support the frame rails. You also need to have a new floor kit installed. You'll also need a new narrowed diff however using a stock width diff will still work but if you're going through all the trouble to install a back half then you're planning to use a narrowed diff. Because of how much is involved, it's beyond the fabrication range of the average back yard mechanic. There's a lot involved in the conversion.

I'm currently in the process of back halving my car to a 4-link suspension. Last month I finally finished the narrowed diff. The majority of the rear floor is now cut out. I need to do a lot more trimming then a bunch of measurements before I install the front crossmember. After that I need to install the frame rails and suspension brackets. Fabricate the wheel tubs and the rest of the floor. Re-do the rear roll bar tubes. Maybe re-do the SFC. Refabricate the brake lines since the narrowed diff needs different plumbing. Build a battery mount. At least my fuel cell is mounted up front.

Lots of measuring, leveling, cutting and welding required. I don't even know if I need to lengthen the rear fenders yet to accommodate the big tires. I'm stuffing 32 x 14 slicks under the fenders.

Back half kit $1000
Completely built narrowed diff MINIMUM $2500
Floor kit or custom fabrication
Wheel tubs
Large tires and rims
Roll bar/cage
Lots of other nickel and dime stuff.

Buying all the stuff and having someone install it could still easily cost $5000 - $10,000. Most of that would be just labor rates since it's very time consuming. Just depends on the shop rates, what kind of deal you can get on parts and how much you can do yourself or fabricate.

I need to get mine finished before May and I've just barely started.

Not my car but here's a thread showing some pics of a back half.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...questions.html
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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sLoW'n'StEaDy's Avatar
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Well in that case, i guess i can jus do enough to get me by... Spend the money differently, i dont plan to go any deeper than 10's

What would be a good setup for mid-high 10s?
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sLoW'n'StEaDy
Well in that case, i guess i can jus do enough to get me by... Spend the money differently, i dont plan to go any deeper than 10's

What would be a good setup for mid-high 10s?
SFC's, a 6 or 8 point roll bar, anti squat brackets, boxed, or tubular rear control arms, and a good after market torque arm.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 11:36 PM
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sLoW'n'StEaDy's Avatar
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Spohn) boxed LCA--- $140
Spohn) LCA relocation brackets--- $65 (same as anti-squat brackets?)
Spohn) Subframe connectors--- $195
Spohn) Adjustable torque arm--- $200 (trans mounted)
Hawks 3rd Gen) 8pt. roll cage--- $200


good?

Last edited by sLoW'n'StEaDy; Dec 20, 2006 at 11:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #6  
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Found the link I was looking for on how to do a back half. Even though it's not a third gen, the theory is the same.

http://web.inetba.com/autoweld/Instruct.ivnu

As for your price list, don't forget that the roll bar/cage needs to be welded in. If you don't have access to a MIG/TIG, you'll need to get someone to install it. Depending on how much interior that person will need to remove will vary the cost. Typical roll bar/cage installation is $100-$150 per point. It can go up from there is they need to remove and reinstall all the interior. The kit itself is cheap.

SFC should also be a weld in version.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 03:42 AM
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
also you want a crossmember mounted torque arm not a trans mounted one.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 06:40 AM
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From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
Muscle Car(Spike TV) did a back half/4 link on a Mustang.This would be another good source to see what's required.Here's the link to one of the episodes.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/sites/mu...&ep_m=November
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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I'd just go with the stuff brutal listed. There are several people on this board running in the 10's consistently on the factory type suspension. I'm running 11's with a 355 in a 4001lb rag-top, on 17" drag radials.

A back half requires a very thick wallet, or very high skill level.
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