whatdayasay

http://toolsandmore.us/coilspringcompressor3.aspx

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Safe, yes.

Whether it will work, I kinda doubt it... problem would be, that plate looking thing that goes on the bottom, I think is too thick to come out of the coils once it's all put together.

And, the screw is too long, it will hit the top of the strut tower, unless you put a piece of pipe or something on it, to take up some of the length, and make the extra screw stick through the control arm out the bottom instead.

Only kind I've had dependable success with in these cars is the 4 hook kind. And even those, require the spacer deal.

But it might. Only way to know is to try it.

pound

iTrader: (7)

That looks like the same type of spring compressor that you can rent from autozone. Its terrible for our cars and I wasted my time trying to use it. Luckily I only rented it and got my money back.

Get one that has two pairs of hooks like this one. It won't come with that little piece of pipe, but you can get that in your local hardware store for like a dollar or so. You really need that section of pipe to take up some slack on the threaded rod.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I have one of the 4 hook style compressors as well. It works fine, if you put a piece of pipe on the screw as mentioned above. The first style listed should work fine if you put the fork piece under the control arm, not through the coils of the spring. Dont forget a piece of heavy chain wrapped around the arm and brought the coils as an added safety precaution. My compressor slipped once, and its a really scary thing to experience.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

That is EXACTLY the sping compressor you should use. I've installed at least a dozen sets of front springs using that compressor ( rented it from AutoZone.)





See this thread for a bit more info:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...g-install.html

sweetmelissa

I was just looking at the pic and it looks like there may be a nail in the tire....

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Thanx for the passing that on - I'm not losing air but will check it out !

Those are just rotted steel 14" 'roller' wheels mounted on that car. I've got to re-finish the factory GTA wheels before I will remount them.

carattini

I have that same tool you posted (http://toolsandmore.us/coilspringcompressor3.aspx ) Use it once in a Grand Marquis but culdn't compress the spring all the whay but may be I use it wrong but it is a strong peace.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I used this tool exactly once and gave up on it. The only thing it did was ram the threaded rod through the top of my K-member and punched a hole in my frame rail. That was 8 years ago and Ive since learned the solution to that was a simple length of pipe, I still prefer the jack method for front springs

whatdayasay

I'm thinking a length of pipe could still be used with the autozone compressor (or washers). ?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

In the pic I posted you can see the stack of washers that I used when installing the spring. You can also see that there is an "airport runway" worth of space above the compressors threaded rod and using washers provided more room than was ever needed at the top.

By setting the spring properly in the pocket first ( using the jack method basically ) then inserting the spring compressor thru the pre-set assembly your already partially compressing the spring. Sure; Not much, but enough to make a difference. Doing so also allows the "claw" end of the comresoor to garb at the best place at the top of the coil and without interfering with the engine cradles spring pocket. ( MUCH better than trying to compress the spring while it's completely unmounted and then sticking it in there - or trying to bolt the ends of the control arms in place and lifting the spindle end to pivot the spring in place. )

I'd call my proccess a combination of the jack and the compressor method. Everyone has in thier pocket and this is just - by far - the best way that I've found to install front springs over the last 20 years.

whatdayasay

the ball joint nut is partially on right? Is the strut mounted at the top but not at the bottom?

i will need 2 jacks correct? i guess when you have the control arm pivot bolts in, then the spring work is complete?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

The ball joint should be completely installed.

The top ( and bottom ) of the strut should be completely installed.

Yes, 2 jacks,....... one under each pivot arm of the control arm.

When the 2 control arm pivot bolts are thru and the nuts are installed - the springs are in.

whatdayasay

so i install the ball joint in the control arm, connect the strut to the car, connect the steering knuckle to the strut, connect the control arm to the steering knuckle, place the spring and compressor on the control arm, jack in the pivot bolts, connect the sway bar link.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I also like keeping the Steering Linkages (Tie Rods) removed -or at least disconnected - from the Spindle (knuckle) till just after the pivot bolts are installed.

whatdayasay

John in RI,

Got the control arm all prepped. I have the new strut. I have the autozone spring compressor. My spring and steering knuckle is off the car.

What do you recomend that I do next? Do I mount the steering knuckle to the control arm away from the vehicle? Do I mount the strut to the steering knuckle away from the vehicle? Do I mount the spring and compressor to the control arm away from the vehicle? What sequence do you recomend? It looks like the only thing that will keep the assembly held to the vehicle is when I connect the strut to the car. I plan on doing the sway bar connection and tie rod connection last.

I will get the second floor jack tomorrow.

What length of pipe do you recomend to use with the spring compressor?

soarestransam

Shouldnt need a spring compressor keep a jack under the a arm and pop the spring into the spring perch then jack up the a arm i done it that way plenty of times using moog springs didnt have to cut any coils either

jermdm

I used the same compressor when I did my springs. It was very safe for me and I had them swapped out in no time. I would definitely use it again if I had to change springs again. Here's a link to a thread when I did mine. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...-work-day.html

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I'd install the Strut to the strut tower first. Then install the spindle (steering knuckle) to the strut, then the Ball joint (control arm) to the spindle. This whole assembly would then be hanging off the body from the strut tower. Place the spring in the pocket ( be sure to index it properly so you can see thru one of the inspection holes in the control arm ) and raise the "arms" of the lower control arm until the spring touches the upper perch inside the engine cradle by placing a jack under each arm. Raise each jack a few pumps to set the spring in place and then place the spring compressor inside the spring and continue installing as previously outlined.

I prefer to use large washers rather than a length of pipe on the compressor because I can adjust the size of the spacer as needed. I don't recall the overall length / height of the "spacer", but you can see from the pic that it's a bit shorter than the size of the socket needed for the spring compressor.


In some cases that's true..... but it's NOT possible if there is no engine in the car. In ALL cases; everything is MUCH more stable with the compressor in place and it's much easier & safer to re-adjust the jacks ( if needed ) when the compressor is used.