I want to install a line lock in my Camaro. Anyone know of a good kit that comes with everything (tubing, switch, etc.) and is reasonable in cost? Where can I find it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

hurst. they have an installtion kit alos, don't buy it. you'll end up going ot parts store for lines because the hurst kit has differant flares. call 1-800-345-4545 and tell them what you want.

 

Anything in Summit worth while? Thanks.

 

I use a Biondo. It doesn't look as fancy as a Hurst or TCI but it's a much better solenoid. You can easily buy an installation kit to go with it.

Whatever kit you buy, you'll have problems with the brake lines. All the kits are designed for standard double flare fittings. Third gens should all use metric bubble flare fittings. You either need to fabricate your own lines somehow or buy conversion fittings. I wound up double flaring the metric line. No leaks so far.

 

I second the vote for the Biondo line lock,at $40 who wouldn't as opposed to $100 for the Hurst?I have had no problems with it so far,and did the double flare to all the lines with no leaks either.

 

What do I need for installation? 30 bucks for the Summit kit seems kind of ridiculous for what you get. Also, do you use a toggle switch or a momentary contact switch, and could you give me a quick lesson on how to use it? Thanks for replying. Any help is much appreciated.

 

The kits are very generic. They need to supply enough parts to try and suit everyone. Chances are you won't use most of it anyway.

There's only a few parts you'll need. A momentary switch. I use the one in the handle of my Megashifter. Fuse, wiring etc.

To properly install it you need to do a little replumbing. Off the combination valve are 3 lines. Actually there are 5 but you don't need to worry about the 2 inlet lines from the master cylinder. One of the 3 outlet lines goes to the rear brakes. The other 2 go to each of the front brakes. You need to remove one of the front brake lines and plug the hole in the combination valve (part #1, A proper plug either double flare or bubble flare). The solenoid doesn't come with any fittings. You need a T-fitting for the outlet and a single fitting for the inlet. Install the line you took off from the combination valve to one of the Tee outlets. Take the other front brake line off the combination valve and connect it to the other outlet on the Tee fitting. Install a new hard line from the remaining outlet on the combination valve to the inlet on the solenoid. Bleed the brakes.

From all that you'll need to know what kind of parts to buy. The closer you mount the solenoid to the combination valve, the easier it is. That's why the kits have so many extra parts. If you need to lengthen the front brake lines to reach the solenoid, they give you all the extra parts.

You may need to buy double flare nuts to convert the metric line. The kits don't give you all the parts you're going to need.

Plumbing instructions are always included with line lock solenoids. You just need to know what kind of parts are going to be required to do it right. You can easily buy and mount the solenoid then plan out the line routes before disconnecting anything.

Line locks are only required for doing burnouts at the track. All you're doing is locking the front brakes so that the rears are released. You don't want the rear brakes applied while doing a burnout since you'll heat up the brakes too much which can cause brake fade. Not a good thing to happen at the end of the dragstrip.

You roll into the waterbox and stop. Step down hard on the brakes and push the line lock button. Release the brake pedel. The front brakes are now on holding you and the rears are released. Do the burnout and when you are ready to roll out, release the button and slowly spin out of the water box not letting off the gas pedel quickly. During the burnout you should be shifting to second then to third before rolling out of the box. This prevents any major damage to the tranny if you accidently hit some dry pavement quickly. Burnouts shouldn't be any longer than 10 seconds.

 

Stephen gives an excellent install guide. BUT....if you dont have to abide by an NHRA rule book, and your local track inspection is limited to basically you having a helmet and your car being of sound shape, like mine lenient local track does, you can plumb it even easier, with just having to remove one brake line.

 

Hey, thanks a lot for your detailed description. I really appreciate it. The only thing is is that my Hurst Quarter Stick shifter doesn't have a switch on it, so where do you guys without buttons on the shifter like to mount your line lock button? Thanks again.