Go Blue

Hey guys,

I've got an 88 IROC Z28 that i'm rebuilding and i'm starting to work on the steering and suspension part of it. I'm wanting to make the steering stiffer and more responsive and i've been buying parts that are heavier duty/better performance than just the stock parts so that the car handles better. It's just going to be a street car with a possible strip ride every now and then. I'm wondering which of these 2 sleeves you would suggest?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/q...t/model/camaro

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-Dut...53.m1438.l2649

From what I have read, the billet aluminum will be stronger. I just like the thought the the tie rods will not be in a sleeve with 1 part of it being open like the old school version is. I'm thinking that the solid sleeve will provide less flex as well, not that the other style really had much flex either, but i'll take any improvement that I can get.

Thanks in advance!

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

I prefer steel In this application, it will bend forever long before it breaks, unlike aluminum.

UMI makes a nice setup that fits properly and works, and should still be steel.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Like <86TA> mentioned, use steel sleeves. Aluminum brings too many issues with it.

Use some anti-seize on the threads and just snug (about 35 ft/lb) the jam nuts. Go wild on them and they lock up tight.

The jam nuts with the grooves on the high part of the hex are left handed threads. The sleeve will have standard right handed threads on one end and left handed threads on the other end.

RBob.

Go Blue

Thanks for the input guys. I know aluminum is soft, but I was thinking with it being billet, it might be a little stronger. And I know chromoly is stronger than steel and the car will only see the occasional rain shower that I might get stuck in that wasn't foreseen.

ColinOpseth

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Coleman Racing sells sleeves at half the price of UMI.

Go Blue

I'm not looking for show in this case. I'm looking for more strength. I would think that because both products that I posted links for are solid sleeves without a slot cut on 1 side of them, that they would be stronger than the old sleeves that need the clamps to keep them together??? I know there's nothing wrong with the older style of sleeves, but I would think these would be stronger based on more material and being solid pieces, and therefore, less likely to flex as much especially on harder turns. I can understand why everyone is saying steel, but chromoly is stronger than steel unless this particular blend of chromoly is a weaker one. I'm not a metallurgist so i'm not positive. I do appreciate all of the feedback guys!

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Chromoly IS steel, yo.

Go Blue

I thought it was a mixture of it but I wasn't sure. Thanks Drew! I'll be back in my corner with my dunce cap on! lol

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The stock style split sleeves are nothing but problems. The slot allows dirt and water into it rendering the use as an adjuster moot. Then the clamps have to be positioned correctly so that they encircle the slot. And, positioned so that they don't end up hitting the frame rail. That ends up bending the tie rod ends.

When doing your own front end alignments the non-split sleeves are great. Real easy to adjust and no issues with the clamps or even rotating the sleeve.

I've had to replace tie rods due to rust and corrosion on the threads from split sleeve adjusters (stock style).

RBob.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

They have some nice aluminum adjustable pieces but I've never seen steel ones from them. Hex steel stock not swadged tubing.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You don't have to defend why you want nice parts just because some dipwad criticizes you. Just get your nice parts and ignore that guy.

Go Blue

Thanks everyone. I appreciate everyone's opinions until I can prove that they don't know what they're talking about. The amount of knowledge that I've found on this forum is tremendous (once you look past all of the useless arguments. lol) and I've learned a lot from reading all of the threads.