Ok, still struggling to fix the "no return to center" and "darting" problems. So, I took it in to an alignment shop to have them baseline it at factory specs to have a known starting point. They aligned it with just a little toe in, however, they told me that the steering tilt pin is broken. Not sure if this could be causing the problem but I need to fix it if it is broken. How big a job is that and where is the best place to find parts? Or, is it better to just replace the column? Anybody seen reconditioned/rebuilt columns on the net? I also have an intermittent issue with the starter just clicking, could the broken pin affect the start switch on the column as well?

Thanks...

 

There are quite a few subjects on here on the topic but most involve loose bolts for the tilt mechanism. It can be that (most common) or the pin you speak of. I’m having a problem with the pin and there are some solutions for it for it involves tearing column down to fix it, which is tedious if it’s out of your skill range. I’ve also looked at shipping my out to a company that specializes in them. Seems to be around 3-400 depending. Use google to search and you can come up with lots of info. Best of luck and let us know which route you take!

 

As CKone said, depending on your skill level, it is very doable. Plenty of write ups and even videos on youtube about it. I watched a guy do one on a G Body and it was the same. However, on mine, the aluminum section that the tilt pin went into was too big. There are multiple ways to skin a cat. I got some shim stock, wrapped it around the pin, put some green loctite on it, and hammered it back in. Worked well. I will attach a video of a guy that is doing it on a thirdgen that ran into the problem with the pins being too loose also.

 

Just got the car back after the alignment which improved it but didn't solve the problems completely. The person wasn't there that said the tilt pin was broken so don't know how he determined that. As to skill level, the only thing I haven't rebuilt on this car is the steering column, steering gearbox (that was done by Red Head), the transmission, or the rear end (that was done by Randy's Ring and Pinion). I have owned the car since 1993 and found it best to do my own repair work (its still going at 480,000 miles). If I rebuild the column, I will probably pull it out of the car since I am getting to old to crawl under the dash much plus bench always seems to be easier... I will check out the video's, thanks for those. I will be checking the cost on a rebuilt one since I have too many other projects going on...

 

I couldn't figure out why the guy said the tilt pin was broken since my tilt didn't seem loose. I tried to wiggle it top to bottom and side to side but no slop. Then last night I happened to notice a bit of slop with the wheel turning a corner. So, back to the test. Top to bottom vertical, no wiggle or slop. Side to side horizontal, no wiggle or slop. Top 45 degrees to the left and bottom 45 degree to the right, no wiggle or slop on the diagonal. Then, I tried the other diagonal. Top 45 degrees to the right and bottom 45 degrees to left, whoa....plenty of slop on that diagonal... Does that sound like a broken pin as opposed to the loose screws mentioned in online video's???? If so, left or right side pin??? Finally, no way to tell about the pin at all so just tear it apart and find out???

 

The slop in the direction you are experiencing is 100% the same as mine. It’s the tilt pin on the left side of the column that wears out. I learned this on mine after tearing it down assuming it was loose bolts. Tore it completely down to find the bolts were all tight and the pins loose. Do a google search for GM oversized tilt pins and you will find some options. The video where the guy reams the hole installs bushing is probably one of the better methods I’ve seen but there are other ways I’m sure. Below is a link to another members solution, may have been mentioned above not sure. This may be the route I end up taking.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...fix-pivot.html

 

​​​​​​That is exactly what I did. But I added some green loctite just for an extra measure.

 

I actually find it easier to do the column stuff with it still installed. You don't need to do much under the dash except disconnect the wiring and pull the sleeve that holds it up, the rest of the work is right there in front of you as you sit there in the seat. The car holds the column sturdy and in place while you're loosening fasteners. If you do it on the bench or in a vice it can still move around on you.

There are two connectors that you need to disconnect and that sleeve thing that holds the wiring under the column. Depending on how you want to repair the pins you don't even necessarily have to remove the wiring, I have left it in place and worked around it.

 

No surprise that my pin is worn then. My car has 480,000 miles on it. I have replaced both the turn signal indicator assembly and the key lock/vats so I have at least been into it that far before including the plastic wire cover and threading the wires through the column. I like the idea of not pulling the column, however, I have another problem and that is the "click" of the starter that comes and goes. I think that has been the switch on the column under the dash but I have replaced that twice. Could the loose tilt pin cause a bad switch connection in that it doesn't move the switch far enough at the end of the rod? It's a real pain to install and adjust that switch so pulling the column would make that easier.

I am thinking that in doing this for the long run (another 480,000 miles..??...) maybe I should go to oversize pins. Do the suppliers provide good instructions and does the hole for the pin need to be drilled to fit the larger pins? If so, can that be done with the column in the car?

 

So, is it better (assuming you can get the part) to replace the frame(?) where the pin is worn instead of going to oversize pins?

 

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/GM/Pins/

 

Thanks all... I ordered the pins and they should be here in a few days...

 

How did these work out, This is something on my hit list of things that need done.

 

Thanks for bumping this as I forgot to come back for closure. The old pins pretty much came right out without using a tool. I did both sides but of course the left side was the worst. The oversize tilt pins went in fairly hard with a lot of pounding on them but once in the tilt was nice and snug with no wiggle. There are a couple of good videos on youtube including one specifically on a 92 Camaro. A few finer points to watch out for are listed here:

1) During disassembly, mine required locking pliers to get the tilt arm to unscrew
2) Some videos show that you simply pull the turn signal lever straight out but mine was a twist and pull sort of locking in place. However, that said, you shouldn't need to remove it.
3) Key lock cylinder has to have the lock pin removed so you can slide the lock cylinder out and allow the cover housing of the column to slide off out of the way.
4) You will need to remove the plastic wire cover underneath the steering column where the steering column wires connect to the dash harness. Squeeze the two sides together at the base and pull forward. It takes a bit of wiggling too.. Disconnect the steering column wire connectors under the dash (pay attention to how they go back together, I forgot but eventually figured it out). Once the plastic wire protector is out the wires will slide up the column easy enough to get room to pull out the air bag actuator and the turn signal cam assy. You don't need to pull them out all the way unless you are replacing the turn signal cam assy at the same time.
5) Make sure the ignition switch rack gear and slide on the left doesn't get out of sync with the lock cylinder. Check it for wear as you may want to replace the rack gear and slide at the same time.

6) On re-assembly, pay attention to the ignition slide switch that is on the left side of the tilt assy. Only one of the video's points that out and it has to be slid back all the way towards the driver before trying to assemble the cover housing to the tilt assy. The ignition rack gear and slide mentioned above has to capture that switch in the end of the rack toward the front. If not, the ignition will not work.
7) The next thing to wrestle with is the headlight dimmer. It takes about 4 hands to hold the cover in place with the plastic slide held against the dimmer rod, put the cover on without it all moving and to get the driver's end of the plastic slide into the slot in the cover on the left hand side all without much visibility. The plastic slide has an odd shape where it goes into the cover so it only goes one way. Kind of a pain to get it aligned to slide together but I used a small flat blade screwdriver to reach into the cover and guide it into place.
8) The upper steering column bearing race and "spacer" can be a pain if the spacer doesn't sit squarely on the race it can bind when trying to put the first lock ring in place (see next issue).
9) If your lower shaft slides easily the steering shaft can slide forward, that may prevent you from using the tool to get the forward lock ring into place. That is, it wouldn't compress far enough to that the ring can slip into its retaining slot. I used locking pliers on my lower shaft so it wouldn't slide forward.

Pay attention in the video below about the testing in stages during re-assembly. If you are used to working on cars a lot, this shouldn't be any problem for you to do...

Finally, here is where I am at -- the headlight dimmer is not working once I put the column back together. I am working on diagnosing this and posted questions in a new thread about it. It was working before. Might be the column wires binding it since they all go down the column....

I watched the video' several times both before disassembly and during re-assembly. This one is pretty detailed and shows you what to do if there is wear in your tilt assy frame instead of the pin. He shows how to ream it and put in a sleeve. I DID NOT do that portion of the video but if you need it, there it is. I am guessing the oversize tilt pins help solve that problem.


Oh, here is a great thread showing the dimmer switch mechanical assy in the steering column.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...activator.html

Hope this helps...

 

Chances are that you missed putting the plastic guide/slider against the pushrod as you re-assembled the column. I have done that a bunch of times when I have gone into mine. It is a real pain to get it all aligned as you put it back together.
There is also the possibility that you pulled the lever out of the switch at the switch. Those are the only two "failures" I can think of

 

Great, thanks. I do have the plastic actuator (I assume that is what you meant by guide) installed and it works until I put the column cover housing on and try the turn signal lever to switch it.

 

It doesn't show the little tab that the piece in the first picture slides in, but I would bet that piece fell off the tab when you were putting it back together

 

Well, I will flatten my seat and get upside down to check it. I did buy a new plastic slide. It has a small tab on one end that the old one did not have. Maybe that is interfering... I will post pictures of the old and new slides tonight...

 

The tab is part of the column or the plastic trim piece, not that actual slider. The long plastic slot in the first picture is where the little tab goes

It should have been greasy in the column. I always get that all over my hand while I am holding parts and trying to get stuff lined up

 

Appreciate the insight Fellows, I’ll be sure to refer back to this thread when the time comes.