Bought Spohn steering stops for tubular a-arms (the round metal clamp on style).

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...Rear-Tube.html

Upon trying to install these, I realized, that they do not work with my UMI a-arms that I have. UMI's a-arms bolt in the same location to the frame but then they have a downward curve so these parts that clamp on never come into contact with the spindle as would happen on a spohn style tubular a-arm.

When is UMI going to come up with a solution to this to make their a-arms fully functional like stock ones?

 

Link is no good.

I fabricated my own steering stops. On the front of the a-arms I welded on a nut. I then threaded a bolt with jam nut into the welded on nut. The bolt makes contact with the steering arm in the area near the tie rod end. The trick is find a bolt close enough in length so minimum adjustment is required and there's enough threads of the bolt into the welded on nut so that the threads won't get pulled out when the jam night is tightened.

With modified spindles for aftermarket brakes, I don't have the factory piece on the spindles that contacts the steering stop on the back part of the a-arms.

 

how far off is the spindle form the stop you got from Spohn? you could probabyl fab an extension to the stop to makle it work.

FWIW, i dont have stops on my umi arms, and havent needed them

 

Hmmm.. I just thought of something... The new steering box i'm installing has new internal steering stops, do these stop BEFORE the spindle would have hit the steering stops on the a-arm, or is it vice versa?

 

my steering box has the internal stops, and honestly, i dont know where they are set at because i can rub my tires on the frame before any "stop" happens.

you could always jack up the car, turn the wheels all the way and see what happens?

 

Wouldn't it have to be while the suspension is not hanging?

 

set the a-arms on jackstands?

 

That's one of the reasons why I fabricated some stops on the a-arms. There's something called an Ackerman angle in steering. It means that the inside wheel turns sharper than the outside wheel because it has a shorter turning radius to travel.

When I turn the steering, the inside wheel can turn so much that the tie rod can over center on the steering arm before the internal stop in the box makes contact. Luckily the tire makes contact with the inner fender before the steering linkage completely overcenters. The steering stops on the a-arms are adjusted so that the steering arm hits the stop before it goes over center. Even using an S10 manual steering box which has 7 turns from stop to stop, my steering still has roughly 3 turns from steering stop to steering stop. It's more than enough turning radius for my race car.

My Ackerman angle may be screwed up because I have my center link flipped over in order to drop the engine down lower.

 

So I guess fabbing up some of these is the best solution then... Crap... I wish UMI would come up with a solution for this (wink wink).