I am hoping to have low 60' times when I go to the track. I have lakewood lca's and poly torque arm mount. Tomorrow I am welding the sfc's and spohn lca relocation brackets. I am curious if sfc's help to hook your car. Do any of you have a before and after sfc's?

 

im just curious as to what kind of times your running with that setup. Im running one very similar and was dissapointed first time at the track.

Best of 14.3 @98 mph i believe

i think i've got a ton of tunning to do

 

I haven't been to the track yet. I will be going the 29th. Have you done any suspension mods yet? I have beat a 2000 vette just barely and have beaten stangs. I did race a guy that has a stang that runs a 13.7 and I beat him by at least 4 car lengths. I didn't even give it all it had out of the hole cause I didn't want to blow the tires off the thing. Now that I know that these drag radials hook hard I'll start lauching harder.

I think that the car is capable of a high 12. Have you tuned your carb and set the advance in the disributor? My car felt alot stronger when I set the timing and rejetted the carb.

 

No havent got to the suspension mods yet. I had a horrible time hooking up at the track, my 60' times were over 2 seconds. Some slicks will cure that problem next time i hope.

It was my first time at the track so i was fairly inexperience, i never brought it up over 5000 and let it shift on its own. I was more worried about keeping it strait than anything.

I havent gotten into setting the timing up correctly. Its a stock HEI system, i imagine the advance is not coming in early enough.
What are you running as your base?

I havent touched the carb yet either.
Im hoping i've got almost a second to work out just in tuning as i've heard these motors should run very close to 13 and almost into the 12's

the specs on my cam are .480/.480 I/E duration @.50 is 235/235
I imagine im gonna have to rev it to 6000 to achieve some good times.


Let me know how you make out at the track, thanks for the input

 

I have my base timing at 12. By 3000 it is 36. My cam is the xe 268. .477 .480 with 1.5's but I have 1.6's which makes it .508 .512. I shift at 6500. I think that with BFG DR's and some suspension work along with tuning the motor you'll be happy with the results.

 

i presume you have some work done to those heads if your taking it up to 6500, and with that much lift on the cam

 

hmmm...it should help your 60' time. But mostly who really cares? O_o sfc's are a must for a camaro. It makes the ride alot smoother and more comfortable. It makes the handling better with a night and day type difference. And its more stable at high speeds.

 

Hey , farmkid. I have close to the same setup, and it isn't running as strong as I expected. I really think it's just a tuning issue. I havn't touched my carb yet, and have only set my timing by ear. I'm going to readjust my TV cable just to be safe, also. My only concern is the JET quadrajet I'm running. It's leaking already, and I have a bad full throttle bog. I sent it out to JET so I wouldn't have to mess with it, but it looks like i'll have to anyway. Wish I bought a holley like everyone told me to.

 

There are several guys on this board that are running low 13's, high 12's with their vortecs.

farmkid, I think you will notice a difference if you shifted at around
5700-6000

My car ran a mid 15 when i let the trans shift by itself

my car is still really slow for what it should be doing. hopefully with better exhaust and tuning i can see low 13's

 

Jer82Z, what type of rpms are you turning at the end of the quarter?
I presume your still in third gear?

THanks, Jon

 

I have done some work on the heads. I have screw in studs and guide plates installed and the matching springs that go with the xe 268 cam. Had the machine shop set up the spring pressure and cut down the valve guides. I also have the multiangle valve job and backcut 30 degrees. All that plus a good pocket porting job that I did with a dremel. They flow great. The thing would like to pull past 6500 if I would let it.

 

I am somewhere inbetween 4200-4400rpm through the traps
on 25in tires.

 

thanks alot guys, gives me a few ideas on where i've got to go from here

 

My suggestions for ya's would be this as far as suspension work goes.
SFC's
Spohn adjustable torque arm,
Boxed control arms, or tubular ones

then phase two, of cheater type slicks and rellocation brackets.

SFC's are a must on these cars if you want the doors to continue opening with a powerful motor
The torqu arm, will help traction emmensly when it's set up properly, and make it drive in general much better in my opinion.
The boxed/ tubular control arms do much to keep the car launching strait from my experience.
without them, with the torque arm the car would always come out at an angle for me. once i got them boxed off.. strait as an arrow.

Just doing that, and using a good torque converter will greatly improve tyour 60'ers and the ability to control the car out of the hole

Improving the tires, to either a drag radial or a mickey thompson sportman pro tire like i had will certainly get it out of the hole much much harder in regards to the 60'ers. and the relocation brackets just add more bite!

That stuff will do WORLDs to get you downt he track at a better ET.

Getting the motor tuned right with, the proper jetting, pump shot, secondary spring, and timing, will take a bit of tinkering. but when your close you will see the ET drop, and the MPH jump up to around 104-105 at least, with good bite, probalby a bit higher if your squirlely down the bottom end of the track

Don't skimp on the rear suspension. Between tuning, and the suspension work you'll get there.
You can have a 400HP 400lbft motor, but if you have to baby it out of the hole, or blaze the tires leaving... it means nothing
the suspension work, will get you very close to the twelves if you'r tuning's close. Fine tuning, tailoring the shiftpoints properly will get you into the twelves most likely, if the car plants hooks and goes.

 

No one has actually answered the question.... My personal feeling is that they will help slightly. Because the chassis is rigid it mens it doesn't asbsorb any of the power and the drivetrain is free to concentrate on the job in hand. In the same way it helps over the bumps by eliminating body flex and allowing the suspension to move without the body...

Just my opinion.

 

Since I have sfc's, lca brackets, lakewood lca's, poly torque arm bushing do you guys think it would be a gain to get the torque arm also? What I mean is would it be worth the money to get one. I also have drag radials. I don't really think it would gain me very much. I see it giving me more of a gain had I not done all the ofher stuff.