I have a 1982 Camaro. Since i've been replacing alot of steering and suspension components, i figured i should also replace the Control Arm Bushings. I've been under there before and noticed that the holes in the control arms that the Sway Bar End Links go into are extremely worn. If i had access to a machine shop, i would be able to repair this easily with some press in inserts. I figured i would go to the junkyard and get some control arms off of another Camaro for $12 Each, Replace the Bushings and Ball Joints on those and then just swap. The problem is, i can't find another pair of Control Arms that aren't in the same condition. Is there somewhere i can buy some new arms that aren't $400 a pair? Should i use the old arms with the worn end link holes anyhow? Will 4th Gen Control Arms work?

 

how worn are the holes? slightly egged or are they really bad? you can always weld a washer over the hole.

4th gen arms are totally different and not even close to fitting.

 

They're pretty Screwed. I looked at 3 cars at one yard. Perhaps I need to go on a Road trip tomorrow. Do you think i could change these control arms in my driveway without bleeding my brakes or readjusting/packing my bearings? Would I need to get my car aligned afterwards?

 

you can replace them without disconnecting the brake lines, just take the calipers off and put them off to the side, bend up a coat hanger or something to hang them from from a hole in the wheel well, dont let them hang by the brake line.

You need to take the springs out, and no you really dont need an alignment afterwards so long as you dont move hte strut mounts in the engine bay. the spindle and rotor/hub comes off as an assembly, so no need to play with bearings

 

Well, i have some brand new strut mounts coming in mail tomorrow. Can i just use a can of black spray paint on the towers before i remove the old ones and then just line up the new ones with the shadow made by the old ones, or will the new part mean that it needs adjustment because it's tighter than the old one?

 

are they stock replacements? if they are the same exact ones, you can trace them with a marker or something, dont spray paint them, thats kinda hack.

this will get you close, and so long as it still drive straight afterwards you should be fine. But if you can tget it perfect, you may want to get an alignment afterwards so you dont wear out the tires prematurely.

In a perfect world, you should get an alignment, but if its not in the budget, you may be able to fudge it and get by.

 

Thanks for answering all of my questions. I still have alot to learn

 

You'll need a spring compressor from Autozone (free rental) to put the springs back in if stock. You'll also need a 3in piece of pipe to use in the compressor to compress the spring far enough without the threaded rod coming out too far to put the spring in it's pocket (you'll see what I mean when you get there). The stock springs need to be really compressed alot to get them back in.

Grab a chain 3ft long and a bolt/washer/nut to secure the spring to the K-member before dropping the control arm - that way the spring has no chance of flying out and taking your head off.

 

All a-arms aren't the same:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...arms-same.html

The end link holes egg out with wear. I had mine welded and rounded. ES links seem to 'fit' better than OE (Where fitment is concerned, I didn't like the 1LE end links at).

JamesC

 

The Idea was that i would get a pair of Control Arms from the Junkyard and have the bushings changed on those and then just swap the control arms. Only one junkyard near me has anything older than 1984. He has a 1982 Berlinetta, but his prices are insane. I remember going there looking for a gauge bezel. He told me that i had to take the whole cluster and he wanted $100. Haven't gone back since.

 

Can't i just use a Floor Jack to Compress the Spring? That's how the Tension is released.

 

I show the correct compressor in the following link, which also discusses spring install:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nt-spring.html

JamesC

 

you probably wont be able to get the springs back in that way. Probably could get them out.

YOu really should use a compressor, it makes things faster and is safer

 

Alright, here's the deal....... I went to another junkyard today. This one had an 85 and an 89 Camaro. On the 85, I found some nice Control Arms. the end link hole was perfect on the driver's side and only slightly damaged on the passenger side. I picked up both for $11.50 Each. I tried to remove the old crappy ball joints with a BFH like everyone told me would work, but i guess they're in there pretty tight. Guess i'll have to pay someone to remove those and the Bushings unless someone has a nugget of wisdom that i can use.

BONUS:
While i was removing the end links for those control arms, i noticed the SWAY BAR was FREAKIN' HUGE! Not only that, but there was a WONDER BAR there too! I measured the Sway bar, and it came out to be 36MM. What can i say? this was my day. I got the Sway Bar/Wonder Bar combo for $13. If i use that bar with a 19MM Rear Sway Bar, would that be a good combo, or do i need more in the Rear?

The Thing that really sucks though is that i JUST got the Poly Bushings for the 30MM bar that i was planning on installing in the mail today. Does anyone need a 30MM Sway bar with NEW Poly Bushings? I'll let the pair go for $50 +Shipping.

 

The OE 36 and 34mm fronts were coupled with a 24mm rear bar.

JamesC

 

In other words, i need more in the rear. Time to look for a 24MM Bar. The Rear end of the Camaro i got this from was COMPLETELY gone.

 

GTAs typically had the big bars front and rear.

 

all cars are different, and all driver like thge car to handle differently.

Put the 36mm front bar on and see what happens. The rear bar may be enough already, maybe not.

 

Are 3rd Gen Camaro Control Arms Specific to only camaros, or can i use control arms from a different car?

 

There were other cars that had the same ones; but I'm not positive what ones. I'd suspect, S trucks and G-bodies (Monte Carlo). That's why they have a mounting point made into them for shock absorbers even though these cars don't have those at all (struts instead). Hollander and all those other junkyard interchange books will tell what ones will interchange.

The only difference I know of among any of them, is the steering stops; which isn't a real huge deal, if you just resist the temptation to turn the wheel against the stops all the time.

 

Alright, what is the best way to remove Control arm bushings? I don't have any special tools. Is using a Propane torch Safe? I looked at some S-10s today, but i didn't feel like removing the Control Arm without knowing for sure that it would work. Does anyone know for sure?

I have UMI's performance Tubular Rear control arms/Panhard bar coming today. Is there anything i should know about installation, or do i just take the old ones off and put the new ones on?

 

If you got Adjustable ones (i hope you did on the PHB at least), just adjust them to the stock length arms to start with, them adjust them on the car, after the install, if needed.

 

Today i replaced my Rear Control Arms and Panhard Bar with UMI Performance Tubulars. The Pics are the old ones. Since i live in a Condo, i have to do this work somewhere else of have someone do it for me. This time, i took my car to Barksdale Air Force Base and used their Auto Hobby Shop. I've never done this before and it was quite an experiance. In the Instructions, it said to have BOTH wheels off the ground. I didn't do that. I raised one side at a time. It also said that you should have the full weight of the car on the axle before you tighten the control arms. I did do that. I put the bolts through and lightly snugged the nuts, then i put the wheels on the ground and tightened them all the way down. on the first side, i was dismayed when the control arm holes didn't line up. it looked like the arms were a half inch too long. I was bummed. Lucky for me, there are certified mechanics on duty there to help. I called him over and showed him my Problem. He asked me if the car was supported on a Jack stand. I told him that it was and he kicked my axle toward the rear of my car. You know what? It lined up perfectly. Man i felt dumb. The rest of the installation went well. I had to file the mounting brackets a little because they had sharp edges, but all in all, it went together well. after Tightening everything down and shooting some grease in there, i took it for a test drive. It felt tighter. I don't know for sure, but i think it actually grabs off the line better too. That might be the Panhard Bar. I left a little rubber just to see. It seems to be more solid. Sorry to ramble, but i like to report what i do. Perhaps someone can offer me another nugget of wisdom.