I've got a clunk that my car has developed, I'm thinking I might have got the LCAs too tight when I put them in, could this cause binding? When I go over a big bump, the rear clunks like something is loose. I went underneath and tightened everything again and it got worse. Thanks!!

edit: oh yeah they are old global west lca's with the teflon bushings.

 

BUMP

The haynes manual has 2 different toque specs:

50ft lb for years 87 and below
85ft lb for years 88 and above

Why are there different specs? did they use different bolt? I'm using aftermarket bolts ont he rear end side. Should I loosen them up and then try to torque them to spec?

 

those torque specs don't mean squat since they are for stock arms with stock bushings

 

What would you suggest?

 

check the shocks and the spring perch welds. I had a weld break and got horrible wheel hop and a nasty clunk/pop sound.

 

I re-torqued the shock mounts, I'll check the spring seats but I'm pretty sure it's the LCAs, I just tightened them with a wrench and breaker bar. I'm not sure how tight they should be, I don't want anything coming loose.

 

Well I loosened them up and then snugged them and drove around. Something is still binding. I torqued the rear lca-to-axle bolts to 65 as the haynes manual says for pre 87, I couldn't get to the fronts with the torque wrench so I just hit them with the wrenches as tight as I could go. Guess I'll just have to get used to it clunking unless I figure out it's something else.

 

No such thing as a Lower Control Arm in our 3rd gens because there is no upper control arm. There is just a control arm.

 

Just a thought how is the condition of your trans mount?

 

have you checked the sway bar endlinks and the endlink to chassis mount. If its a clunk it will be something loose not overtightened or the bushings could have too much play. did you check the panhard brace?

 

interesting...

 

Swaybar links were replaced less than 10,000 miles ago with moog polys. They look tight still. Trans mount is energy suspension poly as well and it's in good condition. You can definately here the thunk coming from what sounds like the rear tires. If I turn left leaving a big curb the left clunks, if I turn right, the right side does it. It was only the passenger side but after I loosened and retightened the lcas now both do it.

 

I would think that there's a problem with the panhard bar or bracce. When c-clip rearends get old there can be a lot of play in the axle shafts. Push on the back of the car and try to get it to wag its tail. I bet you hear loud clunks coming from the inside the diff

 

 

Rear end was built less than 10k miles ago. I've got a zexel-torsen. You think it may be going bad?

 

Whats so interesting? Its a front control arm. How can it be a lower when there is no upper? It's like saying to a buddy, go change the spark plugs on my diesel truck, or change the light bulb from the LED flash light, or how about this one ,put on hot ice to relieve a sprain, or replace the batteries to the chem light.

 

I believe the topic at hand is the rear control arm

 

. Go ahead. I deserve it. Now I feel a little . Sorry fellow members.

 

For the OP if you can still take stuff apart kinda easy id grease n lub stuff up if you think its binding.

Id also ask the telfon bushing marker what they suggest, stock spec torque or.......

The fancy poly rubber ones make noise if not greased when installed.

And the latest fad on allot of GM boards it to do bushing with a friend.
You split the cost of buying both a stock rubber set and a poly rubber set.
Split each set n half, then install them half/half.
Every parts attaches with half n half.
Allot of good reasons behind it but don't ask me to explain at 2am

 

Allot of good reasons behind it but don't ask me to explain at 2am

Ok its 2:30am I still wont ask. But

 

You know rod ends really dont ride that bad. I will admit that they're hard on the bumps but its not enough to make me think twice about doing it again.

 

Glad to hear that I'm contimplating this for my T/A rebuild.

 

Well, I loosened the bolts again on the rear side and torqued them to 65 ft/lbs. The front ones I couldn't get a torque wrench on so I hit them as tight as I could get with 2 box end wrenches.Then greased the crap out of the fittings. Seems to have fixed the problem for the most part. Thanks yall!

 

The biggest issue with rod ends isnt ride quality, but longevity. You're not going to get a decade of use from a rod end, even the higher quality teflon lined pieces

 

you are correct there but they're really easy to swap out although somewhat expensive.