I wanted to lower my front end about 1.5 inches after i put in some after market springs that where supposed to be an exact match for the oe, with a heavier spring rate. They actually raised my vehicle about an inch, and it just doesn't look right. I was wondering how hard it would be to cut about an inch and a half off with a sawzal, and how I should do it in order to not run the spring? TIA

 

but the lowering springs...period. You should never cut a spring no matter what anyone says.

 

I cut my Springs- I got the Eibach Lowering springs and it was stock hieght in the front, so I took them out and cut off a half of a coil with my portable band saw and put them back in- do this process over and over intell you get the ride height you want. Ive herd of bad things happening to people with cut springs but I have had 2 camaros and a S-10 truck all with cut springs and never had a problem! ( just take your time and cut a small amount at a time - if you cut to much your screwed!

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1992 Z28 W/5.7L. Teal with unpainted cowl hood,18" Billet Specialities Rims,Eibach Sportline Springs, Leather int., B&M Mega Shifter, Headman Headers, Flows,No Cats,K&N,HyperTech air foil,Custome Burned Chip,MSD Ignition,Shift Kit, Billet Corvett Servo my Back License plate reads "ALL UL C"

Here's a pic of my car
http://www.geocities.com/jonnyarson/maro.jpg

" WHAT DOES THE BACK OF A MUSTANG LOOK LIKE "



[This message has been edited by BigMike 92 Z28 (edited April 08, 2001).]

 

I'd buy the lowering springs, but my monetary situation is tight, I'm sure we can all relate to that.. What sort of bad things happen to people with cut springs? If the top of the spring is flat making it mount properly, and I don't take off too much, am I really taking a big risk?

 

i'd like to know as well, anybody?

 

Id just do it whith the stock springs( dont cut too much though )- i had it done on my rs and it was fine for over a year ( and i drove a lot of miles real hard ) Ive herd of peopls springs poping out of place and stuff like that but never seen it in person on any of my cars or any of my friends

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1992 Z28 W/5.7L. Teal with unpainted cowl hood,18" Billet Specialities Rims,Eibach Sportline Springs, Leather int., B&M Mega Shifter, Headman Headers, Flows,No Cats,K&N,HyperTech air foil,Custome Burned Chip,MSD Ignition,Shift Kit, Billet Corvett Servo my Back License plate reads "ALL UL C"

Here's a couple pics of my car

http://www.geocities.com/jonnyarson/maro.jpg

http://www.iroczdesigns.com/images/camgf.jpg

http://www.iroczdesigns.com/images/cam5.jpg

[This message has been edited by BigMike 92 Z28 (edited April 13, 2001).]

 

Yes, you have to be very careful cutting the front springs. Remember that they sit about half way between the wheel and the LCA pivot point, so the car will drop a lot lower than you might expect.

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

 

What I have heard is you should never cut springs using a torch because it weakens the spring. I've never heard of not cutting them using a cutting wheel or saw.

 

You're not supposed to cut them because they are designed with a specific spring/coil rate, so when you cut them, you also remove some of the springs potential to do it's job. For example, if you remove a "clicky" pen spring and cut a bunch of coils off, it's clicker will be all f'ed up, but if you just take a little off, you won't notice - not that any sane person would do this with a pen Drop springs will have the same pressure as stock, but they're designed a little shorter through tighter windings, or progressive windings or whatever.

I've read that if you're gonna cut them anyway, never take enough off to drop it more than an inch or so (1&1/2 at most) Also, you have to have a spring that has at least one "wild" end to cut it, if both ends are tapered level, you can't cut it...

-Rich