I read all the treads on top... they made me even more confused than I started out. Maybe someone can clarify. I have an 86 Iroc. It rides like an NYC taxi cab. Rattles, all over the road, all the bushings are shot, and so are the tie rod ends and so on. I was thinking about replacing the shocks and springs as the car rides horrible. However I am not looking to put the price of the car into the suspension. I like the current sagging ride height. After reading the threads about Moog Springs I noticed a lot of people complaining about the SUV ride height after the new spring install. If I install Eibach Pro lines, what do I need to install in addition to get proper handling and a comfortable ride. I am not pushing this thing around a skid pad, just some local spirited highway driving.

DG

 

Number one cause of poor ride quality is worn shocks. I would put your money there first.

 

Springs sag over time. Lets face it - you'd be shorter too if you had 3500 lbs. of car on your head for the last 25 years. So when folks replace with stock springs, the ride height goes back up to stock height. After a few days/weeks, all springs settle a bit, once they 'get used' to having that 3500lbs on them.

And, alot of folks actually see an increase in ride height when they install 'lowering' springs - because they're factory springs have sagged that much over the years. I did when I installed Eibach 1" lowering (the Pro Kit) - my rear actually went higher, but they settled in after a few weeks.

I'd definitely replace ball joints, tie rods, centerlink, idler arm. Get a wonderbar if you don't have one. Replace the sway bar bushings and end links. And as mentioned, it's way past time for new shocks/struts if you think they are original.

 

a decent set of shocks and struts (KYB GR2's are the budget choice), some new springs, and (depending on their condition) some new strut mounts would be a good place to start. Thankfully the tax check is covering all these goodies for my setup this year

 

I am doing the above mentioned. I am still interested in doing the springs. What is the deal?

DG

 

shouldn't need anything else special to install all of that, just make sure to get an alignment done afterwards

 

spring compressor...inner one too...dont do it with an outer mounting one..

struts/shocks/springs/strut mounts/wonderbar/subframe connectors/panhard rod/lower control arms/strut tower brace all effect suspension so just progressively do em all...

i am as funds allow it. >.>

 

Springs do not take a few weeks to settle, they will settle immediately. The suspension geometry and bushings are what takes time to settle. You JUST change springs and nothing else the car will "settle" with just a quick drive around the block

 

I will do the panhard bar, but how with not going with the lower control arm relocation brackets effect alignment and handling with a 1" drop?

DG

 

1986 CHEVROLET CAMARO 5.0L 305cid V8 MFI (F) OHV
MOOGES2227RLTie Rod End$ 34.79$ 0.00
2$
69.58 MOOGDS1049Center Link$ 73.99$ 0.001$
73.99 MOOGES2226RLTie Rod End$ 20.99$ 0.002$
41.98 MOOGK6249Idler Arm$ 58.79$ 0.001$ 58.79
Here is what I ordered.... Let me know if any of this is incorrect.

DG

 

I have a similar situation. Click on my signature links and see and read more on my 85. I felt on the Hwy that I was driving a death trap at higher speeds...wandering all over the place, so I decided to invest around 2k for the suspension upgrade. I think it will payoff down the road.

 

Ok, I just bought a Founders Performance set of lower control arm relocation brackets for the rear. Do I need anything for the front? Have any of you tried their adjustable panhard bar? Do you think the Tubular rear control arms are a good idea. What benefits will I see from them?

SEE HOW THIS HAPPENS.......... THE SPENDING GETS QUICKLY OUT OF HAND!?!?!

 

Go here and see if this helps.....

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ml#post4827829

 

I talked to Ed Miller of www.flynbye.com about upgrading to LS1 front brakes and my suspension upgrades and he stated that he did a similar upgrade to one of his IROC's and he said that I will love it. Going with poly bushings and subframe connectors,springs shocks, lca's and panhard will make it drive like a new performance handling car.

 

Ok so I see everyone is pretty happy with their products. Prices seem reasonable. I would like to also order a set of rear control arms, and a panhard bar. For a lowered car do I need an adjustable pahard bar, adjustable controls, or non adjustable panhard bar, and none adjustable control arms. I understand the adjustable panhard bar allows you center the axle better, but what do the adjustable control arms allow you to do?

DG

 

A couple of things, allows bigger tires to be centered in wheel well and being able to set the rear axle to 0 degree thrust angle on four wheel alignment (left to right).

 

Hi Dan,

Just read some of your threads.

I have a complete set ( front & rear) of springs for sale if you are interested.

They are new. They were installed on vehicle by previous owner but vehicle never

made it on the road. I bought the car just for motor & trans. Don't need springs.

I am not sure of the brand. They are purple in color. I remember some sticker on

rear window that said "------- suspension". Can't remember name. You might

know. If interested let me know. Will sell for fair price and ship at cost.

 

I might be interested those. Post a picture and see in anyone can identify them.

DG

 

So my plans is to go to C6 18" and 19"s

I basically need the adjustable pahard bar but not the adjustable control arms.

Sounds like a plan.

I was reading another thread and I already ordered the relocation brackets, which most are saying is un-necessary for anything but drag racing. Too late now. I already ordered them.

DG

 

With lowering springs you only need the adjustable panhard rod, unless maybe you're lowering more than 1inch. No need for LCA's or relocation brackets on a 1inch drop.

 

Most likely they are 'Intrax'. Do they look like this color? (See attachement)




Installed is NOT new. Good way to get yourself sued in small claims court selling something and saying this. Always use the term "like new" or you are misrepresenting the merchandise you are selling. Just a friendly tip- doesn't seem like a big deal until one day its something valuable enough someone screws you on your choice of words= there are people in thus world doing such crap.

 

As noted by Vetruck I do not mean they are "Brand New" as in still in the box. They were already installed in a 87 Firebird. Vehicle sat for @ 2 yrs. I took the springs out b4 I scrapped the car. I went to the shop and got them.

Brand is "Intrax"

Front ones have # 17-003 Front 354.

Rear ones have # 17-001 Rear 184.

I could not find that exact # anywhere online.
You might check and see if they will fit your application.
Let me know. Thanks.

 

A safe bet are Eibach Pro-kit or Sportline. I went with the Pro based on what I wanted to do and the reviews from others on TGO.

 

Not to hijack, but pics of these intrax? I've been looking for a set forever.

 

Sorry could not figure out how to insert pic.

Here is a "Craigslist" link with the pics.


http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/2227609315.html

 

Does anyone worry about bumpsteer with lowering springs anymore, or shorter sway bar endlinks?

 

These cars are not particularly prone to bumpsteer. I have had no problems. Bump steer kits are available if needed. Shorter sway bar end links are easy. Whats the big problem?

 

No problem on this end; figured those two points were worth mentioning.

The kits are available for a reason; it would depend upon how aggressive your alignment was I suppose.

 

i had the same issue. put on some sportlines and qa1 adjustables on rear and agx adjustables on the front. i love having the ability of making my car ride like a caddy or ride like a go cart. depends for how im driving. highly recomend doing adjustables. just my