K all here's the deal. I'm only gonna have the suspension/break questions so the Moderators don't shut me down.
[blink]If you wanna skip the long story the questions are at the bottom[/blink]

The story goes I own my 2nd Firebird and have shown all my loyatly to them and my friends f-bodies. Well it just so happens that my one friend was selling his 87 Formula 305 (I know, WTF) to pay for his '00 WS6 Trans Am. I was gonna buy it right up but my G/F wanted a new car so.... she got it. To make a long story short that bastar[} didn't do a real good job on her.

Now the front brakes scream when it's driven but when the breaks are applied notta. How do fix this?

Also the steering is ***** up. My other friend and I both found the problem with that. The bushing/knucle/whatever-its-called on the pitman side of the center like is shot. The arm moves about 1/2" before the steering moves. How do I fix that? Do I have to replace the whole center link or just the thing-a-ma-bobber?


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You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!

 

obviously you have no trouble proving the faulty parts! fix the poor thing and tell your girlfriend to stop beating on it so much!!

 

replace the pads. replace the centerlink, or whatever you said was broken (your description escaped me). they're both piece of cake jobs, and you should be able to do both in an afternoon.

 

I don't know... it doesn't really sound like the thing-a-ma-bobber, if I were you I would check the doo-hickey.

 

Definately replace the pads and check the rotors they are all probably shot, and the doo-hickey is not that much of a problem but you will need to get the car alinged.

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84 Z28 383
Stripped w/Cage
700R-4 3.42

 

You should also check the Kanooter Valve while you're there.

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'89 Red Formula 350- 350 .060 over forged pistons 232* @ .020 cam Performer RPM Holley 750 DP Vortec 1.94 1.50 Accel Coil and dist. Hedman shorty headers Dual Exhaust w/ cutouts 1LE WS6 suspension, wheels, and brakes, 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi Edelbrock LCA's & Track bar subframe connectors 700R4 Harwood snorkel scoop Eclipse Head Unit Delco Bose Speakers 2 12" Pioneer subs w/ 400 watt/chanel amp

 

Sorry if my suspension vocabulary is a little lacking! Geez. Anyway I look at the roters and they are both shot. I'm guessin heat fractures. Oh well. Can anyone tell me then what the he!! the rubber things are called in the center link then since everyone can poke fun at my discription.

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You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!

 

I think you're talking about the dust boots that hold the grease in the joints... damned if I remember the proper term... grease boots? If those are split, it's not that bad; one of mine has been split since I got the car in '93 and I haven't changed it. Just keep the car greased up.

As to the centerlink moving a bit; your idler arm could also be worn out. That's a common "wear" item on the f-bodies... and with that, you might as well replace the center link; and you could also do the inner & outer tie-rod ends, too. Scratch around the base of the idler arm, where the idler arm meets the frame, to get a "close" alignment spec. Also, when you assemble the new inner & outer tie-rod ends, get them to be almost the same length as the old pieces. Don't remove the adjusting sleeve from the tie-rod-ends until you've measured the length! This should do ya alright for one "limp" to the alignment rack.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

The center link seems to be fine it's just the pitman (I have also heard it call the master control) arm. There is a lot of play where they meet-up. I can redo the steering no prob I was just lookin for the cheep fix so I can say " See babe, the car is fine" Then do all the "real" work on it.
Anyone got a 400 SB just sitting around?

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You put Mt. Dew in the gas tank!?!

Wow, look at it go!

 

slide the plastic dust cover off of the steering shaft at the p/s gear case,check the integrity of the "dognut" coupler. this can get stretched out ovcer the years and cause lots of play in the steering,it is hiiden under that plastic cover,so most people don't know about it. while the car is up on a lift with the wheel unlocked,twist the shaft while watching the pitman arm very carefully,it should move exactly when the shaft turns. the p/s gear case can have internal play which can be adjusted out (instuctions in chiltons manual),or replaced for $200 at auto zone...unless it's a "Z" close ratio box,in that case keep it and have it rebuilt. I would also check the wheel bearings,I have the worse time with mine they're always coming loose. a small seemingly insignificant amount of bearing wear can dramaticly affect steering response.