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Note that the following was taken directly from the link you posted.
If you race a uni-body car, the use of subframe connectors is absolutely essential. Uni-body chassis’ can suffer severe flex and twist when launched. Our WELD- IN connectors are made from mild steel and precision formed to fit without modifications to the floor or other factory components while increasing the chassis stiffness necessary for a consistent working suspension. Installation can be done in half the time of other connectors. Bolt-in connectors just simply can't provide the same degree of stiffness and get looser with every launch.
I don't know about you, but based on the picture at the link you posted (granted it was for a 1st gen) and that statement above, I'm thinking half the installation time means half the contact points, which means half as strong.
Look at Art Morrison racing. I'm doing his full frame under my 70 Nova. I think he has sub connectors.
Just in case anyone is still wondering how the chassis engering subframe connectors are well they plainly suck!!!!!! I could have made them for less than $50 im throughly disappointed all they are is 2 pieces of 2x2 squre tub with som angle iron welded on each end. The catch is they charged $99.50 plus they cost me another $42.50 to ship and the shiping cost is non refundable and I will have to pay to ship them back. So it will cost $85 to send them back for that price I could of bought Sphon's. There was not much info about these out there and I will post pics later. I do plan on using them I will just add to them.
Just in case anyone is still wondering how the chassis engering subframe connectors are well they plainly suck!!!!!! I could have made them for less than $50 im throughly disappointed all they are is 2 pieces of 2x2 squre tub with som angle iron welded on each end. The catch is they charged $99.50 plus they cost me another $42.50 to ship and the shiping cost is non refundable and I will have to pay to ship them back. So it will cost $85 to send them back for that price I could of bought Sphon's. There was not much info about these out there and I will post pics later. I do plan on using them I will just add to them.
Sorry dude but that's how all the outer subframe connectors are. Only exception is Spohn which are just bent tubing and DSE which require cutting up huuuge chunks of the car. Aftermarket outer SFCs are for people that can't weld. Not a put down, it's just that they are so simple to make.
Here is a pic of my S&W Race Car sub frame connectors and also their torque arm for an '85 IROC. Installed these in 2016.
do you have any more pics of them installed, more of how the mounting pads bolt down? Pics from the side (I remember some claims of them hanging down more than others but they look like they tuck up well and the only thing that hangs down is the crossemember part)?
How do they work? Did they stiffen things up well?
I also have the S&W racecars subframe connector and torque arm setup. I have had it since 2010. it is welded in at the front and rear, but bolted in at the rocker, crossmember, and floor areas, it also comes with a bolted in driveshaft safety loop too .. and it is awesome!
I am at work now and unable to link photos, but you can see a bunch of photos of it on this page of my website right here:
So what I'm really wondering here is how much ground clearance you loose with them? They look like they tuck up tight everywhere but they stick down under the rear mounts.
Also, how do they compare WRT to chassis stiffness?
I havent measured, but I can once my car is back on the ground. hte lowest point on this setup is the crossmember midpoint. right where the driveshaft safety loop bolts to. it has scraped before but I am super careful about avoiding roadway problems so its a minor scrape. my car is also lowered 2" up front on drop spindles and 1.5" in the rear. so I am pretty damn low
