89maroconvrs

Coil overs up front need to drop rear down what Springs yall running?

plum92_camaro

If you have front coil-overs, why not put them in the rear?

RamIt

Chop 1 coil off the rears.
Whats up with the extreme positive camber?

PCR92

I used to be in the Mercedes game but have recently acquired a Camaro. @Ramit, how does your car ride on chopped springs?

Picture of my mercedes after some chopping antics:

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Cut a coil off the back, it will take 15 minutes for both sides start to finish. If you aren't happy, buy coil overs.

kairles

iTrader: (2)

Eibach Pro-kit front and rear.

92Annie

Hey guys I have read in a few places that should someone decide to lower their camaro that the geometery will be messed up to the point many stock parts need to be replaced with adjustable aftermarket parts. I have been considering the Eibach Pro-kit front and rear springs, mentioned by kairles, which is advertised for only a 1 inch drop all around. Is that enough of a drop to require afore mentioned aftermarket parts? I have a completely virgin car with all part being factory and dont want to start changing pieces i dont need to.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

^^ You are correct. These cars come with the suspension configured for it's stock height. 1/2" sag in the springs over time will be fine, one inch may be pushing it. When you lower these cars >/= 1.5" you will, most likely, screw up the entire rear configuration. The following will occur when you lower the car:

1. You will need a new front end alignment
2. You will need new struts that are made for a shorter travel or one of the taller aftermarket strut mounts to resolve the lessened travel issue.
3. The rear end will no longer be centered (though it was never really centered to begin with, for evidence see my adventure here : https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post6162571 ) and will now stick to the passenger side more. You need an adjustable panhard bar to correct this.
4. The angle of the rear lower control arms is now positive (not a good thing) and you will need rear lower control arm relocation brackets to correct. LCARB for short.
5. The pinion angle is probably positive now (again, not a good thing) and would need to be corrected with an adjustable torque arm.

So moral of the story, if you do not want to drop an extra $500-?,??? correcting the new lowered geometry it is not worth it. You would be better off buying some stock spec'd springs for an IROC/1LE/TransAm and enjoying the car. If you only changed to a set of lowering springs it would drive worse, collectively speaking. Senior members like myself and others here have lots done to our cars and we enjoy showing pictures but remember we have owned these cars for 5, 10 or 15 years and have been long term investments and we did or do participate in motorsports where those items are a great help.

*** In the first paragraph I said "you will, most likely, screw up the entire rear configuration" because Eibach no longer has any blanken clue how much these springs will lower your car. Years ago I called them and pressed them on how much they would lower my car, not a car, and they didn't know. They couldn't even tell me what thirdgen and what options it had that they used to measure the drop of their lowering springs. The conversation ended with the guy saying it was probably a run of the mill hard top Z/28, automatic with power windows and manual everything else.

Robbie_S

92Annie

@Tibo, thank you, you have confirmed what i had almost concluded but hoped was wrong. I dont really want to lower the car for performance but more for the aesthetics as the gap between wheel and fender well is a bit big for my taste lol. My RPO lists 4 specific springs, how do I find the proper replacement springs and complimentary struts/shocks to keep the geometry as it was intended? Thank you for your knowledge and willingness in sharing

92Annie

@Tibo, thank you, you have confirmed what i had almost concluded but hoped was wrong. I dont really want to lower the car for performance but more for the aesthetics as the gap between wheel and fender well is a bit big for my taste lol. My RPO lists 4 specific springs, how do I find the proper replacement springs and complimentary struts/shocks to keep the geometry as it was intended? Thank you for your knowledge and willingness in sharing

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Most autoparts supply chains when you give them the year make and model will follow up with engine size, transmission type and suspension package. There are also GM part numbers floating around on this site. Many parts stores are also supplied by Moog suspension products, just relabeled. When I was a manager at autozone the bearings line had Valucraft as the lowest, sometimes a duralast as a midline and Timken as the top line. But when you opened up the Valucraft box, it had a bearing stamped Timken on it. If reclaiming stock handling characteristics is what you are after you would be fine with any name brand middle-of-the-road shock/strut.

Robbie_S

Eibach Pro Kit will work without a ripple effect. It drops you're ride height just about an inch. In fact, it only lowered mine by 7/8.